I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

That was one of the first things I checked was my case length. The 7mm remington Mag case Max length is 2.5" I trimed everything back to 2.490" according to the speer manual. As soon as I annealed all the brass casings that wouldnt fit, I was able to full length size them and now they all fit perfect. I think the brass was just too hard to resize. Now I see how important it is to anneal brass. To maintain acurasy I plan to check the head space after a brass is fired and then reduce the brass head space by .001". I will also use Larrywillis.com belted magnum collet resizing die.Cost me $106.00 might as well put it to good use.

just a further thought; your using a belted magnum case, and how does it headspace? Most belted mags headspace off the belt and not the shoulder unless they were built that way. If you have a factory chamber, you should probably be headspacing off the belt.

Speaking of case hardness, I have about a hundred Federal .300 Win mag cases that are so hard that they ring like a bell. I tried running one of them thru a .270 mag die for the hell of it, and it wouldn't do anything with them! Looks like it would take a major annealing to make .270 mag cases out of the .300 mag brass.

As for the Innovative Tech die, if you don't need it now, you will in the future. Nice thing about themis that if you have one for a .300 H&H case, it will work all all cases that are from that family. So you can use it on a .338 mag or a .257 mag.
gary
 
just a further thought; your using a belted magnum case, and how does it headspace? Most belted mags headspace off the belt and not the shoulder unless they were built that way. If you have a factory chamber, you should probably be headspacing off the belt.

gary

Gary, My mind is going to fry if I try taking on more concepts and theories on reloading. I am learning there are a dozen or more opinions and techniques on reloading, annealing, head spacing, bullet seating, resizing neck only vs full resizing. My mind is about to pop! I am learning allot from other re loaders and
this forum. I have learned you have to master one problem before you change an entire system of doing things.
 
Re: I agree with wood

If you have the correct OAL (trim to length) and it is still tight closing the bolt you probably need to turn your die down another 1/4 turn.
 
I have a few reloading questions if somebody has some answers or theory.

#4 is there anything I can do to keep my brass shinning and looking nice, such as applying wax or a product and polish it?

You probably don't want to go thru all of this, but it works very well. Yes, I do have a lot of time to kill.

I spin my brass & polish it the first time with #0000 steel wool, blow off the case well & load. After firing, I de-cap primers & soak the fired cases in a citric acid solution overnight (8-12 hours) I wipe all cases clean by hand, shake or blow the water out. I put them in my oven set to 150°F for 30-60 minutes to insure they're dry. Then tumble them in corn cob media. For anyone concerned, citric acid is passive & will not damage brass in any way. I spent many hours researching this on the Internet. I know this is overkill & not a method most people would choose.
However, I'm never in a hurry though & have no need to process more than 40 rounds at a time. My loaded rounds look as good as anything you've ever seen. If it's not that important to you, then I wouldn't waste my time. The only abrasion on brass is the first & only time you use #0000 steel wool. Don't use anything coarser than #0000 or you will start removing brass. Do not use sandpaper or abrasives like the 3M ScotchBrite pads. They are much too abrasive.
 
You probably don't want to go thru all of this, but it works very well. Yes, I do have a lot of time to kill.

I spin my brass & polish it the first time with #0000 steel wool, blow off the case well & load. After firing, I de-cap primers & soak the fired cases in a citric acid solution overnight (8-12 hours) I wipe all cases clean by hand, shake or blow the water out. I put them in my oven set to 150°F for 30-60 minutes to insure they're dry. Then tumble them in corn cob media. For anyone concerned, citric acid is passive & will not damage brass in any way. I spent many hours researching this on the Internet. I know this is overkill & not a method most people would choose.

When you say Citric acid, are you referring to lemon juice or Orange juice?
 
When you say Citric acid, are you referring to lemon juice or Orange juice?

Neither, the citric acid in fruit juices is the same, but the concentration is weaker. I bought pure citric acid powder from Amazon. I think I paid approx. $20 for 5 lbs. a year ago.
It's enough to last me till I die, but I'm 72 years old.

It's exactly the same acid as in any fruit. What Amazon has is the pure stuff.
I actually tried generic Real Lemon juice to see how it works. I was shocked at how well it worked. Once mixed, it needs to be refrigerated or it will begin to spoil. In powder form it will not spoil.
You can actually make lemonade with this stuff, but it won't have any color
For me I discovered, 30 minutes is enough time to do most of what it needs to do.
However, I allowed it to set with brass in it for approx. 15-16 hours & discovered primer residue cleaned off much easier. I also noticed, carbon residue on the neck of my fired brass was also much easier to remove.
The carbon residue on the case neck was very slightly oily for some reason. Perhaps using a paper towel wasn't completely cleaning of the Imperial sizing die wax.
Tarnish is oxidized brass & all the citric acid does is to return the tarnish back to it's original state. Then it becomes passive & does nothing else. I've considered putting a little dish soap in the solution, to see if that makes it more effective on the carbon on the case necks.
If you buy this stuff in small quantities, it becomes a bit expensive.
If you want to try it out first, do like I did.... Buy some Real Lemon concentrate or generic concentrate. It made me more comfortable to make the purchase of this powder at Amazon.

The solution gets weaker with each use which in turn increases the time it takes to work. But the concentration isn't critical. I use 2-3 tablespoons per quart. I also heat it up in a microwave after removing it from the refrigerator. A warm solution works a little faster than a cold solution. I've never made a solution so strong as to where it didn't still work well.
Do some research on the Internet, it will allow you to use it with complete confidence it will not damage your brass. It'll clean cooper also, but if you have tarnished bullets with exposed lead tips, it will turn the lead black. This doesn't seem to affect performance of the bullet.
This stuff cleans calcium deposits out of coffee pots also. It has a lot of uses. If you're married, your wife may start using it faster than you do.
 



I believe the problem is in the head of the brass. Not sure how to re size it.
Just read through the thread. I'm no expert, but why is everyone saying that this is head seperation? All of the brand NEW brass I have ever bought for my 7mm has had this shinny ring just above the head. I know that originaly I thought the same thing. Then I started inspecting my brand new brass and it had the same shinny ring, right out of the bag. I know that you are taught when learning to reload, that this is an indication of head seperation. But on my 7mm and my friends 7mm's that I load for, all of them have the same ring on all of our brass new and old. Is this just a 7mm thing? Has anyone else noticed this?
 
Just read through the thread. I'm no expert, but why is everyone saying that this is head seperation? All of the brand NEW brass I have ever bought for my 7mm has had this shinny ring just above the head. I know that originaly I thought the same thing. Then I started inspecting my brand new brass and it had the same shinny ring, right out of the bag. I know that you are taught when learning to reload, that this is an indication of head seperation. But on my 7mm and my friends 7mm's that I load for, all of them have the same ring on all of our brass new and old. Is this just a 7mm thing? Has anyone else noticed this?

I don't see anything wrong with your brass either. I've never loaded a belted magnum case before, but when I resize my 22-250 brass it has exactly the same appearance where the base of the sizing die seems to try sizing it a couple of thousandths more. I notice that appearance after resizing the first time. I'm on my 7th reload now & the appearance hasn't changed when I resize the brass. I believe most die manufacturers will make a free change to your sizing die which will fit your chamber if you send a fired case from that chamber along with your die to be reworked. At least RCBS offered to do that for nothing many years ago. I'm not sure it would change the appearance though. Drop them a line & ask advice from the company that manufactured your dies.
I've had the beginnings of case separation before & it looked significantly different than that.
If your sizing die is resizing that portion of your case more than 1/8 - 3/16 inch below that, then it is being worked more and will work harden faster very near that spot. I would suspect the belted portion would also resist being worked as much, simply because it's much thicker there, which I think would make that portion get worked even more.
If you send them your photo along with a question about what you see, I'm certain they would give you similar input & probably better input.
There are others on this site that have more experience than me. Trickymissfit, JE Custom & bowhunthard are the first ones that come to mind, however there are many more, I just can't recall their names.
 
I believe that my brass was just too hard to re size and it was springing back. I annealed my brass and have gotten amazing results. Now the tricky part is bumping the shoulder back to -.002 . I am now a believer in annealing your brass.
 
Neither, the citric acid in fruit juices is the same, but the concentration is weaker. I bought pure citric acid powder from Amazon. I think I paid approx. $20 for 5 lbs. a year ago.
It's enough to last me till I die, but I'm 72 years old.

It's exactly the same acid as in any fruit. What Amazon has is the pure stuff.
I actually tried generic Real Lemon juice to see how it works. I was shocked at how well it worked. Once mixed, it needs to be refrigerated or it will begin to spoil. In powder form it will not spoil.
You can actually make lemonade with this stuff, but it won't have any color
For me I discovered, 30 minutes is enough time to do most of what it needs to do.
However, I allowed it to set with brass in it for approx. 15-16 hours & discovered primer residue cleaned off much easier. I also noticed, carbon residue on the neck of my fired brass was also much easier to remove.
The carbon residue on the case neck was very slightly oily for some reason. Perhaps using a paper towel wasn't completely cleaning of the Imperial sizing die wax.
Tarnish is oxidized brass & all the citric acid does is to return the tarnish back to it's original state. Then it becomes passive & does nothing else. I've considered putting a little dish soap in the solution, to see if that makes it more effective on the carbon on the case necks.
If you buy this stuff in small quantities, it becomes a bit expensive.
If you want to try it out first, do like I did.... Buy some Real Lemon concentrate or generic concentrate. It made me more comfortable to make the purchase of this powder at Amazon.

The solution gets weaker with each use which in turn increases the time it takes to work. But the concentration isn't critical. I use 2-3 tablespoons per quart. I also heat it up in a microwave after removing it from the refrigerator. A warm solution works a little faster than a cold solution. I've never made a solution so strong as to where it didn't still work well.
Do some research on the Internet, it will allow you to use it with complete confidence it will not damage your brass. It'll clean cooper also, but if you have tarnished bullets with exposed lead tips, it will turn the lead black. This doesn't seem to affect performance of the bullet.
This stuff cleans calcium deposits out of coffee pots also. It has a lot of uses. If you're married, your wife may start using it faster than you do.

almost two years ago, my doctor put my fat butt on a diet. Twenty months later and 83lb. he tells me it's time to start getting more exercise. I tell him I'm out fishing four times a week and ready to drop when I come home. Not good enough for him! He tells be to try golf or maybe even running a little bit. So I chose golf (the guy is a sadist!!). I start picking up clubs at Goodwill and the second time around shops over the last year. Woods are usually somekind of an aluminum alloy, and I found that "Soft Scrub" and a sponge does a very nice job on them, and actually polishes them to a certain extent. Well I tried a dozen cases the otherday to see what happens. These cases were very dirty, and just range pick up stuff. Cleaned them right up! I ran this new found idea across a buddy of mine, and he told me what he was doing! He uses one of the older RCBS rotary tumblers (actually two). After cleaning the brass as we normally do, he runs it thru the other tumbler with coarse ground corn meal plus some stuff Lyman sells in a bottle. Cases look like they've been polished!
I think I'm going to lay my hands on one of those tumblers this winter
gary
 
He uses one of the older RCBS rotary tumblers (actually two). After cleaning the brass as we normally do, he runs it thru the other tumbler with coarse ground corn meal plus some stuff Lyman sells in a bottle. Cases look like they've been polished!
I think I'm going to lay my hands on one of those tumblers this winter
gary

I use a Thumlers Tumbler (Model A-R-12). I think it's 40 years old now & still works great. However the rubber container is not as pliable as it once was. I had to make new Delrin bushing for the shafts. It's hexagon shaped inside. I gave up using the ground walnut shells as media. I never would have guessed the corn cob media would work better, but I only use it for the final polishing. I really like how fast it slides out if the brass. The walnut media would sometime clump a little, which made it a little more difficult to empty the brass. I've never tried corn meal before. I didn't know you could buy it in more than one granular size. It never hurts to have more options.
 
almost two years ago, my doctor put my fat butt on a diet. Twenty months later and 83lb. he tells me it's time to start getting more exercise. I tell him I'm out fishing four times a week and ready to drop when I come home. Not good enough for him! He tells be to try golf or maybe even running a little bit. So I chose golf (the guy is a sadist!!). I start picking up clubs at Goodwill and the second time around shops over the last year.
gary

You mean you listened to your doctor?!? And actually lost weight and started to exercise?
You know how rare it is for that to happen? :D

God bless you, dude.
 
You mean you listened to your doctor?!? And actually lost weight and started to exercise?
You know how rare it is for that to happen? :D

God bless you, dude.

it's getting expensive these days. I just gave away $4K worth of clothes.

It was really pretty easy to loose the weight. He had me cut my red meat intake back 50%, and lay off the salt. After two weeks I was doing about one third of the red meat intake. He told me to go ahead and supplement the difference with turkey, chicken, and fish. Have had two steaks in the last 20 months, and now I don't miss them. Lately (last three months) I've been working on cutting back my gluten intake, and been eating a lot more rice instead. Late night snacks was another issue I always have had, and now replace them with a piece of fruit. Soda pop is next.
gary
 
almost two years ago, my doctor put my fat butt on a diet. Twenty months later and 83lb. he tells me it's time to start getting more exercise. I tell him I'm out fishing four times a week and ready to drop when I come home. Not good enough for him! He tells be to try golf or maybe even running a little bit. So I chose golf (the guy is a sadist!!). I start picking up clubs at Goodwill and the second time around shops over the last year. Woods are usually somekind of an aluminum alloy, and I found that "Soft Scrub" and a sponge does a very nice job on them, and actually polishes them to a certain extent. Well I tried a dozen cases the otherday to see what happens. These cases were very dirty, and just range pick up stuff. Cleaned them right up! I ran this new found idea across a buddy of mine, and he told me what he was doing! He uses one of the older RCBS rotary tumblers (actually two). After cleaning the brass as we normally do, he runs it thru the other tumbler with coarse ground corn meal plus some stuff Lyman sells in a bottle. Cases look like they've been polished!
I think I'm going to lay my hands on one of those tumblers this winter
gary

I love golf! The best **** thing about golf is it keeps people out of the mountains. So go ride around in a stupid cart chasing around a little tiny white piece of **** ball. When you hit the **** thing it doesn't go straight and it lands in the water or off of some dumb *** idiots house that decide to build next to a golf course. Then you drop a few F bombs and wrap your shinny newly polished golf club around a tree after slamming it into the ground three or four times as if it was the clubs fault. Then you toss it in the lake.

Hey that sounds like great freaking exercise. My legs and heart and lungs are all getting great work out hiking up and down the mountain checking trail cams, glassing, and looking for huge nocturnal bucks that play hide and seek better than a blonde skeleton in a closet.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 12 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top