WeiserBucks
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2016
- Messages
- 2,833
I'd love to own nothing but USA Leopold optics across the board, but I need something that works like it's supposed to.
The arken 4 x 16 was my first Chinese scope I'm impressed for the money give your scope a shot you never know.
Compare all at dusk, use US Airforce chart.I won an Element Optics Helix 4 - 16 x 44mm FFP APR-1C MOA Reticle scope, the glass is surprising, extremely clear and bright. I haven't pulled out a Swarovski to compare them and probably shouldn't. I have Leupold, Tract, Burris, Swarovski, Leica and Zeiss in the top of the closet, maybe I should drag them out and snap pictures thru all of them for giggles.
I downloaded that chart someone posted as a pdf. I had flashbacks of the peripheral vision tests my eye Dr makes me take.Compare all at dusk, use US Airforce chart.
I would love to have all US-made products like we are ALL used to.I'd love to own nothing but USA Leopold optics across the board, but I need something that works like it's supposed to.
As far as my arken scope goes, brightness is the one area where it is slightly lacking. I'm not disappointed with its performance for the money, but my other scopes are Leupold and night force and there is an obvious difference but again, let's not forget the price!I won an Element Optics Helix 4 - 16 x 44mm FFP APR-1C MOA Reticle scope, the glass is surprising, extremely clear and bright. I haven't pulled out a Swarovski to compare them and probably shouldn't. I have Leupold, Tract, Burris, Swarovski, Leica and Zeiss in the top of the closet, maybe I should drag them out and snap pictures thru all of them for giggles.
The Fullfield E1 4.5-14 is my favorite budget scope so far. I use the Ballistic E3 one for simple holdover/BDC. The other one that I like is the Bushnell Engage 3-12 Deploy MOA. Doesn't have a zero stop, but has push/pull turrets. The S Tac that @gr8fuldoug recommended looks to check most of the boxes I'd be concerned with.
Get the Burris, set the rest aside and save up more money. If your friend is at all serious about hunting, I can't think of a $300 scope that I would be hunting mule deer and antelope out to 400 yds with much less punching paper at 600 yds and meeting all of the requirements but its not something I do everyday. If he can walk out his back door and kill mule deer and antelope, I would not worry about it. For people like me who have to wait years to draw tags, drive long distances, and spend allot of money, I would not put my trust in a $300 scope. Its almost a guarantee that he won't be happy in the long run and will end up saving his money and buying something better. Even better if he does not need it immediately, save up a few more months and add a couple hundred more to it. Then again, I am a little bit of a scope snob but not nearly to the degree of others.Have your freind put that 300 in a coffe can. then have him go to all his local pawn shops find a cheap second hand scope that works good and keep adding money to the coffe can for a better caliber of scope that he realy wonts.
I agree. The tracking thing is weird. Scopes used to not hold zero well or move in the correct increments. That was often just accepted.Seems like the problem today is tracking--- I'm wondering if it's always been a problem but with today's long range shooting-- and internet info-- I'm thinking more people are actually either dialing or checking tracking--- I'm guessing 40-50 years ago lots were just doing a "set ot and forget it" and hunting at 300y and closer and using "Kentucky windage" for adjustment