How tight the rings?

[Clovis Man]

I'm looking HARD at Talley.

Any comments before I buy?

 

[7magcreedmoor]

I think that is what Gunwerks uses on their builds.

 

[woodnut]

While Talley rings are fine, the ones I've seen are split side to side, not top to bottom. I have a harder time getting the scope "settled" in. If they need lapping, how to do it? I REALLY love the TPS rings. I've never had to lap them, and they keep the scope very well secured. Several outlets on line have them. SWFA and Bear Basin for two. I found out later that Len, the guy whose forum this is, also uses and promotes them. So do yourself a favor, look hard at TPS before you make up your mind.

 

[Clovis Man]

While Talley rings are fine, the ones I've seen are split side to side, not top to bottom.

I'm looking here and they appear to be split horizontally.

I have a harder time getting the scope "settled" in. If they need lapping, how to do it? I REALLY love the TPS rings. I've never had to lap them, and they keep the scope very well secured. Several outlets on line have them. SWFA and Bear Basin for two. I found out later that Len, the guy whose forum this is, also uses and promotes them. So do yourself a favor, look hard at TPS before you make up your mind.

Looking at TPS, I guess they fit on either Weaver or Picatinny. Finding a base gets confusing, since I only figured out there are Model 70's with short actions, long actions, magnum actions, etc. Guess I need to pull out the caliper and do some measuring.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I think that is what Gunwerks uses on their builds.

Hate to break yolur bubble but gunwerks builds nothing but loads. The hardware (rifle) is built by someone else. So are most all the LR rifle sellers, all built by some other shop. Your major LR sellers only build loads, something you can do yourself.

I know who builds them but I won't say because it isn't ethical business wise.

To the OP, I'd suspect the entire mounting platform, from the bases to the ring mounts, I take it someone else mounted the scope, not you. I trust no one and mount, lap and torque all my rifles and handguns myself

If it was me, I'd pull everything and start over, all the way down to the receiver dovetails.

I use blue loctite, even under the bases where they engage the dovetails and always torque everything to the specification provided and progressive torque in an 'X' pattern with blue loctite on every screw.

Bar lapping either vertically split or horoziontally split rings is no issue. I usually use Warne Maxima vertically split tings on a heavy recoiling rifle. Warne's have a below the base recoil lug built in which you always locate toward the front of the receiver dovetail. The only caveat with vertically split rings is be sure to segregate each half and don't mix them up when installing the scope, I mark the front and rear half rings with a paint marker so I don't.

My personal opinion is, I don't care for Zee rings on a heavy recoiling rifle (or pistol), in my view, a plastic insert don't exert enough fixing effort on a scope tube though, I have used them on a light recoiling firearm and the do work well.

Lapping and aligning the rings has a hidden positive attribute. If you go to sell the scope, a scope with no ring marks is worth more and on the downside, heavy ring marks from a poor mount job can actually impact the erector mechanism in a negative manner. After all, scope tubes are soft aluminum and thin.

I've never used 'golf club tape' and don't plan on, ever. Properly lapped and torqued rings don't need additional friction increasing materials.

Again, they way I do it and may or may not be what you want to do. Just suggesting alternatives.

 

[Clovis Man]

To the OP, I'd suspect the entire mounting platform, from the bases to the ring mounts, I take it someone else mounted the scope, not you. I trust no one and mount, lap and torque all my rifles and handguns myself

If it was me, I'd pull everything and start over, all the way down to the receiver dovetails.

Yep, pretty much. I bought the rifle this past spring, and it had the mount already on it, so I simply stuck a scope in there.

"Nothing ventured, nothing gained"! Hey, it had a CHANCE of working!

Now I'm at the point of replacing the mount and I'm trying to decide which to use. I've already sent a PM to a fellow who has a set of Talley mounts for sale, I might end up buying them and then not using them. It's all up in the air right now.

 

[gamehawker]

I have two Remington 700 Senderos chambered in 7mm STW with Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP EBR-1 MOA Reticle scopes on each of them. The set-up I use on each of them is a 20 MOA EGW for the Picatinny rail and low Burris 30mm Tactical Rings. They seem to hold real well with the recoil and with the 20 MOA rail I can dial it out to over 1,000 yards if I want.

Below are a few pictures of my twin Remington 700 Sendero 7mm STW rifles with the set-up I mentioned above.

 

[Clovis Man]

Can you get it sighted in at 100 yards with that 20 MOA rail?

 

[7magcreedmoor]

Can you get it sighted in at 100 yards with that 20 MOA rail?

Clovis, I am using Vortex Vipers on several rifles. The latest build, a savage action using a 20 MOA rail, with Burris Zee rings and the offset inserts, ended up zeroed at 100 yards with about 15 MOA left from the bottom of the scope's adjustment range. Vipers have 75 MOA vertical adjustment according to the spec sheet, and all four of mine have about 1.5 more MOA when run from stop to stop. I use the offset inserts for centering the windage primarily, so that my wind zero is as close to the optical center of the scope as possible, with the rest of the offset given to maximizing elevation. I end up with the vertical optical center giving me about a 1200 yard shot, which is probably longer than I'll ever get to use on a hunt. My other rifles don't have MOA angled bases, and zero pretty close to mechanical center. Max elevation on the turret takes me to about 1300 or so, but at the expense of possible optical distortion. I like the 20 MOA base so I can do the longer shots while enjoying the best image quality near the scope's center of adjustment. A little distortion while shooting MPBR probably will not cause me to miss.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Yeh use something like TPS or warne etc. get rid of them rear windage adjustable style leupolds they are trouble....

it depends on how you put leopold's together.
I have leopold bases and rings on my lh bdl in 300 rum holding on to a 6-18x buckmaster (the older one- not the side focus wanabee); she hit's hard as all get out on both ends, being 9# scoped with no brake. I've never even had her whimper at me let alone loosen up or slide the scope. I do only set up leopold rings once and toss them if they need a reset as the windage screws will gall if you loosen and cinch them multiple times; if that happens good luck at getting them to tighten down as they won't have much contact where they are galled. I also use blue Loctite on the base screws, windage screws, and ring screws after I test fit everything. I tighten the base screws and ring screws to about what everyone else does but give the windage screws some hell with a large driver.
I do prefer weaver or picatinny setups but if your action is drilled rather crooked as my 300rum is, an adjustable windage setup is one of few options you have.

 

[SidecarFlip]

it depends on how you put leopold's together.
I have leopold bases and rings on my lh bdl in 300 rum holding on to a 6-18x buckmaster (the older one- not the side focus wanabee); she hit's hard as all get out on both ends, being 9# scoped with no brake. I've never even had her whimper at me let alone loosen up or slide the scope. I do only set up leopold rings once and toss them if they need a reset as the windage screws will gall if you loosen and cinch them multiple times; if that happens good luck at getting them to tighten down as they won't have much contact where they are galled. I also use blue Loctite on the base screws, windage screws, and ring screws after I test fit everything. I tighten the base screws and ring screws to about what everyone else does but give the windage screws some hell with a large driver.
I do prefer weaver or picatinny setups but if your action is drilled rather crooked as my 300rum is, an adjustable windage setup is one of few options you have.

Things pan out with you? Haven't heard from you in a while.

 

[gamehawker]

Can you get it sighted in at 100 yards with that 20 MOA rail?

Yup,

Here is a 3 shot group @ 100 yards (with one fouler) with one of my Remington 700 Sendero SF 7mm STWs.
After I knew where it was shooting I bought the elevation down 2 clicks and windage left 2 clicks to zero the scope in.
I had more than enough elevation to bring it down more if needed.

Brass - Remington 7mm STW brass
Bullet - Nosler 140gr Accubond
Primer - Federal 215
Powder - H1000

The velocity was 3,480 fps with that group.

 

[Clovis Man]

Nice work, Gamehawker.

I like your setup with the Picatinny rail, and I spent all day Saturday trying to find the parts to do that on my rifle. I found that the current iteration of Model 70 has both short actions and long actions, as well as a third one they use on their "Express rifles", like the H&H cartridges.

Of course, they would call the 7mms STW an Express rifle.

So -- does anybody know where I can find a 20 MOA Picatinny rail for my Winchester?

Thanks,
Earl
Clovis, New Mexico USA

 

[woodnut]

Has anyone tried a suppressor with your 7 STW? I'm getting an adapter for mine and will try it out. I think it will be super good! Yes, sonic boom will come; but down range. I shoot a 260 suppressed and love it. Not to mention a 6.5 Grendel, 17 HMR, 6x47 Lapua too.