How NOT to lap to much

I know that a lot of shooters swear by the Burris rings and I respect that, however I'm not a fan. I always felt that they were made so that Burris could get away from precision machining the rings properly.

I still feel that way, so NO FLAMING.

I didn't know that Burris is now offshore, so I won't be buying.
 
When the so-called "alignment bars" that have pointed ends are used to check alignment they can look like the alignment is perfect and be wrong. Worst is that you have no way of knowing that they're giving you a false positive. I do not trust them. If they hadn't come in the first lapping kit that I bought I wouldn't even own any. As it is they reside in the lathe remnants bin to be used as blank material for other projects.

The best way that I've found to check ring alignment is to lightly lap them. Read the resulting wear pattern, it will tell you what is going on.

Easiest way that I found to not over-lap is to throw away the compound that comes in the Wheeler kit. It is far, far too coarse of a grit. Use Clover brand lapping compound in the 600-800 grit range. It takes a while to remove much material and you'll likely tire of the job before you can go too far, BUT it does the job with the minimum material removal needed and leave a smooth finish.

The only instance where I would not toss the Wheeler compound would if I were using the kit to lap the rings just enough to give them some "tooth" for the bedding material to grab onto. Then the coarse grit works in your favor. But only then.
 
I solved any lapping issues by using Burris Signature rings with the inserts. They provide adjustment without using a 20* base, won't mar the scope and have a lot of clamping force without excessive tightening. They are the only rings I use.
 
I know that a lot of shooters swear by the Burris rings and I respect that, however I'm not a fan. I always felt that they were made so that Burris could get away from precision machining the rings properly.

I still feel that way, so NO FLAMING.

I didn't know that Burris is now offshore, so I won't be buying.
Have you ever used Burris Signature rings? What evidence do you have that may indicate that Burris doesn't want to do precise machining on their rings?

This isn't flaming. You made insinuations of poor QC so I'm asking you to back up your claims. I'm sure some of us would like to hear your rational. If you're right then it might affect our choice of rings.
 
Have you ever used Burris Signature rings? What evidence do you have that may indicate that Burris doesn't want to do precise machining on their rings?

This isn't flaming. You made insinuations of poor QC so I'm asking you to back up your claims. I'm sure some of us would like to hear your rational. If you're right then it might affect our choice of rings.

Not taking it as a flame.

I gave gut feelings and still feel that it was for less precision machining.. I've always used quality rings and bases (Leupold, TPS, Badger) and have used weaver too. Only had to lap one set of rings and used a shim under a base on a Mauser action.

I have never used Burris rings or bases and won't use now for the reasons above. Offshore.
 
Here's my two cents worth.............. First and foremost I am not familiar with all of the machining practices or the quality control policies of "all" the manufactured rings. Nor...................do I believe that there are too many, if any, people reading this post who can say with any great certainty that they are familiar with machining or quality control policies of "all" scope ring manufacturers. I started lapping rings three or four years ago now, and once I started I recognized that there was a need for it. I have Ruger 77s and use Ruger 77 rings. Although they looked good with the ring alignment tool, the two pointed mandrels, when I tried lapping it was instantly noticed that the rings were (1) somewhat out of round, (2) out of alignment as well. I am sure that some will say that Ruger rings are junk to begin with, well I am not sure of that, only sure that the rings did need some attention. Logically speaking for me, it is impossible to machine a set of rings at a factory and then expect those rings to fit every application perfectly without any final assembly/fitting once they are placed on a scope base or scope mount of some kind. Honing/lapping with a mandrel is a good way to ensure alignment as well and roundness when fitting up rings. As for how much to lap, I use the black finish on the inside of the ring to determine "how much" to lap. I prefer to get at least 70% of the black finish on the inside of the ring to be removed before I stop lapping. If you are concerned about lapping "too" much material out of the ring, there's always the opportunity to remove the mating flat surfaces of the scope rings if that did happen. However...for me the likelihood/rick of lapping a ring too much is not too great. I have never "bedded" a scope ring, however I do see the benefits of bedding to ensure alignment of the scope to the scope rings to the scope base/s. Also since I have been lapping my scope rings, the scope marks on the outside surface of the scopes have disappeared. As for those who say that it is not necessary, there's one way to find out by trying to lap those scope rings that do not need lapping. If there is at least a 70%, aligned, lapped surface on the inside of the ring, "then" the lapping was/is not necessary.
 
Quality rings dont mean squat it the mounting surface that the rings or bases go one aren't true.
I just bedded my new all Carbon Anti XM NF rings on my 6.5x300wsm it literally took me longer to rub on the clear shoe polish for release agent than it did anything about 30-45 job
 
Forget about the lapping and bed them.
No lie or BS one bit. I have considered doing exactly that almost immediately after the first time i heard of people bedding their scope bases many years ago.
I literally said to myself:
"Self, wound it not be simple to just bed the scope in the rings VS the base?"
I will do exactly that.
 
Well just ordered two sets of MIUSA Warne horizontally split rings for use in mounting my newly acquired Trijicon Credo HX on my savage 308 10FCP. Will try bedding face of bottom half of scope rings.
 
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