how long do I need to let a barrel cool in between shots for a

Doesn't the rapid cooling effect barrel wear. Being hot then rapidly cooling with Co2 or extremely cold air cause micro fractures in your barrel of receivers? Just thought I would ask. I know you can take red hot steel and dunk in cold water to make it stronger. Just wondering if that constant expanding then sudden contraction of barrels n receivers cause structural issues??
With CO2 it should not be a problem since the temp is going to be close to room temp.

With an aerosol, that could become an issue over time because it is essentially a refrigerant.
 
When I use the CO2 I turn it off compensating for continued cooling which is moving from inside out. I try to time it so the barrel will continue to cool to reach ambient temperatures.. I just got a small infra red thermometer to monitor things more closely.

I did tests with several of my most accurate rifles to see if getting the barrel cooler than ambient vs ambient. Also compared those results with letting a barrel cool down normally to ambient. Couldn't detect a difference. I was shooting at 100 yds which may not be a valid test.

I need to get the tanks filled again. When I do I'll take some temperature readings. I can know I can get the barrel quite cold with a fresh 20 lb tank. I believe the temperature could get close to freezing. We'll see later this week.

I want to do a more accurate RL-33 temperature sensitivity test.
 
It depends on your individual tube. All but one of my guns wear custom tubes...both hunting and compitition. Shot one (presuming a fouled bore) hits the same place as shot 10. I have done the wait xx min between shots and see ZERO differance.....those are minutes of my life that I will never get back. I am lucky that the one factory tube that I am running has no precevable stress....it does not string when it gets hot.

Now, if you have a tube that walks the shots in a certian AND REPEATABLE direction, you will need to wait....anywhere from 10 to 30 min depending on conditions.

My question...if you (not you spacificly.....you as in anybody with this problem) have a tube that walks it's shots...well...why do you still have that tube??? This is LR hunting, and a tube that walks it's shots has no place here. UNLESS...you NEVER miss that 1st shot at XXXX yards. :D

Just my .02,
Tod

I respectively disagree with you. What you consider long range may not be what us "newer" or "cant afford expensive rifle"shooters consider long range. Personally, I consider anything over 300 yards "long" range for me. SO that being said, a rifle shooting 1.5 MOA or less would work. I look for loads that shoot less than 1MOA. With 1 MOA loads you should be able to shoot to 500 yards or a bit more...that being said...yes these factory barrels can heat up and cause walking which is why someone like me who cannot afford HIGH end custom rifles would care about how long to wait to cool off the rifle for cold bore shots. By the way...when I say 1MOA group I am looking for a 3 shot group with all 3 shots in less than 2 minutes which means follow up shots would be possible (at least 2 additional shots) with out worry about barrel walk.
 
I respectively disagree with you. What you consider long range may not be what us "newer" or "cant afford expensive rifle"shooters consider long range. Personally, I consider anything over 300 yards "long" range for me. SO that being said, a rifle shooting 1.5 MOA or less would work. I look for loads that shoot less than 1MOA. With 1 MOA loads you should be able to shoot to 500 yards or a bit more...that being said...yes these factory barrels can heat up and cause walking which is why someone like me who cannot afford HIGH end custom rifles would care about how long to wait to cool off the rifle for cold bore shots. By the way...when I say 1MOA group I am looking for a 3 shot group with all 3 shots in less than 2 minutes which means follow up shots would be possible (at least 2 additional shots) with out worry about barrel walk.

Who said anything about "custom"?? If it don't shoot...take it to a swap meet and trade it for another...or sell it and buy another. What is there to lose...you might get a gun that will not shoot??? If you are taking this step you are already there! This could be done for free ..or better...ir you are thrifty. Another option is another BBL. You don't neede a top of the line Krieger....just a reagular chrome molly tube will do! Arund 250 for the tube and another 150 to 200 for the smith. $400 to $500 is hardly considered "custom"

Just my .02..take it or leave it. But in any case, ALWAYS stay within yours and your guns abillity.

Tod
 
Who said anything about "custom"?? If it don't shoot...take it to a swap meet and trade it for another...or sell it and buy another. What is there to lose...you might get a gun that will not shoot??? If you are taking this step you are already there! This could be done for free ..or better...ir you are thrifty. Another option is another BBL. You don't neede a top of the line Krieger....just a reagular chrome molly tube will do! Arund 250 for the tube and another 150 to 200 for the smith. $400 to $500 is hardly considered "custom"

Just my .02..take it or leave it. But in any case, ALWAYS stay within yours and your guns abillity.

Tod

I would call a custom tube on a factory rifle...now makes it a custom rifle. Say you buy a remington 700 plus custom tube...that gets you to well over a grand here in NY. BUT most box store guns these days will get you sub 1 MOA with a factory load just as long as you spend some time looking for that factory load. AND most these guns will give you a 3-5shot group before it starts to walk a bit which means shots out to 500 yards are possible. So in that sence...I would be willing to bet MOST people looking to shoot under 500 yards do not get custom tubes and do worry a little about tube heating up and accuracy. Just my .02 cents.
 
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