How do you choose the range you zero at?

[fj40mojo]

I use a modified version of the MPR (Maximum Poinblank Range) method. Using Sierra Infinity software to determine MPR I round to the nearest zero range, ie for a given rifle and a 10" vitals zone MPR Zero=301yds and MPR=355yds. I then change to the regular trajectory mode and set my zero at 300yds, close enough and easier to verify zero when I go to the range. This lets me not have to consider any holdover until my range is beyond 355yds (beyond where most of my shots have ever come) and I can print out a range card that gives me bullet path clear to 1000yds (600 is sufficient for my skill level) in increments of 50yds. Using data from my range card I sight the rifle in 3.9 inches high at 100yds then verify at 300 and go hunting knowing I don't have to worry about hold over at any normal ranges but armed with the knowledge to shoot a little further if needed.

What do you do?

 

[Miller Outdoors]

I zero everything at 100 yards, except .22 lr which is 50 yards. I'm not interested in hitting 'somewhere' in a 10 inch vital - that's just not quite good enough - I want to dial in exact yardage using a rangefinder and the turret.

 

[liltank]

I zero everything at 100 yards, except .22 lr which is 50 yards. I'm not interested in hitting 'somewhere' in a 10 inch vital - that's just not quite good enough - I want to dial in exact yardage using a rangefinder and the turret.

+1 on the above. That is what I do also.

Tank

 

[bigngreen]

I take one shot at 100yrds measure and then move the turret for perfect windage as close to perfect vertical as I can then fire one more, if the windage is perfect and the elevation is high but under a couple inches I leave it and enter it into my ballistics program then verify. I do this all from my hunting position with hunting gear.
I used to try to sight in at a calculated high so I could shot to a certain distance without messing with stuff but I've done better worrying about getting windage spot on then leaving elevation alone as long as it's in a range. Using two spaced out shots to sight in gives me a good cold bore zero with no waste of time or ammo getting things perfect and the ballistics match much closer than any other way I've tried.
But I do not group shoot at 100yrd very well at all so for me this works best.

 

[midwesthunter]

I use maximum point blank range. For coyote hunting and groundhog huntin. I dial up for ghogs if past my pbr. Yotes come in fast and don't have time to mess with dials. But I only use a 3" above below range for both. I dial everything else but use a 200 yard zero.

 

[johnnyk]

fj40mojo,
I sight all my rifles in for 300yd zeros, make drop charts out to 1000yds and use a range finder. JohnnyK.

 

[ewallace]

I 0 all of my long range rifles at 100 yards. My drop chart is in 50 yard increments out to 1000 yards then I go to 25 yard increments to 2500 yards all distances are in MOA + from 100 yards.

 

[sniper762mm]

you never know at what distance your target may be. forget holdover or hold under. zero for 100 yards and have data for comeups at longer distances, then dial your scope accordingly.

 

[kcebcj]

I use a modified version of the MPR (Maximum Poinblank Range) method. Using Sierra Infinity software to determine MPR I round to the nearest zero range, ie for a given rifle and a 10" vitals zone MPR Zero=301yds and MPR=355yds. I then change to the regular trajectory mode and set my zero at 300yds, close enough and easier to verify zero when I go to the range. This lets me not have to consider any holdover until my range is beyond 355yds (beyond where most of my shots have ever come) and I can print out a range card that gives me bullet path clear to 1000yds (600 is sufficient for my skill level) in increments of 50yds. Using data from my range card I sight the rifle in 3.9 inches high at 100yds then verify at 300 and go hunting knowing I don't have to worry about hold over at any normal ranges but armed with the knowledge to shoot a little further if needed.

What do you do?

I do almost exactly what you do. I use a 8" vital zone and determine the rifles zero (250 yards at present)to stay within that zone. I use Exbal to do the calcs and to see where it wants to be at 100 yards. That's where I make most all adjustments then build the range card after I have verified the rifle out to 750 yards. Most all the animals I have taken have been within the MPR.

I live where I hunt and have the ability to shoot out to 1000+ yards from my back door. It's the setting of the targets that's the hard part. I have a 100 yard target that I use from the front deck.

 

[azsugarbear]

200 yd. zero. For most of my rifles, this puts me at 1.25 to 1.8 inches high at 100 yds. Anything above 200, I dial up and hold for wind.

 

[fj40mojo]

I do almost exactly what you do. I use a 8" vital zone and determine the rifles zero (250 yards at present)to stay within that zone. I use Exbal to do the calcs and to see where it wants to be at 100 yards. That's where I make most all adjustments then build the range card after I have verified the rifle out to 750 yards. Most all the animals I have taken have been within the MPR.

I live where I hunt and have the ability to shoot out to 1000+ yards from my back door. It's the setting of the targets that's the hard part. I have a 100 yard target that I use from the front deck.

kcebcj,

Where in ID, I'm in Boise. We should shoot together.

 

[SBruce]

Depends on how "flat shooting" the round is, but I'll try to keep the bullet within 3 inches of point of aim. Most modern centerfire rounds this means 250 to 300 yd zero at my altitude.

This way, anything under 300 to 350 (depending on cartridge) is usually "hold on hair". Targets beyond 350 need to be dialed for or use the reticle for hold over/windage.

When I say hold on hair, I don't just hold center for every shot. I'll try to judge/measure the distance if time allows and hold low or high (still on hair) left or right accounting for some windage but still on the target. This usually eliminates the overshot. Most misses at closer ranges by most people seem to be over or high. This also gives me the opportunity for quick shots when I don't have time to dial in the range, out to 350 anyway.

 

[fj40mojo]

Depends on how "flat shooting" the round is, but I'll try to keep the bullet within 3 inches of point of aim. Most modern centerfire rounds this means 250 to 300 yd zero at my altitude.

This way, anything under 300 to 350 (depending on cartridge) is usually "hold on hair". Targets beyond 350 need to be dialed for or use the reticle for hold over/windage.

When I say hold on hair, I don't just hold center for every shot. I'll try to judge/measure the distance if time allows and hold low or high (still on hair) left or right accounting for some windage but still on the target. This usually eliminates the overshot. Most misses at closer ranges by most people seem to be over or high. This also gives me the opportunity for quick shots when I don't have time to dial in the range, out to 350 anyway.

+1, sounds to me like we are on the same sheet of music.

 

[brentc]

You could easily zero the scope at 100. Reference this as the zero on your dial and then run the dial up to your 300 yard MOA mark for hunting.

This will give you the ability to use your mpbr to 300 or so, and then if a longer shot presents you could dial from there.

Personal preference would keep me from marking my zero at anything other than 100.