Hornady concentricity tool probblem

[OrionsStar]

I have the concentricity tool, but I don't use it anymore. I found that, as I start to seat my bullet, I bump it with the press, turn the case (@ 5 times ) before the bullet is fully seated, my concentricity stays within the 0.002 tolerance. Additionally, I took the plunge and bought the Redding Competition Match Die Set. No turning the brass during the seating process. When I set the round into the concentricity tool, it doesn't move; just sits there and quivers a bit. Expensive die set, but well worth it to me in terms of overall cartridge uniformity. So easy to make all the parameters consistent.

This is the same OCD process I use. The neck turn first after I expand/uniform the necks with Sinclair tools. Then I use the reading type S dies and when seating I partially seat and turn 4 times with good success . I do have the Hornady concentricity tool as well. Don't use it much at all. I will look deeper into the long range grouping due to the neck tension change of centering the bulls with the tool. Did not think of that potential issue. Jim

 

[OrionsStar]

Generally,I have found that turning the case to achieve low bullet run outs is a possible indication that the seating plug is mismatched to the bullet, and/or the dyes seating stem is out of alignment. I have found that placing a small rubber o-ring under the seating stem lock nut allows enough give for the seating stem to self align and achieve very low runouts without having to turn the case.

OK! I'm in! Heading out for a "o" ring set. Thanks for the tip!

Jim

 

[J E Custom]

You are right about there being something incorrect with my process. I did gauge a couple of rounds where there was .005 thousandths total runout. That's when I noticed that the nylon on the end of the jacking screw was flattening out and damaging the bullet. I got a good idea from one of the responses about turning the bullet as you seat it. What I have noticed with this round, 35 Whelen, is that every so often we will get a flier. The barrel is a bit wispy and it heats up quite quickly, thought that it was moving due to the heat. The rifles (have two 35 Whelens) shoot good enough for the type of hunting that we do, it's just that there's not any such thing as a rifle "shooting good enough" for me. That's one of the reasons that I was checking the loaded rounds and checking for concentricity. It did prove to show that the rounds were not concentric. I did find some withing a .002 thousandths runout and they were easily corrected. It appears that I have some work to do.

Don't feel bad, We all have problems time to time (If we admit it)and these post help many times.

I am also one of those that are never satisfied, and are continually looking for improvements. I also build rifles and get upset when I hear a fellow smith say "That's close enough" or It'll be fine, or It's OK.

J E CUSTOM

 

[rharfo]

I have been using this tool for years. I have not had this issue with mine. One thing I will assure you, if you contact Hornady regarding your problem they will make it right. Their customer service is top tier. Call the 1-800 # and they will certainly send you a replacement part at no cost.

What cape cove said.... love mine

 

[30BR]

[QUOTE=" what have you done to remedy the problem.[/QUOTE]
I threw mine out.

 

[Greyfox]

I have both the Hornady and RCBS tool which has multi-capability including the ability to check just neck run out as well. While I mostly use the Hornady for its speed and convenience, if runouts are high, I will immediately check the sized brass for neck run out to isolate where the issue lies. If the necks display runout, generally, the loaded bullet will also.

 

[Alibiiv]

[QUOTE=" what have you done to remedy the problem.

I threw mine out.[/QUOTE]

Presently I have a couple of solutions. The first is that I called the factory and the factory (Hornady) is sending out a new jack screw. Customer service with Hornady was fantastic. I think that the same thing is going to happen because I believe there's an engineering flaw in the tool, but will give it a try. The tool is a good concept, just needs tweeking. I'm thinking of super gluing a piece of polystyrene plastic in place of the nylon, or over the nylon on the new jacking screw before I even use the tool. I rebuild kayaks and have some old hull material (polystyrene) kicking around. In looking at the tool itself, I may just drill out the existing jack screw and retap it to 1/4-28 thread and "then" glue a piece of polystyrene/nylon to the tip of the 1/4-28 screw. There will be more surface area that contacts the bullet when you jack a bullet over. As I stated I believe the concept is good, it just needs tweeking.

 

[30BR]

I saw ZERO improvement in my groups using it so out it went.

 

[Alibiiv]

Don't feel bad, We all have problems time to time (If we admit it)and these post help many times.

I am also one of those that are never satisfied, and are continually looking for improvements. I also build rifles and get upset when I hear a fellow smith say "That's close enough" or It'll be fine, or It's OK.

J E CUSTOM

Thanks I know it happens. I am a perfectionist not to a fault, but close to it. I only wish that I could build rifles. I used to build precision plastic injection molds, liked the work but hated being cooped up and going to the same building every day to work. When I first started mold making the work was challenging and intriguing (all the mating parts had to be within .0005 thousandths), however after a while it lost its glamour. If I were building rifles, it would like doing my hobby every day. I found a career in LE (30yrs) to also be challenging and intriguing, and....I wasn't cooped up in the same place every day. As for these posts, they are the finest and best thing that I could ever have found. I was stumbling around looking for data on the .270 AI, Googled ".270 AI" and found a reference thread to this site. From there is was all in, and I have been here reading ever since. After 57 years of reloading I "thought" that I knew quite a bit about reloading, then I started reading threads about turning case necks, reaming out case necks and then annealing cases. A whole new ballgame! If I get stuck in some way I will post a thread and either will get an answer or get a reference to another place where I can find an answer.

 

[J E Custom]

Remember, it is a tool for measuring run out and identifying a loading problem, is realy not made for excessive pressure. Even though that's the reason I bought mine . In fact the Hornady was the first one i bought, but i couldn't believe how bad/inconsistent my re loads were. So I wanted something more precise and bough the Sinclair tool with a .0001 dial indicator. (I like the dial over the digital because I can see small changes better). https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...s/sinclair-concentricity-gauge-prod37479.aspx

I measure all of my fired cases on the Sinclair first to assure there quality and straightness. then if I need to straighten any cartridges after loading i use the Hornady.

J E CUSTOM

 

[COBrad]

I bought an rcbs runout tool and dial indicator years ago. I got a lot more particular about neck runout, and especially neck thickness variations. If I'm loading for a rifle I want, and expect, around half minute or better accuracy from I turn necks enough to get the high side. While I'm at it I adjust for no more than .001 total neck thickness variations. You only have to neck turn once. I cull any that are over .003 and use them for tool adjustments. I also use Lapua and Norma brass when possible. Lapua is the best I've found, along with RWS. I use Redding comp seaters and type s bushing dies. My reloads are pretty consistently within .002 bullet runout.

 

[spladi]

I've got an RCBS Rockchucker press, RCBS dies (35 Whelen) and I think that I have some brass issues, its Hornady unfired brass. Everyone says that Hornady brass is junk, however no one makes 35 Whelen brass. I'm not shooting long range, most of my shooting is close, however there's a possibility for a long shot. We've been shooting at 300 yards for fun, and just trying to get the rifles to shoot as good as possible. Our hunting is done at much closer distances. I'm working on getting a case neck turning tool, just so many options. I already have a Forster original trimmer, the case neck turning attachment looks good, then there's Sinclair and K&M . And then there's lots of opinions, that I really appreciate, then there's the budget! I'm getting a rifle built right now. It's going to be $175 for hydroform dies and then there's a set of custom dies, probably Hornady

FWIW........fact is I have used Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass with great success, coming in 1st. 2nd. and rarely 3rd. place at a 2,3, and 500 yd match. Primer pockets are tight, and I have 10 plus firings on the cases I am using. Are they like Lapua brass? NO but they are very usable, certainly not junk and are very affordable.