What are you gonna do if the screw holes are not true to the centerline of the action or the action face isn't square to the action raceway? Throw the action away.
Help with scope windage issue
- Thread starter Rmclennan
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John Klingenberg
Well-Known Member
Yes actually. If I bought a lemon I'd return it as a lemon to the manufacturer for a refund. The ring flip was just an idea to try. Or he could go to a more standard mount that has windage adjustment. Sometimes you get away with re-drilling to a larger screw but you'd have to mill the hole first (expensive machine time) because even a stub #28 (8-40) drill will walk and it's never perfectly round, you have a remnant of the old hole. If you have to move the hole completely who wants a swiss cheese receiver. If its so far off thats he's 25 moa or more out then yes I'd have words with the manufacturer. That rifle's not cheap. You may settle for a sub product but I wont. I worked hard for my money. No disrespect to your knowledge/experience.
No disrespect taken, like I said I bed even my NF rings. I can guarantee you just about every single factory action out there has some kind of misalignment and probably some customs to so no matter the quality of the rings it can't make up for that.
Rmclennan
Member
Update, I rechecked everything again, flipped the rear ring and base 180 degrees ( every pic I could find of these rings had them that way so what the hell ) rechecked with the alignment bars in the lap kit, everything looks good. Remounted the scope, tryed out one of the laser bore sighters that go in the chamber like a round, also recentered the scope buy counting clicks ( 196 from full left to full right if anyone was wondering, brought it back 98 clicks to center) then adjusted to the laser dot. I'm alot closer to center on the scope now then it was. Not going to be able to shoot it for a week or so because of work and family stuff ( have to drive an hour and a half to shoot ) but looks like I've got it semi figured out. If it's still way off when shot then I'm going to try to bed the rings ( gana practice on a junk scope and rings I have) last thing I want to do is get another set of rings, **** things are near a 100 bucks. Dont have that to spend at the moment. Any way, thank you all for all your help and I'll let you know what happens.
Rmclennan
Member
L.Sherm , what do you normally bed your rings with ? Most info I've seen on doing it looks like everyone uses j.b.weld
you can use Devcon, marintex or JB weld.just scuff up the inside of the rings and when your done I mark on the inside of the rings F for front and R for rear and an arrow for the direction with a sharpie so if I ever take the scope off I know how they should go back.
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FYI from Talley's FAQ on their website.
We highly advise against lapping our steel rings. Since they are a vertically split ring, lapping can knock them out of round.
Our Picatinny rings, although horizontal split, do not need lapped either. They are a match grade ring and are perfectly round when they come off the machine.
Note: If you lap any Talley rings, it will void any return policy since the mounts have been modified.
- Can I lap Talley mounts?
We highly advise against lapping our steel rings. Since they are a vertically split ring, lapping can knock them out of round.
Our Picatinny rings, although horizontal split, do not need lapped either. They are a match grade ring and are perfectly round when they come off the machine.
Note: If you lap any Talley rings, it will void any return policy since the mounts have been modified.
Old days
Member
Hi been following this thread, what do you mean by Lapping, not a term I'm familiar with in mounting a scope.
Old Days , They make a straight bar of the same diameter as the scope tube you place this in the scope rings first to help you get them aligned when you are putting them on your rifle receiver . Once you have the rings mounted you then put some lapping compound ( gritty grinding compound ) in the rings then the bar . Put the ring caps on only tight enough to have some resistance on the bar you then move the bar back and forth as well as side to side at the same time to grind the rings true to the bar and thus each other . Sorry if I made this explanation sound childish . Any more a lot of people just use a small amount of bedding compound in the rings and a good amount of release agent on the scope tube and fill in the small gaps and slight miss-alignment between the scope and rings an thus give the rings a good grip on the scope without harming the scope
Sheldon Root
Member
I think you might want to check the Spec's of the scope. There may not be enough adjustment to correct the movement you need at 25 yds. The spec' for the scope only allow 1.2 at 100 yds. You would need to move the adjustment X 4 at 25 yds. Just move the target to 100 yds and try it there.
Rmclennan
Member
Ok, finally got a chance to get the rifle bore sighted and did some shooting, got it straight. Minimal windage adjustments needed and its driving tacs at 100 yards. Guess the piece of trash under the rear mount was the main issue. Thank you all for your advice and help. Glad I didn't have to get new rings. Thanks again.
epoletna
Well-Known Member
That's good news. Not the trash, but finding out that was the problem!
