Help on Tikka build

[Greengt88]

I would just get the CTR and see how it shoots for you 1st. I'd be extremely surprised if it doesn't impress you…as far as a scope Burris XTR 2 is really economical and built like a tank.you could be in the entire setup for around $15-1600

 

[copper still]

I would just get the CTR and see how it shoots for you 1st. I'd be extremely surprised if it doesn't impress you…as far as a scope Burris XTR 2 is really economical and built like a tank. You could be in the entire setup for around $15-1600

It's all been purchased.
I'm very familiar with how well Tikkas shoot.
A Tikka T3 270 WSM was was my first rifle and it still shoots well. I changed the barrel over to 300 WSM a bit back since I couldn't find 270 WSM brass and I wanted overlap between my other 30 cal woods gun.

I really wanted to try a a chassis rifle for mostly at the range but possibly as a western states shooter
My woods gun is Laminate traditional stock.
That's a 2 battery Maglite BTW its shorter than a yard stick(super handy when I am doing drives in PA).
16" barrel .308 sub 7lbs carry weight

 

[copper still]

View attachment 548920

Well played. Love those CTR mags!

Thats goona be a solid setup, be sure to decrease all fasteners and assemble with a torque driver.

Wet vs dry threads is a topic of some debate. Not a universal requirement, but I have found some advantages to sealing threads, especially in severe conditions. These days I am liking the purple permatex threadlocker - seals threads to moisture and corrosion but doesnt harden up - makes it easy to remove fasteners without stripping them.

First I've heard of this care to point me to an article that goes into more detail?

 

[jessegibson1978]

Thanks everyone your advise have been very useful and made me change what I initially thought I was going to buy.
I made my purchases.
Tikka CTR SS 24" 6.5CM
KRG Bravo Chassis s/u for CTR mags
Trijicon Tenmile 3-18x44 (FFP) MRAD

Now I need to find Scope Rings that don't cost and arm and a leg, the right Bipod, and where I can find additional CTR mags( I want one more 10 and a 5)

I love the unknown munitions rings if you are going straight to the dove tail. With the tenmile get the low my credo has 1/4 or better clearance in the medium. They are around $100 from midway.

 

[Hand Skills]

First I've heard of this care to point me to an article that goes into more detail?

I couldn't think of anything off-hand, so I did a quick search. This is a pretty good step by step here;

Scope mounting to maintain zero....

After multiple requests for an explanation of how to mount a scope in order to have the lowest possible chance of loss in zero, I took some pics of what I do with a rifle when I get it and how I mount scopes (or anything with screws). To start- a bit of background of why I say what I sa...

www.24hourcampfire.com

A torque driver isn't 100% necessary - in your case, finger tight + 1/4 turn will get you close to where you want to be on both your action screws and your ring screws (65in/lbs and 50in/lbs respectively). Some rings and bases spec 15 or 20 or 25in/lbs, and that's a lot harder to dial in without a torque driver.

Read the ARC rings instructuons, they go into a bit more detail and recommend a dab of oil on the HEAD of the screw only.

There is some debate on the subject of thread lubrication - that can be a bit of a rabbit hole.

If you're not in a coastal environment (salt water) and you're not dealing with subzero condensation issues, or rainforest humidity levels, dry threads probably won't give you any problems, but DRY means degreased.

I only mention it because I've learned the hard way that tight groups require tight screws!

 

[copper still]

I couldn't think of anything off-hand, so I did a quick search. This is a pretty good step by step here;

Scope mounting to maintain zero....

After multiple requests for an explanation of how to mount a scope in order to have the lowest possible chance of loss in zero, I took some pics of what I do with a rifle when I get it and how I mount scopes (or anything with screws). To start- a bit of background of why I say what I sa...

www.24hourcampfire.com

A torque driver isn't 100% necessary - in your case, finger tight + 1/4 turn will get you close to where you want to be on both your action screws and your ring screws (65in/lbs and 50in/lbs respectively). Some rings and bases spec 15 or 20 or 25in/lbs, and that's a lot harder to dial in without a torque driver.

Read the ARC rings instructuons, they go into a bit more detail and recommend a dab of oil on the HEAD of the screw only.

There is some debate on the subject of thread lubrication - that can be a bit of a rabbit hole.

If you're not in a coastal environment (salt water) and you're not dealing with subzero condensation issues, or rainforest humidity levels, dry threads probably won't give you any problems, but DRY means degreased.

I only mention it because I've learned the hard way that tight groups require tight screws!

Salt water and sub zero Thanks for the link

 

[copper still]

Please show us how it turned out. I'm curious about the KRG bravo for mine.

will do

 

[copper still]

Okay here it is.
It took about an hour to put together. I may need to adjust the LOP a bit but I figured I would first get it on paper and then go from there. It is very similar to my Tikka T3 in fit and finish but with the obvious elements of the CTR.
Thanks to everyone in the community that helped with there insights and suggestions, I am very grateful.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

Okay here it is.
It took about an hour to put together. I may need to adjust the LOP a bit but I figured I would first get it on paper and then go from there. It is very similar to my Tikka T3 in fit and finish but with the obvious elements of the CTR.
Thanks to everyone in the community that helped with there insights and suggestions, I am very grateful.

Looks nice! How's the weight?

 

[copper still]

Looks nice! How's the weight?

11 lbs 4 oz with empty magazine

 

[FireFlyFishing]

Chunky but not fat…I guess she can stay.

11 lbs 4 oz with empty magazine

 

[copper still]

Okay I took the rifle to the range for the first time, here are the results.
Factory Hornady ELD-M 140 gr shot at 2660 ft/s instead of the box stated 2710 ft/s through my stock 23.7" stock tikka barrel.
I also shot some handloads to get the basics on speed and accuracy and I'm already shoot sub 1/2 moa.

I then took the rifle to the local gun range and shot prone for my first time ever.
This was at 500 yards and the second 5 shot group I took with Hornady Factory Ammo.

I know nothing about how to correct for wind.
As you can see it picked up as I was shooting and I attempted to holdover from shot 2 up.
I'm sure there is more accuracy in this rifle than what I've shot in the first 30 rounds.
Any rate I feel this will do the job in the ranges I plan on shooting.
Again, Everyone thanks for all of your help.

 

[Hand Skills]

Great work on the trigger!!

Happy shooting!

 

[bultinkle]

Looking good, shoots like I expected it would. enjoy!