Help Me Decide on Rifle Trade

Trade?

  • Yes

    Votes: 25 50.0%
  • No

    Votes: 25 50.0%

  • Total voters
    50
How does your current rifle shoot at 100 ,200 and 300 Yards???? Is it a 1 MOA Rifle right now?? Could it be with proper bedding , trigger and Hand loads??
 

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I can't justify the cost of a rebarrel right now. I just got into reloading, have two kids and a third on the way. I'm just trying to get some performance out of a factory 700 with a stock, Timney, and some hand loads. I was leaning towards the trade since a 26" barrel is what I wanted, but I also wanted stainless. The poll is confirming my choice, thanks for helping!
I'd keep the stainless the 2" your missing is not going to cost you much in performance.
 
The barrel makers that make both Chrom Moly and Stainless barrels won't tell you the SS are more accurate . What it comes down to is corrosion resistance . Also they wear out differently ,don't believe me check out Bartlein barrels web site website and read their FAQ page. Most of my rifles have SS barrels ,but my CZ527 204 Ruger and W-W 1885 in 220 Swift are Chrom Molly and they both are no less accurate then my match SS barrels .
I have never heard CM were less accurate than SS.
 
I recently bought a 700 SPS stainless 300WM off GunBroker, and the barrel was falsely advertised as being 26". To my disappointment when I picked it up from my FFL, I noticed it had a 24" barrel.

I have an opportunity this weekend to trade my buddy for his 700 BDL 300WM with a 26" barrel straight up. Both are early to mid 90s, mine is stainless his is not. The stock is not a consideration because I have a Stockys fiberglass sporter that it is going in. I am loading 215gr bullets for it.

What would you do, trade or no?
Check the twist on each?
 
I can't justify the cost of a rebarrel right now. I just got into reloading, have two kids and a third on the way. I'm just trying to get some performance out of a factory 700 with a stock, Timney, and some hand loads. I was leaning towards the trade since a 26" barrel is what I wanted, but I also wanted stainless. The poll is confirming my choice, thanks for helping!
I'd stick with the rifle you have if it shoots to the accuracy level your use case requires. You're not going to realize that much performance difference between a 24 and 26 at most typical hunting ranges. If you're attempting a lot of shots on game in the 600-1000 yard range then a few more fps could be helpful with wind error. It won't make a difference in elevation correction or velocity, the 24 will give you plenty, especially with that high BC bullet. Being new to reloading you should realize you're going to give up performance in stock 300WM with a long bullet because it's going to need to stick way down into the powder column to fit in the rifle. I would look at the Berger 190 VLD and the 205 Elite Hunter as well. They will take up less space in your case. I have had crazy good groups out of the 190 VLD in a couple of 300 WSMs.
 
I'd stick with the rifle you have if it shoots to the accuracy level your use case requires. You're not going to realize that much performance difference between a 24 and 26 at most typical hunting ranges. If you're attempting a lot of shots on game in the 600-1000 yard range then a few more fps could be helpful with wind error. It won't make a difference in elevation correction or velocity, the 24 will give you plenty, especially with that high BC bullet. Being new to reloading you should realize you're going to give up performance in stock 300WM with a long bullet because it's going to need to stick way down into the powder column to fit in the rifle. I would look at the Berger 190 VLD and the 205 Elite Hunter as well. They will take up less space in your case. I have had crazy good groups out of the 190 VLD in a couple of 300 WSMs.
Thanks for the input. I understand that with a SAAMI spec length 300WM, but at 0.01" to 0.04" off the lands I am way longer than SAAMI and just barely past the shoulder with the bullet. I have a uni-throater for both my 300WM and 7RM being delivered tomorrow and will ream a little more freebore into each to get the bullet out of the case's powder capacity. I will be running Wyatt's box in the 300WM, not sure I'll need it for the 7RM yet.
 
I would trade in a NY minute. To me, and only me speaking here.. The 2" extra on the barrel, being blued, being a BDL, and knowing that when I press the trigger the slug will have more barrel to use up more of the powder and go a bit faster would make all the difference to me. When I do need to rebarrel it, the 26" is one of the best next to the 28" barrels for the 300 win mag. I would also make sure the barrel had a 1:8" twist rather than the stock 1:10" twist. practical knowledge tells me that even the 200 grain slugs shoot like crap in the 1:10" twist barrels. Clients, friends, and my own three 300 W/M's never shoot under 2.5" with anything over a 190 grain slug. I Rebarreled a 300 W/M with a 1:8" twist; the 200 through 230 grain slugs shoot exceptionally well. I have lost all faith that 195 grain and higher slugs will ever shoot in a 1:10" twist barrel.
This is a bummer to hear as I live in Carson City as well, and was hoping our elevation would stabilize the 215s
 
I have to ask. Why did you not file a claim with gun broker if the rifle was falsely advertised. And if you paid by credit card you could have stopped payment.
First before i did anything i would raise hell with gunbroker.
I didn't know it was an option, I let the seller know how bummed I was about it, he said sorry, and that was the end.
 
Congrats on the rifle . As a fellow NV resident ,were you successful in drawing a big game tag ?
No unfortunately, but me and my wife only have a few points built up since moving from Pollock Pines. I did get to go on my boss's cow elk hunt though, which was tough with the weather this fall.

Here's to next years draw!
 
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