Help identifyig a bullet make/brand?

[Beelzebub]

I well agree with everything that has been said. I've got 100 cases cleaned, trimmed and de-burred and primed. So now I have to decide which powders to use and where to begin and end a string of loads. This gun is fairly new to me but it will shoot 143's into 1/3" group.

I didn't buy these to hunt with I promise. I bought these because they were cheap and would be an easy experiment. So far the 20 r so that I have weighed have been within 1 grain +/- and less than .004" in length and we all know that is nothing for an HPBT.

If these bullets will group I might then send the $1.00/bullet to hunt with but I seriously doubt it. I've killed 16 der this year with ELD-X's and none of them have taken more than several steps. So as most of us do, I'm trying to get that 0.159" group smaller than that. Don't you agree with my attempts?

and actually I have several, but we also know that is not the norm out of an old worn out Rem Model 700 VLS. But if I can't shoot it at .250" or less I don't shoot it much.

I also love horse shoes and pitching pennies. I used to throw hand grenades for a living, but my shoulder wore out and I had to give it up.

 

[thatguyshm]

I shoot plenty of seconds. Shot my biggest deer with one in 338. A lot of times it's a contract for loaded ammo, they make more bullets than needed for a certain manufacturer, sometimes it's the wrong tip. I've gotten seconds from Nosler that are CT ballistic tips without the lubalox coating applied, a standard non cannulated bullet that has one applied for a specific round, (think 338 WM vs RUM).

Shoot them and find out what you get. I've gotten amazing accuracy with seconds, and put plenty into jugs, all preform as they should. I just got some 338 200gr ballistic tips that were not coated. The red tips were discontinued quite some time ago but I have the same thing. They all weigh within half a grain of one another.