Having an issue with stainless media tumbling

[bigedp51]

You are getting case mouth peening, as the cases tumble they hit each other and hit and peen the softer annealed case mouth. The only solution is to trim the cases each time you wet tumble.

You can also peen the case mouths in hand cranked rotary media separators as the cases hit each other. The amount of case mouth peening depends on the speed of the tumbler, the size of the drum and how many cases are put in the drum.

I added more stainless steel media and tumble for less time when wet tumbling. And I find I use my vibratory tumbler more to reduce the amount of case mouth peening. But still trim after tumbling to cleanup the case mouths.

In a vibratory tumbler with walnut or corncob media the effect of the cases hitting each other is reduced and dampened by the media. "BUT" in a hand cranked media separator you can still dent and peen the case mouths.

Ultrasonic cleaners are safer and do not have the cases hitting each other, but do not clean as well as wet tumbling. Or make your own home made case cleaner and just hand wash your brass.

Homemade Firearm Cleaners & Lubricants
https://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

Chemical Case Cleaning Solutions

While tumbling cases in an abrasive media provides the best finish, extremely dirty cases can be decapped first (using a non-sizing die) and then washed in one of the following solutions. The final rinse in soapy water helps prevent tarnishing. All of these methods were approved by Frankford Arsenal and will not weaken your brass.

• A 5 percent solution of citric acid (available from your drugstore) and warm water for about 10 minutes. If your water is very hard increase the amount of citric acid. You can add some Dawn™ or Cascade™ dishwasher liquid soap (which does not contain ammonia--be careful some do), 409, or Awsome to the solution for extra grease cutting ability. Follow with a rinse in hot soapy water (Ivory™ works well) and allow to dry. Don't overuse the citric acid or the brass may discolor.
• A solution of 1 quart of white vinegar and 2 tablespoons of salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes and follow with a rinse of soapy hot water and allow to dry.
• A solution of 1 quart of water, 1 cup white vinegar, 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1/4 cup laundry or dishwashing detergent, 1/8 cup salt. Soak with some agitation for 15 to 20 minutes and follow with a rinse of soapy hot water and allow to dry. This may leave brass with a slight pinkish cast which will disappear with a short tumble in media.
• Military arsenals use a heated 4 percent sulfuric acid dip with a little potassium dichromate added. The solution is heated until bubbles rise slowly without it boiling and the cases are dipped into it for 4 -5 minutes using a basket of copper screening or plastic. A final rinse using plain hot water is followed by hot water with Ivory™ soap in it and the cases are left to drain and dry. Because of the use of heated sulfuric acid this method is probably impractical for home use but is given here to show what can be safely used.

Cases which have been fired several times and which show signs of carbon build up internally can be rinsed in straight paint & varnish makers (P&VM) naphtha available at any paint store. Decap, soak for 5 - 10 minutes, drain, allow to air dry and then tumble as usual. Cases will be sparkling clean inside and out but not any shinier.

An interesting idea is to use an "air stone" and a small air pump from a fish aquarium tank to agitate the liquid clea

 

[Remmy700]

I think that is my problem as I don't notice it when I do large batches. But I think because the capacity is so much and only running 100 pcs of brass plus that thing spins pretty fast. Thank u brother

 

[Wswim]

I've tried a few different methods of cleaning brass. When I was buying military brass in surplus lots I used a cement mixer and corn cob. The method that works best for me is to use small corn cob in a vibratory tumbler. I deprime before cleaning and the small cob cleans the primer pocket. I just have to check each round to make sure there isn't a piece of cob in the flash hole. Walnut always seems to color the brass a brownish color. I put a couple of cap fulls of Brasso in the corn cob, run it for a few minutes to distribute the Brasso and then add the brass. I usually just put the brass in and let it run overnight. Even the nastiest brass comes out clean and shinny. The Brasso leaves a nice coating that can't be felt but keeps the brass looking like new for years. I haven't found anything better than imperial resizing wax for sizing. I just rub a small amount on my fingers every five or six rounds. I've never had a stuck case in thousands of rounds. I then run the brass through the vibratory tumbler with Brasso for maybe ten minutes before I load. I have loads that I ended up not using because I found the right load before I got to those loads. I buy brass in 5000 round lots so some of those loads don't get broken down for quite a while. I have some 25-06 loads that still look like new and I sold my last 25-06 rifle in the mid eighties there may be a better way but I'm too old to mess around with much new stuff when the old ways work so well!

 

[SCSCHNUR]

I think that is my problem as I don't notice it when I do large batches. But I think because the capacity is so much and only running 100 pcs of brass plus that thing spins pretty fast. Thank u brother

You can change speed with different pulleys I run mine at around 30-40 revolutions per minute

 

[25WSM]

We tried several ways in the media. The case mouth peening is not the only problem or you could just run it in the sizer and it would be gone. If you have factory chambers it's not an issue. When you shoot target rifles with .003 clearance it is. I just wipe them off on the exterior after shooting them and lube and size. I have shot over a hundred thousand of rounds and have never seen a worn out die. My guns regularly shoot zeros so I'm not changing. I know this is a hunting sight but I load my hunting rifles the same way. They all have custom chambers and I turn necks. If I shot praise dogs every year it would be different. But my target guns do the bulk of my shooting. Steel pins tumbling was a detriment to accuracy. So I choose not to do it. Never looked back. Shep

 

[misterc01]

Vibrator tumbler with walnut media from pet store, touch of Nu Finish. Nice clean and shiny. After brushing neck, and resizing, into the ultrasonic to get case lube off and primer pocket cleaned a little better. Nice clean shiny ready to reload brass.

 

[bigngreen]

I've never seen this issue, my brass comes out looking the exact way it went in except cleaner. I might run mine a half hour to an hour and I don't over load it, the cases just roll in stainless pins not against each other.

 

[Will Gray]

When I do clean brass, I decap it without case lub (separate die), clean it with a good strong mix of citric acid powder and hot water in the ultrasonic cleaner, takes about an hour to get the primer pockets clean. I dry it in the oven at 200F, resize, wash in brake parts cleaner, blow dry, prime, powder, seat bullets and go shoot. I never bother with case length but when the priers get loose, I throw the brass away. You can still shoot them with primer sealer liquid to hold them in but Brass is not that precious. I never have blown primers or such and I load my EDGE very HOT. A sure indication that the brass is no good is when it will not go into the shell holder.

 

[SCSCHNUR]

After they a run though wet polishing with SS, I just case gauge if both ends pass good they are to go. I do this after cleaning the brass so if I need to trim they go in tub for trimming. When I get enough to do I will trim, if I don't have many I just save them. If they have been fired a few times I will anneal them resize then chamfer and prime then load. I don't shoot much anymore so that's my 2 cents.

 

[crkckr]

I've gone thru the corn cob grit/brasso, which works well but doesn't clean the primer pockets, to the SS pins & Dawn and now I'm using the BoreTech cleaner with the pins. While I've never noticed any flaring of the case mouth, I clean before sizing so it wouldn't be a problem for me anyway.
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[skipglo]

So was talking with another member on here that seen same problem as I am having. Basically I will put deprimed brass in my tumbler and run a cycle of an hour to an hour 1/2 depending on condition of brass. I specifically checked this batch of brass prior to tumbling. Once I got the brass out and dried and examined again a large majority of the case mouths have a very small flare. It is very very hard to see as you have to hold the case in the light and just find the right angle. I am wondering if perhaps my tumbler is to big for just 100 pcs of small brass, or maybe to much media? I have no idea but something in the tumbling process is causing this. Has anyone seen this before running SS media? I tried to get a pic but I cant get it to show up. Any help would be appreciated, I am about to swap back to old school vibratory if I cant figure it out.

I'd put the C9 in with them for only 30 minutes...see if that straightens them out!

 

[Remmy700]

I've gone thru the corn cob grit/brasso, which works well but doesn't clean the primer pockets, to the SS pins & Dawn and now I'm using the BoreTech cleaner with the pins. While I've never noticed any flaring of the case mouth, I clean before sizing so it wouldn't be a problem for me anyway.
Cheers,
crkckr

I don't size till they are clean. If I sized and it went away I would care. I F/L size after cleaning and mandrel size and naw man it's definelty still there. Maybe not as prevalent but I can still see it at right angle.

 

[SCSCHNUR]

I don't size till they are clean. If I sized and it went away I would care. I F/L size after cleaning and mandrel size and naw man it's definelty still there. Maybe not as prevalent but I can still see it at right angle.

Hand wash a few before Tumbling and see if the flare is there. I personally have never had that issue and I have been tumbling mine for better than three years.

 

[SCSCHNUR]

Hand wash a few before Tumbling and see if the flare is there. I personally have never had that issue and I have been tumbling mine for better than three years. Not saying that it isn't happening I know by reading your posts your are very knowledgeable. So please don't take offense by anything just offering a suggestion.