Glass bed modeling clay

Gotta say...... another GREAT thread...... I have been using J-B weld for years..... but i,m going to try this soft stuff.... seeing its benefits..... along with vibration absorption....
Thanks everyone who contributed.....
 
Gotta say...... another GREAT thread...... I have been using J-B weld for years..... but i,m going to try this soft stuff.... seeing its benefits..... along with vibration absorption....
Thanks everyone who contributed.....
Bill
I have copied a few Palma team members approach on vibration management
Action is conventionally bedded (they used Devcon TI, I use Marinetex). Forward of action the barrel channel is bedded with Devcon Flexane. Link below

 
Bill
I have copied a few Palma team members approach on vibration management
Action is conventionally bedded (they used Devcon TI, I use Marinetex). Forward of action the barrel channel is bedded with Devcon Flexane. Link below

Interesting. How far foward is the barrel channel bedded with Flexane?
 
I've had good luck with plumbers putty and Hornady One shot case lube as a release agent. The Pro-bed2000 kits I've been using come with an excellent release agent paste that works as well. I use the paste in the lug areas and actions screw holes. I personally find the clean up associated with modeling clay is more difficult than plumbers putty. I've head playdough works well but haven't tried it yet.
I just ordered this kit to try on the recoil lug area of the used clymr stock I picked up.
 

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forward of Recoil lug and to end of forend.
I was mentored to fully free-float the barrel from 2 inches forward of the recoil lug to the front-end of stock forearm for best accuracy. Then Weatherby has a small contact point near the forward end of forearm that puts pressure on the barrel & others probably do different things.
What kind of accuracy are you getting fully bedded all the way?
With the high dollars involved in custom gun work trial & error isn't cheap so what matters most & does caliber, (ie.? heavy larger or smaller bullets) make a difference in deciding how to build a rifle & stock?
forward of Recoil lug and to end of forend.
 
I was mentored to fully free-float the barrel from 2 inches forward of the recoil lug to the front-end of stock forearm for best accuracy. Then Weatherby has a small contact point near the forward end of forearm that puts pressure on the barrel & others probably do different things.
What kind of accuracy are you getting fully bedded all the way?
With the high dollars involved in custom gun work trial & error isn't cheap so what matters most & does caliber, (ie.? heavy larger or smaller bullets) make a difference in deciding how to build a rifle & stock?
The main change was consistency and a general reduction in flyers. The proper flexane bedding doesnot induce pressure on barrel. I used the same material to create footings for my bridgeport - and there the vibration was reduced. seemed to deaden vibrations
 
I thought I got my action stuck today. I used the release agent provided in the pro bed 2000 kit and it did not work very well. I finally got it loose and some of the bedding stuck to the sides of the lugs. I will get a different release agent before I do anything else. The epoxy worked well though. I had to sand down in front of the recoil lug to free float the barrel but it fits well and holds the action in upside down. I am going to try the tang area today. The small recoil lug area was a good test for my first time.
 

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When the recoil lug is involved in using bedding compound.
Check the recoil lug very careful, Measure thickness and width very carefully. Make sure there is a taper from barrel to bottom of lug.
both width and thickness, And no burrs on corners. If needed, Remove excess metal from sides and front (barrel side) of lug. Even with release agent, The barrel lug can become a mechanical lock in the bedding compound. And what a revolting development this is.
I like to put a couple layers of masking tape on the bottom of the lug, So the lug will have a little free space when the action screws are torqued down.
 
When the recoil lug is involved in using bedding compound.
Check the recoil lug very careful, Measure thickness and width very carefully. Make sure there is a taper from barrel to bottom of lug.
both width and thickness, And no burrs on corners. If needed, Remove excess metal from sides and front (barrel side) of lug. Even with release agent, The barrel lug can become a mechanical lock in the bedding compound. And what a revolting development this is.
I like to put a couple layers of masking tape on the bottom of the lug, So the lug will have a little free space when the action screws are torqued down.
Some here don't like doing it this way, but I put electrical tape on the front, sides, and bottom faces of the recoil lug before applying the release agent.
 
I fill msg well with paper towels and use masking tape just below the bottom of the action line. Cleaning out the putty can be painful without a mill. Only have a dremmel and files. But the tape allows me to cut to the tape and use that as the guide not to cut deeper and fine tune it with a file.

I do use putty for action holes and a small dam in front of lug in the channel. It is painful to get out though under the epoxy.
 
I am going to use modeling clay for my next bedding job. I used plumber's putty in the past. I have regular modeling clay and the air dry version. What kind do most use. I assume the non drying kind. I thought the air drying version might be useful for the stock in the mag well and trigger area. Any thoughts?View attachment 486135
Yes,you cannot be too careful! Once I forgot to plug lightning cuts on a G33/40 small ring Mauser ! Not good! Spray release from Brownell, s is top notch product! S.
 
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