He used the titan brand blade.
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Getting sharp lines when bedding the action?
- Thread starter Bob Wright
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He used the titan brand blade.
I saw on their web site there were 4 grades of blades each of a different color. Black is rated for Industrial Use, so I'm thinkin' that will be the go to blade.
I put 2 layers of the 10 mil pvc tape on the muzzle side of the recoil lug, and 1 layer on each side of the recoil lug. That way , when the barreled action is ready to come out, you just bump the muzzle upward and the barreled action kinda hinges out pivoting on the rear tang. Being able to trim that tape in place with the plastic blade is a time saver. I tried sharpening a Domino's takeout plastic knife, but couldn't get it sharp enough.
Hello Bob, I am curious about what you are trying to show in the first photo? As for the dremel grabbing and destroying, I use a sanding bob, 1/2 inch diameter, and when I sand I always sand so the rotation of the bob is always sanding up towards the area that you are sanding. I understand what you are saying as I have a very nice Ruger stock that has one of those grabs in it at the fore end; that's called experience. I filled the gouge in with epoxy, unless you are looking for it's not really noticeable, and....it's a hunting rifle. When sanding up it takes some practice because although it may be easier to sand into the material, it only takes one grab and you are in trouble. When I mark for the clearance on the barrel channel where the stock meets the barrel (steel), I use a fine pointed magic marker that I run up against the barrel and mark the stock. I have tried the best of masking tape, but have found that the tape will move or come unstuck. From that point I sand out until there's very little of the mark left from the magic marker. After I have the stock material removed, I then run a piece of masking tape so that it masks the stock right up the stock where it has been clearanced. Any tape that laps over into the barrel channel I remove with a sharp Exacto knife, a razor blade from a razor knife should also work. From that point I "ALWAYS" cover the entire stock from the back of the floor plate forward to the end of the fore end. I have found that epoxy "will" always find its way onto that stock, especially if you have a blow out where your hands end up getting into the epoxy. So......always tape the entire stock from the grip forward. Then I place putty for a dam I always set the putty before setting the barrel into the stock, pull the barrel out of the stock to make sure the putty will hold when you seat the barrel into the epoxied stock. Put a piece of tape over the putty on the fore end to hold the dam in place, shouldn't have to, but just a precaution to prevent a blow out there. When everything is ready to bed, I then take a small paint brush like one that is used to paint model cars (like when we were kids) and put a couple of coats on the tape where the tape meets the barrel channel, this will make peeling the tape off easier after the epoxy has cured. I have a woodworking shop and will make some wooden putty knifes that are about 1 inch wide, 1/8th inch thick and about 6 inches long. I then sharpen the end like a chisel and use this to spread the epoxy where the barrel meets the stock, and also to remove as much excess, run out as I possibly can. And......one last trick that I use is an "irrigation syringe" filled with epoxy so that epoxy can be forced into the barrel channel/recoil lug recess or places where you have to fill in. An irrigation syringe will save you a lot of time and help make a really nice job. Irrigation syringes look just like a large needle, plastic syringe, they can be purchased at any prescription center/drug store. The irrigation syringe acts like a miniature calking gun that you can fill up. They can be reused for future bedding jobs once the epoxy cures. Use two layers of plumber tape starting 4 inches in front of the recoil lug all the way out at least 3/4 inches past the fore end, then I give all of the steep a couple of coats of Brownells release agent. I have read where guys put a couple of coats of auto wax on the steel before they bed, I have never done this but will try it on my next bedding job, it certainly cannot hurt. I have also read where tape is place on the front of the recoil lug, this I have never done either. Also make certain that you have filled any indents or holes that epoxy can flow into before setting any steel into the epoxy, if you don't take precautions here getting the barrel out of the stock "will" be a challenge. I found this out when I missed a small indent on a Ruger 77 receiver that has the Ruger logo in it. The indent was about 3/16ths in diameter and may .020 thousands deep, it was challenging to get out. If there's a hole that it questionable fill it with putty, putty is a whole lot easier than epoxy to get out. This dissertation is over!!
haven't read all the replies yet but will...
I normally don't have any bedding under the barrel at all with the finished job. The barrel is completely free floated.. So, I lay a layer of tape in the bottom of the barrel channel on the very front edge of the recoil lug. Usually will stick another piece of tape further up the channel adjacent to the first piece in case the putty runs that far.. These pieces of tape come all the way up the sides and over the edges if you wish.. I put wax (release agent) on the top surface of the tape although probably not necessary.. Proceed with bedding, I use Marine Tex. After it's cured I use the dreaded Dremel with a carbide cutter and carefully cut through the overflow in the barrel channel right at the very front edge of the recoil lug or maybe .050'' away from the edge of the recoil lug to be sure I grind though to the tape. Going slowly you will see when you get through the epoxy to the tape, I use blue masking tape.. Cut through the bedding to the tape up the sides as well. When you have reached the tape with the cutter all the way around you can take a flat screw driver or 1/4'' chisel and tap on the front of the overflowed epoxy and all of it will pop free and you can pull it out.. Careful with the Dremel, go slowly and don't let it run over the top edge of the stock.. Hope this helps
I normally don't have any bedding under the barrel at all with the finished job. The barrel is completely free floated.. So, I lay a layer of tape in the bottom of the barrel channel on the very front edge of the recoil lug. Usually will stick another piece of tape further up the channel adjacent to the first piece in case the putty runs that far.. These pieces of tape come all the way up the sides and over the edges if you wish.. I put wax (release agent) on the top surface of the tape although probably not necessary.. Proceed with bedding, I use Marine Tex. After it's cured I use the dreaded Dremel with a carbide cutter and carefully cut through the overflow in the barrel channel right at the very front edge of the recoil lug or maybe .050'' away from the edge of the recoil lug to be sure I grind though to the tape. Going slowly you will see when you get through the epoxy to the tape, I use blue masking tape.. Cut through the bedding to the tape up the sides as well. When you have reached the tape with the cutter all the way around you can take a flat screw driver or 1/4'' chisel and tap on the front of the overflowed epoxy and all of it will pop free and you can pull it out.. Careful with the Dremel, go slowly and don't let it run over the top edge of the stock.. Hope this helps
Dr. Vette
Well-Known Member
Same here.
I don't bed the barrel at all, so I wrap the vinyl tape on the first portion of the barrel with as many layers as can easily fit without hitting the stock. I then put 1-2 layers of blue tape in the stock just ahead of the recoil lug recess, similar to what is described above. This leaves a very thin space between the stock and the barrel.
Once I remove the barreled action after bedding, I use an Xacto knife to score the edge of the bedding material closest to the recoil lug, since a bit of it will have entered the space. Lift the blue tape, and the excess material pops out right along the score line.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
I'm doing well on bedding, but was curious how to get the clean edge at the end of the bedding where that arrow is pointing. Most replies here suggest a score mark on the curing epoxy using tape as a guide.
These pictures show my first foray into Devcon stainless powder fill metal "putty". Product worked great. I quit using Acraglas due to receiving 2 sets of material that were like "wet sugar" and unusable. (Used for about 15 years, many rifles).
Most of the comments regarding where to terminate the bedding is at the forward face of the lug. I prefer as well as my last custom built entirely by a rifle builder, just under the barrel shank. Some do it like this, others don't. It doesn't hurt my groups, as all my previous pillar bedding jobs all shot way better, especially floating the channel.
Got great tips and hacks on other materials to try for masking and dams and appreciate all of the info.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
Thanks for those pics! Nice rig!
I have never done this so please bare with me for my question. The wat you have it now set up with the blue tape, once it the resin/glass is set, can you just cut a straight line with the dremel. The stock is already protected with the tape. Or did you guys talked about that and I missed it? Just looking to learn for when I decide to do it.
Now i see it....I think it is what bigngreen is talking about...
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Danny1788
Well-Known Member
what end mill are you using to cut the bedding Rihan? Ball endmill?
Where the stock and action meet there was no Dremel used. A plastic blade was used to cut the material while it was still pliable.
GonzoK34
Well-Known Member
I use vinyl tape In front of recoil lug and 8" forward on the barrel. Use Johnson paste wax on the barreled action and barrel. Us modeling clay as a filler and form a clay dam up front. Use exacto knife to shape the dam. Then apply wax to all the clay and the wood where I don't want the DevCon. Also place tape 1/8" into receiver and barrel channel apply wax. After 6 hrs I smack the stock with a rubber mallet and barreled action pops right out. Minor cleanup and it's done. After the stock cures over night. I apply wax to the inside of the stock. Wipe off excess. This has worked for me the 30 years plus. Good luck. SEMPER FEDELIS
That has to be by far the best bedding I have ever seen!
GonzoK34
Well-Known Member
Thank you so much
