Action bedding - help with the hard part!

[David_h]

I just did a skim bed on a Howa carbon stock and I used windex and nylon brush to remove the release agent/wax and clay from the receiver. It seemed to work pretty good.

 

[Longtine88]

I'm not saying to put it on where pieces mate together. Just close enough to keep excess from getting on stock surface. Dry fit the action to see where you need to run your tapeline. It could save a lot of time in cleanup IMO.

I tape all around the stock. It does save some time and work.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

I just did a skim bed on a Howa carbon stock and I used windex and nylon brush to remove the release agent/wax and clay from the receiver. It seemed to work pretty good.

And the tape up in the barrel channel should help to ensure you have a free floating system correct ? It (tape thickness) should give you a few thousandths. And no clean up necessary if removed carefully. But you would still want to dry fit to make sure you have the clearances needed before bedding ? Your taping is exactly what I was thinking. But I have yet to do one. But I don't foresee it as being a major problem.

 

[Darryle]

I'm not saying to put it on where pieces mate together. Just close enough to keep excess from getting on stock surface. Dry fit the action to see where you need to run your tapeline. It could save a lot of time in cleanup IMO.

I use painters tape to prevent squeeze out from getting into magazine wells, barrel channel and on the sides of the stock.

I use some form of epoxy adhesive a couple of times a day, preparation is 90% of the work. We use different types of release agents.

The 2 most common agents we use

Mono-Coat 150

FreKote 44

These are probably cost prohibitive for most people. Before applying a release agent I generally heat the substrate up, whatever I want to apply the coating to, apply liberal amounts of release agent, allow to flash off, apply a second coat, allow to flash and repeat until I have thoroughly coated anything I don't want to stick.

We use Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax in some instances, depends on the substrate, especially if it is coated/painted. I use a modified version of my regular routine, just at a lower temperature.

You can do the same thing with most any quality paste wax, it's just harder to get into the small cracks, recesses and crevices without heat and sometimes it's impossible even with heat, so a liquid works best.

I have long thought about making reusable fillers for rifle actions and this product was what led me to think on it more.

I use SocoMore moldable shim, we use it at work and it has a shelf life, once expired it has to be disposed of or destroyed. It works great for a variety of projects, like filing cavities that you want to prevent migration of epoxy resins. The great thing about it is very firm, if you use a quantity of items that are identical, say the same action, you can make one mold and reuse it continually as long as you use release agent on it. It doesn't shrink and is by nature resin resistant. It is sandable as well and very resistant to tearing or chipping. You can make a filler mold a little proud for the magazine cut for example, sand to contour and apply release agent. Pop it in and pop it out when done. We have literally used some of these filler molds thousands of times with various heat cycles under pressure or vacuum on them and they are still in great condition.

DMR 503

 

[muleystalker]

This is what I've been using for sometime nowView attachment 407609

I believe that's oil base, I think I have some of that brand on my bench also.

 

[338 dude]

I believe that's oil base, I think I have some of that brand on my bench also.

Says right on the package will not dry out or get hard!

 

[Dr. Vette]

KleanStrip Prep-All Wax and Grease remover.
I use it before applying the wax, and then to remove it.
Follow the directions and it works great. 1 gallon will last you a looooooong time.

KleanStrip Automotive