For those who have done it...

[ntsqd]

Reading Muddy's comments above got me thinking in a different track.

But first, going back to the OP's question I have done a barrel nut build and I have two more qued up. To set the barrel correctly takes a little time, especially if it is your first one. It's not difficult work, just need to pay attention and be meticulous. James at Northland Shooting has been suggested several times. I'm going to add mine as well. Fantastic company and fellow to work with. All three barrels and head-space tools came from him. I am also using his barrel nuts and recoil lugs.

Before I changed a barrel, brass, and dies for a very similar performing chamber I would buy another .243 barrel in a twist to support the range of bullet weights you desire to shoot. Most importantly I would choose to go .243 AI. NOT for the increase in performance, although it might be nice to have, but for the slower brass growth and for the potential of not burning out the throat quite as fast. But then again, exactly that is one of my qued builds.

 

[xsn10s]

Yes, i hand load. Nothing crazy. I want everything to still fit in an AICS mags.

Then you need to get the ramp notched for binderless AICS mags. Or if you get a new Remarms rifle in 243 win or other short action the ramp is already notched.

 

[Keystone7mm]

Before I changed a barrel, brass, and dies for a very similar performing chamber I would buy another .243 barrel in a twist to support the range of bullet weights you desire to shoot. Most importantly I would choose to go .243 AI.

I have thought about this as well. I'm just wondering how much case capacity I would be giving up to shoot the 108-115 bullets?

 

[ntsqd]

I have thought about this as well. I'm just wondering how much case capacity I would be giving up to shoot the 108-115 bullets?

That may be a whole different thread.

 

[Philward]

Once you do a remage barrel and hog out the stock for the nut and skim bed everything, do you have to re-bed it if you change the barrel again? Or go back to the stock barrel(assuming you didn't destroy it). I'm guessing that this is not a one and done change, the point being that a simpler to remove barrel attachment would allow a couple different chambering options for same action and stock. Would the recoil lug always come back to the same place? Since it seats against the front of action I suppose it would be the same. Does bedding for the barrel nut create a weak spot in the stock say if starting with a Mountain rifle stock profile?

 

[Muddyboots]

I have thought about this as well. I'm just wondering how much case capacity I would be giving up to shoot the 108-115 bullets?

The .243 Win case capacity is not the issue with 700SA, it's the crummy magazine COAL capacity which will be the overall deciding factor in seating longer heavier bullets out far enough to keep case capacity. I have a .243 but use it with short fast. Maybe someone can chime in on COAL with longer heavier you mentioned. Even worse with longer heavier monos. JMO

 

[xsn10s]

The .243 Win case capacity is not the issue with 700SA, it's the crummy magazine COAL capacity which will be the overall deciding factor in seating longer heavier bullets out far enough to keep case capacity. I have a .243 but use it with short fast. Maybe someone can chime in on COAL with longer heavier you mentioned.

I see it as a non issue if you're going to get a chassis stock. The feed ramp on older M700's just need the feed ramp notched. The new Remarms short actions are already notched for AICS binderless mags. Besides I've seated bullets in my 308 Win for 2.800" COL using VLD type bullets and they shot just fine. Same with my 260 AI which I run 140 gr ELDM's at 2.800 to feed from a BLD magbox until I get a chassis stock. Otherwise for really extended shots I single feed cartridges that are well seated out.

 

[cajun]

One little trick is set the headspace to close on the go easy. Then put a piece of scotchtape on the go which is about .002. It should not close on the taped gauge and when set this way it wont budge on the nogo which is usually .004. This gives a tight headspace and brass growth is very minimal.

 

[Keystone7mm]

@Everyone

I appreciate all the responses. There is a lot of information here to dissect and digest. I'm still not sure what I will do, but I have time to think it over.

I do like doing things myself, and learning new things. I also appreciate the abilities of a good gunsmith. There are also many precision factory options available now. Lots to think about, and that is part of the fun!

A couple of things that came up in the thread...

- Acceptable precision for me is an honest 3/4 MOA. If I could tweak hand loads to get to 1/2 I'd be pleased.

- I do handload

- Whether I go this route, or use a gunsmith, the gun will go in an HS Precision stock. Using that I don't believe I'd have to wallow out the stock for the nut, would I? The inlet is much larger. I'm probably gonna go with a varmint contour barrel.

- A Wyatt box mag and bottom metal would be a consideration.

 

[ntsqd]

If the stock isn't inletted for a barrel nut it probably won't clear, and if it does you may not be happy with the resulting tiny gap.

 

[Keystone7mm]

Good to know

 

[ntsqd]

A shouldered barrel would occupy a similar volume near the recoil lug, it just won't be the exact same shape. If you're buying the stock new you might discuss this with the stock maker. Likely they can do the inletting to clear a barrel nut. If you already have the stock I'd talk to them any way. They may be able to help or at least point out any potential problems.

 

[bergara0256]

Now that I'm older (50) I'll share my two cents…
I have played with savages, Ruger americans and done Remages… I've done the "I need to save money" builds and am around a community of shooters that are always trying to spend as little as possible…
Chasing ballistics and accuracy I relate to trying to find the "pot of gold at the end of the rainbow"
At least 9/10 the budget builds will not give the consistent accuracy…
They will print some amazing groups at times but that unexplained flier will always show up…
If your expectations are of having a 1-1.5 MOA setup realistically then do your remage…
I finally broke down and cried getting two impact actions with an extra bolt that covers 223 bolt face , 308 and a magnum bolt face…
It is so much easier to do prefits this way… And these setups are consistent!
I am not awake at night anymore trying to figure out the issue of "the fliers"
I can land in the top 5 when I compete…
Practice with your 243 and less slippery wind bullets while saving up for a nice build…
Your not giving up as much as you think with the 243… Especially if your practiced in the wind…
Cry once buying a nice custom action and never look back!

I would have to agree with mannup, I have a couple impact actions with prefit barrels. A lot of gunsmiths will tell you, that impact actions are the most reliable. They will always time perfect where there are other actions that will not. I have never had a barrel not time.

PM me if you want to hear who I've found that shoot the best out of the smiths I've used.

 

[Calvin45]

To do what you want, the action will need truing, all aspects blueprinted, recoil lug pinning and probably an upgrade to a 1/4" thick ground precision lug. After this, any barrel can be turned up the same and fit. This was my specialty on REM 700's, Win Model 70's and Kimber actions. I also made switch barrels on all of those actions and CZ 550 Safari actions for ELR. Just doing a re-barrel is no drama, but it will only be as good as what the factory cut…

Cheers.

A CZ550 for ELR? That's something you don't encounter too often…I love it!!!!

I have the cz550's kissing cousin haha, a BRNO ZG47. It's been rebarrelled in .358 Norma and I just love the thing.

Working behind a gun counter the last 3 months or so now, I have to say I'm asking myself why I don't have any CZ rifles in my collection. They just seem to me to be EXTREMELY well made for what they're asking for them, no contest, and the newer 600 models, especially the lux, appeal to the traditionalist in me, beautiful wood and blue steel, a rifle that still feels like an honest-to-God GUN in these days of synthetic materials and chassis stocks (which I have no problem with either, but they got nothing on how naturally these old school rifles point when shouldered free-hand)