for all you Banish 30 owners

I know this is an older post, but my end cap is seized. I tried heating it, using a hammer, freezing it after heating, etc. Nothing helped. I do not want to be without it as last time I sent it in for repair it took 6 weeks. Sounds like a soak in CLP and if the end cap does not come off at least the baffles will be clean and I can keep shooting. Correct?
 
I know this is an older post, but my end cap is seized. I tried heating it, using a hammer, freezing it after heating, etc. Nothing helped. I do not want to be without it as last time I sent it in for repair it took 6 weeks. Sounds like a soak in CLP and if the end cap does not come off at least the baffles will be clean and I can keep shooting. Correct?
I was able to heat just the extension and use a couple strap wrenches to free mine up . But to answer your question yes you can just clp it . Note there are posts about it removing the black finish . Most are plugging the end and just filling the thing up and letting it do it's thing for a day or two then flushing with water and compressed air .
 
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I know this is an older post, but my end cap is seized. I tried heating it, using a hammer, freezing it after heating, etc. Nothing helped. I do not want to be without it as last time I sent it in for repair it took 6 weeks. Sounds like a soak in CLP and if the end cap does not come off at least the baffles will be clean and I can keep shooting. Correct?
End cap? Do you have a Banish 30 2 piece body that will not separate? Do you have the cap not coming off that requires the keyed tool?
 
I know this is an older post, but my end cap is seized. I tried heating it, using a hammer, freezing it after heating, etc. Nothing helped. I do not want to be without it as last time I sent it in for repair it took 6 weeks. Sounds like a soak in CLP and if the end cap does not come off at least the baffles will be clean and I can keep shooting. Correct?
Are you talking about the cap with the specific caliber opening that you use their tool to put on? or the extension with the baffles in it to make it the "total" length, not the shortened length?
 
Ok found the old post. Can't think of anything that hasn't already been mentioned to try. I guess I got lucky, as early on I put that silver aluminum anti seize on those fine threads between the can bodies. I only use mine basically for hunting guns, so I clean more often than most, and that anti seize is working well. Good luck.
 
Ok found the old post. Can't think of anything that hasn't already been mentioned to try. I guess I got lucky, as early on I put that silver aluminum anti seize on those fine threads between the can bodies. I only use mine basically for hunting guns, so I clean more often than most, and that anti seize is working well. Good luck.
And mild hand tight, does not require breaking a sweat, 5 year old kid tight!
 
Shortened length. Just the end cap. The part that takes the keyed tool.
Just checked, I did put the anti on the inside of the can and the end cap, or maybe it just transferred. Does your cap have the supplied red rubber o-ring still on? If it's gone then I could see how it was inadvertently over tightened, but man, I don't have a answer, except to maybe soak with Break Free for a week!
 
Just my opinion since I don't have a suppressor. But when galling occurs messing with it just makes it worse. On something like the Banish I'd call the manufacturer up. Unless you can machine repairs yourself.
 
Just checked, I did put the anti on the inside of the can and the end cap, or maybe it just transferred. Does your cap have the supplied red rubber o-ring still on? If it's gone then I could see how it was inadvertently over tightened, but man, I don't have a answer, except to maybe soak with Break Free for a week!
Yeah, it still has the O-Ring on it.
 

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