Fliers

[Hugnot]

My thinking:

Fliers are common upon load development and to a lesser extent occur with subsequent use. Some calibers have less fliers than others like the 6.5X47 Lapua.

As mentioned by Quiet Texan's post - fliers are part of the entire statistical accuracy (as a body) of the load.

Using the OCW process for load development includes fliers. http://www.ocwreloading.com/home.html

The "Round Robin" sequence ensures more uniform shooting conditions among loads - like during the same session with fliers included. This assumes uniformity in components, loading process and consistent barrel temps & fouling effects. In exception to Mr. Newberry's recommendations I turn necks for the 6mm-06 when reforming .270 & .30-06 brass. I am not an equipment junky.

 

[Cliffhunter]

Ok guys I know there's been discussions on fliers before. My question is developing a load an you get 2 basically touch an the third is 3/4 or so off on a 3 shot group. Sometimes maybe 1st 2nd or 3rd would be off. What's causing this. I've had this happen on multiple calibers. Can y'all tell me what's the deal

Assuming it's 100 yards with multiple calibers I've had this happen as well. My best groups are early morning when it's cool and no heat waves and no wind. Try that.

 

[Carlos88]

So, this is one of the most frustrating problems I see with rifle owners. Can be some what tricky to find, but you have a secondary recoil point 100%. If you choose to pursue reloading issues as your problem, understand you may find a load that shoots better but your problem will not be fixed and you'll be hundreds if not thousands down the road. Also, if this is a hunting rifle and you take it on a hunt and bump it into its secondary battery position, the "flier" as you call it, may be your first shot. I have seen, diagnosed, and fixed this problem many times. You really need to take your rifle out of the stock, check the inlet. If it is bedded and you cant find the problem, I hate to tell you but you'll most likely need to start over with the bedding. Please feel free to message me. I can walk you through a few things to check before you get drastic. I hate when this happens to people, like I said a very frustrating issue to deal with. Sorry

It's mind bendingly frustrating. Whenever I buy a rifle I first clean the outside metal/wood, then bed and free float, check base screws not too long, clean barrel properly and go shoot. Various hunting bullets starting .030 off lands. If the rifle has a decent barrel It's not too difficult to get it shooting properly. By properly I mean 1 1/4" or so. The frustration factor is high when you first start fiddling. The older you get the easier it is to set one up.

 

[Hugnot]

It's mind bendingly frustrating. Whenever I buy a rifle I first clean the outside metal/wood, then bed and free float, check base screws not too long, clean barrel properly and go shoot. Various hunting bullets starting .030 off lands. If the rifle has a decent barrel It's not too difficult to get it shooting properly. By properly I mean 1 1/4" or so. The frustration factor is high when you first start fiddling. The older you get the easier it is to set one up.

I'm real old, like over 80, and comparing the cost of primers, bullets, powder & brass with the cost of a new hi-quality barrel the "frustration factor" usually results in a re-barrel job.

 

[rockytop65]

Guys I would like to thank each of you for your input. I've read a lot good information and will try the different techniques and suggestions so I can improve on mine.

 

[NVGuide]

My humble 2 cents…
If you are shooting a Christensen Arms rifle (doesn't matter what model) that came with a scope base rail already attached, insure that the base is secure. I dealt with the exact issue you described earlier today on my Christensen MPR .338 Lapua. 4 of 6 rounds during my load development in one ragged hole and an 2 approx 3/4 out in various directions. This happened with 3 separate targets.
I have built and developed custom loads for 6 different Christensen Arms guns over the past 2 years and every single one of them developed a loose scope rail around the 50-75 round mark. I confirmed torque settings on every one of them before mounting my scopes when they were brand new.
Remove the rail and most likely you will also find that it does not perfectly mate to the receiver. That is easily fixed by scuffing the rail where it contacts the receiver and putting an extremely thin layer of 5 min epoxy on the rail on the contact areas, set the rail on the receiver when the epoxy just starts to stiffen up and torque all screws to 5in lbs. Lay a straight edge on top of the rail and make screw adjustments until the rail is perfectly straight. Leave it overnight and then remove, loctite and replace the screws at the recommended torque settings. Wipe your receiver with a silicone gun cloth prior to epoxying the rail to ease removal in the future should it become necessary.
Hope this helps your groups like it did mine.

 

[rockytop65]

My humble 2 cents…
If you are shooting a Christensen Arms rifle (doesn't matter what model) that came with a scope base rail already attached, insure that the base is secure. I dealt with the exact issue you described earlier today on my Christensen MPR .338 Lapua. 4 of 6 rounds during my load development in one ragged hole and an 2 approx 3/4 out in various directions. This happened with 3 separate targets.
I have built and developed custom loads for 6 different Christensen Arms guns over the past 2 years and every single one of them developed a loose scope rail around the 50-75 round mark. I confirmed torque settings on every one of them before mounting my scopes when they were brand new.
Remove the rail and most likely you will also find that it does not perfectly mate to the receiver. That is easily fixed by scuffing the rail where it contacts the receiver and putting an extremely thin layer of 5 min epoxy on the rail on the contact areas, set the rail on the receiver when the epoxy just starts to stiffen up and torque all screws to 5in lbs. Lay a straight edge on top of the rail and make screw adjustments until the rail is perfectly straight. Leave it overnight and then remove, loctite and replace the screws at the recommended torque settings. Wipe your receiver with a silicone gun cloth prior to epoxying the rail to ease removal in the future should it become necessary.
Hope this helps your groups like it did mine.

Thanks I'll check in to that

 

[Lenny Foffa]

I load both for 270 win and 30-06 Hunting rifles and also Bench Rest rifles.
So , if you have separated and matched all your cases by weight down to 1/10th or 2 /10th of a grain ; and if you have separated and matched all you bullets by weight; and you have also measured the OGIVE length of you your bullets' from base of bullet to OGIVE; and your powder charge is exact for every load; and your OGIVE Length has been measured for every completed round ; and you have used the exact same primer for every round ; then in my opinion we are left with two other things to consider. #1 is Wind. My bench rest friends obese over this as the main cause of a flyer, and #2 its just you touching the grip or the trigger ,or shoulder pressure on the stock, ever so slightly different .That's usually the problem for me!!!