Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
there you go! I imagine that when you removed the doughnot, your groups tightened up slightly as well. Often the ring will slightly deform the bullet on seating.
gary
Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers
- Thread starter Prairie Dog50
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there you go! I imagine that when you removed the doughnot, your groups tightened up slightly as well. Often the ring will slightly deform the bullet on seating.
gary
boomtube
Well-Known Member
"That's funny, cause I could swear that I've read, on this site multiple times, the old ball powders aren't all that stable. Things like temp sensitive, etc."
I'm sure you did.
Questions: What constitues "old"? What constitues "temp sensitive"? And how much do the changes matter?
Old matters but I've used 50 year old WWII surplus ball and tubular powders (it's what Hodgedon got started in the business on) and it all worked fine, as well as some very "old" surplus ammo, so powders of all types must be fairly "stable" for longer than most of us will care.
ALL chemicals are "temp senstitive" to some degree, it's the nature of chemistry. But consider what you already know; the US military uses ball powder ammo in temps ranging from 110F+ in world deserts to -60 F in high altitude aircraft so at what temp does powder become sensitive enough to become dangerous to any of us?
Moral: Most of what you read about old or temp sensitive powders is over stated B.S. so maybe you need to listen to a better set of web experts?
I'm sure you did.
Questions: What constitues "old"? What constitues "temp sensitive"? And how much do the changes matter?
Old matters but I've used 50 year old WWII surplus ball and tubular powders (it's what Hodgedon got started in the business on) and it all worked fine, as well as some very "old" surplus ammo, so powders of all types must be fairly "stable" for longer than most of us will care.
ALL chemicals are "temp senstitive" to some degree, it's the nature of chemistry. But consider what you already know; the US military uses ball powder ammo in temps ranging from 110F+ in world deserts to -60 F in high altitude aircraft so at what temp does powder become sensitive enough to become dangerous to any of us?
Moral: Most of what you read about old or temp sensitive powders is over stated B.S. so maybe you need to listen to a better set of web experts?
Question: How many rounds have gone through the barrel since the last time it had copper cleaned out? The reason I asked is that I had problems with factory rounds flatning out primers and blowing three right out of the case. I went back to the manufacturer. They had me return the rounds that were left and tested the pressure. It was fine and the rounds were fine. They had me use a strong copper cleaner and try again. No problem. So, there can be copper build up that is not easily removed that can cause a problem. If you have been regularly removing copper please let us know so we don't have that as a possible variable.
Sounds like Savage primer problem with its dished boltfaced and unadjusted firing pin.
What you need is to take bolt apart and adjust firing pin, the dished boltface you would have to find gunsmith to true it, or just buy new boltface and hope its not dished.
Also for hot loads use magnum primers or BR primers from CCI.
What you need is to take bolt apart and adjust firing pin, the dished boltface you would have to find gunsmith to true it, or just buy new boltface and hope its not dished.
Also for hot loads use magnum primers or BR primers from CCI.
if you will check graybeards site for the primer chart, he has the primer demensions for each on it. BR-__ have the largest outside diameter of all of them. That is the primer I use in all my reloading, and for that reason. Been an enlightening subject/answers. Thanks all. jc
bowhunthard88
Well-Known Member
The best load out of my 22-250 is 33.3 gr. of Varget, with a Speer #1035, over a CCI BR2 primer.
Headspace issues sound like the most viable option right now. Easy way to check it also, without spending any extra money. Take your full length sizing die and insert a 1/8" (or close) shim on the die body; so when you screw it down, you have the die lock ring, then the shim, then the press. This 1/8" shim will essentially make you neck size only, but you have to size rounds that have been fired in that gun's chamber and not resized yet (fireformed). Load and shoot those rounds, and let us know how you made out.
Good luck!
Headspace issues sound like the most viable option right now. Easy way to check it also, without spending any extra money. Take your full length sizing die and insert a 1/8" (or close) shim on the die body; so when you screw it down, you have the die lock ring, then the shim, then the press. This 1/8" shim will essentially make you neck size only, but you have to size rounds that have been fired in that gun's chamber and not resized yet (fireformed). Load and shoot those rounds, and let us know how you made out.
Good luck!
BH- love to reload, then go pick on the p.d.s w/.204. I reload w a progressive, so the small dia. of the neck, I use ball pwdrs. have never just neck-sized, but to use a shim @ that location, to do so intriges me. Between shooting the .17HMR, .17m/2, .204, .223, the p.d.s have a hard time stayin alive. jc
Most die manufacturers instructions say to turn the sizer die down until it contacts the shell holder, and you are good to go. Sometimes, this will properly full length size your brass. The problem arises when it pushes the shoulder back too far; thus increasing headspace, allowing more space for the shell to move forward then back, on ignition.
Start with the sizer die turned up about two turns above the shell holder. Size, try the empty unprimed case in the rifle. If the bolt is difficult to put down, turn the die about 1/8th turn and try again. Keep doing this until you can feel the bolt go down easily about half way, then with just very slight resistance (thus the shoulder is just touching in the chamber) until the shell is fully chambered. At that point, lock down your die and you can F/L size forever. To neck size, keep the die at the same setting, and get a set of Skip Otto's shims from Sinclair, Put one or two of these under the die, and presto. . . .now you are sizing just the neck. Remove the shims, and you are ready to F/L size again.
Start with the sizer die turned up about two turns above the shell holder. Size, try the empty unprimed case in the rifle. If the bolt is difficult to put down, turn the die about 1/8th turn and try again. Keep doing this until you can feel the bolt go down easily about half way, then with just very slight resistance (thus the shoulder is just touching in the chamber) until the shell is fully chambered. At that point, lock down your die and you can F/L size forever. To neck size, keep the die at the same setting, and get a set of Skip Otto's shims from Sinclair, Put one or two of these under the die, and presto. . . .now you are sizing just the neck. Remove the shims, and you are ready to F/L size again.
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bowhunthard88
Well-Known Member
It makes sense, that way you can neck size, and when the case gets hard to chamber you just take the shim out and bump the shoulder and body down. You can also vary the size of the shim as to how much of the neck you want sized. You might want a smaller shim for the .204 Ruger, as it doesn't have a long neck. Either way you do it, the die should be correctly set for the headspace on your particular rifle (it was noted how to do this without headspace measurement tools in the post above this one), which is why (other than my Redding neck dies) I have a separate sizer die for each particular rifle.
Good luck.
Antonio Guerrero
New Member
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- Feb 22, 2012
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could there be a possiblility that your scale might be off, could also be a chance that in the past wrong type of powder got mixed with the one you are using. (change powder same type but a new can or lot ) check all the other alternatives you have been given from sizing , actual load, to seatting.
The closer the bullet is to the lands the more presure build up, also have you checked the neck thicknes of your cases and if you are crimping them long cases can cause excesive crimping and preassure.
The closer the bullet is to the lands the more presure build up, also have you checked the neck thicknes of your cases and if you are crimping them long cases can cause excesive crimping and preassure.
I am no expert, but doesn't the maufacturer say to not store ammo with "ball powder in large temp extreams ie. hodgdon? And with my limited experence while in Desert Storm. The ammo we used was less than 10 yrs old because the older ammo had issues with the high variable temperatures in the desert inviroment. And the tubular powders You used were cordite. For those of us that have really fired that highly corrsive and UNSTABLEgun) explosive we will never use it again. Thank you for your imput sir. But stop beeing a internet expert that has done it all. 90% Of your advice I have used to build the most accurate ammo I have used EVER. And thank god for you sir. But stop the other 10% please.
