First shot at annealing.

[rfd]

For me, brass annealing is about extending brass life, not accuracy (although that can be a possible byproduct depending on more than a few factors of cartridge components and cartridge build).

I consider flame annealing brass a craft, whereas AMP is, well, as perfect as one can get.

The prime difference 'tween the two is accuracy and cost.

With essentially the three methods of brass annealing - manual electric drill w/flame, automated flame annealing machine, and AMP - I first tried the manual and quickly realized it was too "crafty" with less consistency from brass to brass, and started using an Annealeez machine. The machine is, for me, super easy to set up for annealing any rifle brass that in turn extends my .223/5.56, .243. 6.5, .308, .45-70 brass life for what seems like forever. YMMV.

 

[rfd]

If F-Class John endorses this auto flame annealer, it's got to be good, and the price tag of $240 (or less) is very hard to beat.

 

[rfd]

Here's another flame annealer, the AGS ... under $200 ...

AGS Brass Annealer - AGS Custom Parts

AGS Custom Parts - AGS Brass Annealer

agscustomparts.com

 

[Stadoc]

Here's another flame annealer, the AGS ... under $200 ...

AGS Brass Annealer - AGS Custom Parts

AGS Custom Parts - AGS Brass Annealer

agscustomparts.com

I have the gen 1, it works

 

[Nomad8961]

AGS is what I was looking at. You can't beat that price comparatively

 

[Splitt]

Have you considered using induction heating for your annealing? I made this setup personally. I bought an aluminum reloading tray off Amazon to do this in, but you could easily drill one out to the size you need yourself. Takes a little trial and error and a couple sacrificial pieces. Induction anealing

 

[rfd]

I'd absolutely considered DIY induction annealing. The speed at which induction heats brass is my critical issue with that system, and for me it was inconsistently too easy to over anneal and ruin brass. When brass goes red, there goes the brass as its far too cooked. There is better overall control with flame annealing ... for me. YMMV.

 

[JAYgs8163]

I use the EP Integrations 2.0 machine. Easy to use and provides a consistent method. No extra wheels or pilots to buy. One stop shop and only $239. It just works!

EP 2.0 BRASS ANNEALER (patent pending) | EP INTEGRATIONS

*(READ ALL NOTES BELOW PRIOR TO PLACING ORDER)* :(patent pending) *Before you order, have you checked out our vortex optics selection where you can earn "EP BONUS BUCKS" that you can use on EP Integrations product purchases (annealer, lockdown block, or combo)!? * EP 2.0 annealer is $268 SHIPPED...

www.epintegrations.com

 

[rfd]

I'd considered the EP and for its price it performs extremely well for the casual reloader. But it lacks multi brass automation that's inherent in the Annealeez machine, so for the added $42/shipped of a Gen 4, that allows me to stack up hundreds of cases at a time. I sold off my Gen 2 and I'm now using that Gen 4 version and it's the best yet ... for me. YMMV.

 

[JAYgs8163]

Auto feeder is not of concern to me when I can do 100 pieces of brass in 7-10 minutes. Which is the most I'd do at once unless doing a batch of 5.56, which still 500 pieces take me 30-40 minutes if that. Setup of the EP machine takes maybe 3-5 minutes if that.

"Multi brass automation"? So you're annealing different cartridges at the same time automatically with your Annealeez?

My post is towards the OP who appears to be a very casual reloader.

 

[Splitt]

I'd absolutely considered DIY induction annealing. The speed at which induction heats brass is my critical issue with that system, and for me it was inconsistently too easy to over anneal and ruin brass. When brass goes red, there goes the brass as its far too cooked. There is better overall control with flame annealing ... for me. YMMV.

I originally had the same issue. That's what the PID timer is for. It automatically starts and stops the heater.
I think with flame heating, you can adjust more easily for the minor inconsistencies in the cases if you're not using the same lot.
Good luck on the testing! I'd love to hear about your findings

 

[rfd]

Auto feeder is not of concern to me when I can do 100 pieces of brass in 7-10 minutes. Which is the most I'd do at once unless doing a batch of 5.56, which still 500 pieces take me 30-40 minutes if that. Setup of the EP machine takes maybe 3-5 minutes if that.

"Multi brass automation"? So you're annealing different cartridges at the same time automatically with your Annealeez?

My post is towards the OP who appears to be a very casual reloader.

Multi brass of the same brass case - "multi" as in hundreds of the same cartridge. As I posted, that may not be a selling point for the casual reloader.

And, as I've said all along, YMMV - and that's a good thing! Do what's best for .... YOU.

 

[rfd]

I originally had the same issue. That's what the PID timer is for. It automatically starts and stops the heater.
I think with flame heating, you can adjust more easily for the minor inconsistencies in the cases if you're not using the same lot.
Good luck on the testing! I'd love to hear about your findings

Yep, for me I've found that I have more and better annealing control with a flame. It's all good, it's great to have options, we find what works best for each of us, and that may just be a tray of water and a propane torch, or a manual electric drill with a wrench socket, and a propane torch ... or an AMP ... or something in between. Automation can also be a requirement.

 

[nwmnbowhunter]

Starting with a batch of premium brass (adg, lapua, peterson) you won't notice annealing making much of a difference. It will help prolong case life and help prevent split necks.

I have seen big benefits with odd batches.... say 100 pieces of federal factory that were fired over the course of 5 years. Annealing seems to get them all on the "same page"