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First custom rifle is here and i think its a keeper!!!!!

Is brass easily obtainable and what's the going rate for it?


Roy

It isn't always available, but then what is these days? I think you can get RWS too, which is really tough brass. All the Euro brass is spendy, but worth it in my opinion.......Rich
p.s. You might think about getting some Norma .270 brass for your Sherman, It's good stuff....
 
What is the 8x68 exactly? What diameter bullet ? Any one got a pic or a blueprint?


Roy

It is 8mm (.323") google wikipedia for 8x68 RWS and there is a diagram with specs. It has been wildcatted a lot and I'm sure you could find info on that. It has 87 gr. capacity. I considered it when I designed my 30/375 S.I. but wanted more capacity and easy to get brass......Rich
 
It is 8mm (.323") google wikipedia for 8x68 RWS and there is a diagram with specs. It has been wildcatted a lot and I'm sure you could find info on that. It has 87 gr. capacity. I considered it when I designed my 30/375 S.I. but wanted more capacity and easy to get brass......Rich



Rich tell me about the 30/375!!


Roy
 
Rich tell me about the 30/375!!


Roy

It is one I developed a couple years ago based on the beltless 375 Ruger case. The case design is very similar to other Sherman designs (like yours) only it has a .530" diameter head and holds 96 grains of H20. I can reach 3100' with the 215 Bergers and it shoots one hole if I haven't had too much coffee!:D
 
MontanaRifleman..... please tell me more about the 8x68!!! Any pics of the case as well?


Roy

Here ya go.

Norma USA Reloading Brass 8x68S

For actual dimensions log into Ammoguide.

Rich, I'm not sure RWS makes it anymore. I couldn't find anyone selling it, in stock or out of stock. In fact I could hardly fins any RWS rilfe brass anywhere. Midway does not list any.
 
How difficult would it be to neck the 8x68 down to .284?


Roy

Not very, you'll probably want to do in several steps with a bushing die. You could get one from Whidden. You might have to do a little turning and reaming when done, but I necked down a 300 Dakota case to 6.5 and it doesn't look like it needs turning to me. But I definitely think reaming them after would be a good idea.
 
The 8x68 has approx. a .299" neck length. If you simply necked it to .284" with no other changes, you might have a little shorter neck than you want. If you changed the shoulder angle to 40 degrees, you would gain some neck length back. The bottom line is, if you didn't get into the case shoulder with the new neck, you shouldn't have to ream but just neck turn......rich
 
How difficult would it be to neck the 8x68 down to .284?


Roy
This easy..... :D

Another one of my new designs that's destined to be a masterpiece... I call it, the 7mm Malum.

7mmMalum_zps1ef0c72a.jpg
 
The 8x68 has approx. a .299" neck length. If you simply necked it to .284" with no other changes, you might have a little shorter neck than you want. If you changed the shoulder angle to 40 degrees, you would gain some neck length back. The bottom line is, if you didn't get into the case shoulder with the new neck, you shouldn't have to ream but just neck turn......rich

Rich, According to Ammoguide, the 6x68 has a .328 neck. Necking down will shorten it a bunch if the 15* shoulder is not sharpened.

I suppose if you didn't get any shoulder into the neck, reaming might not be necessary, but I think I might to, to remove any irregularities after sizing down. You know more about it than me.
 
Rich, According to Ammoguide, the 6x68 has a .328 neck. Necking down will shorten it a bunch if the 15* shoulder is not sharpened.

I suppose if you didn't get any shoulder into the neck, reaming might not be necessary, but I think I might to, to remove any irregularities after sizing down. You know more about it than me.

I was reading some really fine metric print! Could have been my eyes, or my metric to std. conversion:D At any rate, I haven't done the math but I think you would still end up with an acceptable shoulder?.....Rich
 
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