YOU COULDN'T SEE THE CROW cause the reticle covered it up!
The FFP reticle in the PST 6-24, which the OP is asking about, is less than 1.5" thick at 1000 yds. Thin enough even for crows—though note the OP did not ask about crow or P-dog hunting. The
best choices for that, or benchrest, etc, aren't necessarily the
best choices for big game hunting.
but still consider the ability to range at any power a week argument.
I agree with you. It is a terribly weak argument. Please take note that you are the only guy making it. "Ranging stuff" amounts to around 1% or less of my use of the reticle. I'm much more concerned about the other 99%, a large portion of which was included in the OP's original question.
Does this mean I can only hunt with buddies that have the same scope FFP/SFP, that I do? Or that I have to pressure them to purchase a scope identical to mine?
By far and away, most scopes are SFP in the USA. Seems like a swim against the tide to expect everyone else to purchase FFP.
FFP/SFP has nothing to do with this. If you or your buddy has a SFP he'll need to be on a specific power or do math to use the corrections you call or you'll need to be on a specific power or do math when calling corrections for him. But there is no need for you to match—either one could be FFP or SFP and it will not matter if you do it right. Except for the fact the guy with the FFP may be less likely to make a mistake.
What you need to "match" with your buddies is Mil or MOA. When you don't match your spotter in this respect, it does add difficulty—but again, that has nothing to do with FFP/SFP. Since there are many, many times as many rifle scopes and spotting scopes out there with Mil-based reticles than MOA reticles, one might say that choosing MOA is "swimming against the tide" though with the addition of Vortex offering MOA at a reasonable price this should be less of an issue. It really doesn't matter which as long as you and your buddies match. But again, that's a completely separate subject from FFP vs. SFP.
The size of the cross hair is best controlled in SFP. Covers less target at long range, and more at close range. SFP has that advantage over FFP. This is something I like in SFP scopes when taking long shots.
This is true and it is one definite advantage of SFP for hunting crows or P-dogs. I don't do much of that so it doesn't interest me much—1.5-2" thick at 1000 yds is more than thin enough for anything I'd ever want to do with a big game rifle.
And now that I dial turrets for corrective dope, the FFP really offers me no advantage. Most LRH will agree that dialing turrets is advantageous for the really long shots.
But if a fella wants to use the cross-hair for hold-offs and hold-overs out to 800 yds, I can see where the FFP offers some advantages. I wasn't a turret twister until about 1 1/2 years ago, and used mil-dot or IOR MP-8 reticles for holdovers. Did OK that way. But I now prefer adjusting the turrets for the corrective dope. I see only disadvantages to FFP for the turret twisters.
I am a turret twister. When I feel like twisting the turret. Mainly, elevation for longer ranges or for medium ranges when I have the time.
It's really nice to be capable of shots without though. When something steps out at 400 yds-600 yds, if you can't just point and shoot you're really handicapping yourself. When I'm watching a large opening or edge of a treeline, etc, I usually take many ranges of landmarks beforehand. So if something steps out somewhere in the mid-range there's a good chance I'll know how far it is (or if you have a buddy who will be spotting, he'll probably be doing the ranging as well) so any time spent not getting behind the rifle and getting the animal in the crosshairs is wasted.
I do like to make custom BDC's for the turrets for each specific hunt which increases the speed of dialing greatly, but there's still nothing faster than simply pointing and shooting. Being able to do that quickly on a mid-range shot
with the scope set to a reasonable power so you can find the animal in it quickly is an added capability that can really make the difference on a hunt. If there is zero chance that added capability could ever be useful in the way you hunt, then that's fine. But just because you wouldn't use a capability doesn't mean it has no value for everybody else.
Wind conditions are evidently quite different between your shooting and hunting conditions and mine. The majority of my long range shots have not involved any significant wind.
Here is the biggie. All the above about holding over is probably only 9% of the 99%. The other 90% is this. I can't remember the last time I took a long range shot that needed no wind correction. And like the OP, I much prefer to hold it with the reticle.
It just changes so fast. Not only changing magnitude but often completely changing direction from the time I get behind the rifle to the time I pull the trigger. I've tried chasing such conditions with the windage dial but find it extremely frustrating. I simply do much better holding with the reticle.
And even when it doesn't change, I do my final "wind call" while looking through the scope. I'll measure it where I'm at and take my best guess, but when I get in the scope I can see mirage movement and foliage, etc, on the way to the target much better. I'll make my final call, adjust hold and fire. That just works much better for me than trying to dial, then rushing to get back on the target and shoot quickly before something changes. To give you an idea of typical conditions in which I practice, here's a video I just shot a few days ago:
YouTube - 300 Ultra Mag First Round Hits from 800 and 1100 YDS
Benchrest shooters who shoot at the same target from the same range over and over again can learn where to hold on the target for what wind conditions. When you shoot different sized targets and different ranges, you're much better off correcting in MOA or Mils instead of holding off in "estimated inches" just as you are for elevation. For this a good reticle can be an extremely good tool.
I would never say my way is the only way, or even the best way. It's just the best way I have personally found so far for me. That's why every time these threads come up I ask "How do you do it?"—I'm always hoping to find an easier way to do something.
And of course most importantly, the OP specifically said he wants to hold wind. I guarantee you, when he cranks the PST up to 24X in conditions like the above, he'll be greeted with a pretty crappy view of the target. Dialing down will be a good idea if for no other reason than to keep from giving himself a headache. The first time he does that and realizes he now has to do mental gymnastics in order to hold for wind he will want to scream at the people who told him to get the scope in SFP. Been there, done that.
Also on a hunt, able to hold the wind quickly on a shot
with the scope set to a reasonable power so you can find the animal in it quickly is helpful. Not only getting on quickly but having a little situational awareness after the shot. They all don't do a backflip and drop on the spot at the shot like they do on TV. If the animal isn't extremely far away and decides to take off after the shot, trying to find him again while being stuck on 24X might not be the best idea.
And then there are low light conditions.... Yet another reason a fixed 24X scope may not be quite as useful as it could be....
When a guy is planning to use the reticle for such things, turning the scope into a fixed power any time he would like to do so for fear of largely imagined "disadvantages" just makes no sense. And for some of us who have learned the hard way seems downright idiotic.
I have a list of people with condescending, elitist, accusatory attitudes such as those you've displayed in your posts who will not be invited into my home, business, camp or government a second time.
Sadly, you probably have a wealth of knowledge and experience that I crave to aquire, but you've lost me as a student. People who assume they are smarter than others are innefective teachers.
It's odd that it doesn't bother you for a person (YOU) to make a snap judgment based upon very little information, jump to a conclusion about a guy's character, proceed into name calling before showing himself to be the ultimate
condescending elitist with the "I'm too good for you. You're not invited…." bit. Maybe you should start a list of those people with your name at the top.
For somebody so concerned with manors, you should learn good ones might be displayed by spending a whopping 10 seconds with the search function to obtain yourself a clue before launching a personal attack at somebody. Had you done so in this case, you would realize a plethora of "teaching" on this subject has already taken place. You might have put forth the effort to get yourself caught up on the conversation before sticking your foot in your mouth.
You may have discovered I have spent many hours of my valuable time "teaching" on this subject (and others) right here on this board already. You would also see a large portion of the time that could have been used for "teaching" was spent instead arguing over false statements/generalizations made by those who readily admit they have precious little or absolutely no experience with the subject matter.
Specifically regarding the dead-horse matter of FFP reticles only use being for "ranging stuff," which has taken on a "nails on the chalkboard"-like sound, you would have seen that just a tiny bit of frustration on my part was more than justified had you done your due diligence to discover the context.
So if I have "lost you as a student," that is unfortunate. But it is your loss. I feel my time is best spent sticking to facts, data and explaining techniques to the best of my ability based upon experience rather than worrying about the delicate sensibilities of some. If that's not "good enough" for you, that is your choice. It's up to you do decide what's more important to you.