Ffp vs sfp

[Greyfox]

I have owned and used both for hunting and competition. Personal preference and shooting style always rules the day. My own preference is for SFP for hunting where I prefer a constant reticle orientation, dial for the longer shots, and usually choose only a couple of power settings that are easily divisible for windage holds using the reticle. Also, given the price of FFP scopes are generally higher, I prefer to put the extra money into glass/mechanical quality. I find FFP is an obvious choice for most tactical shooting/competition(ie. PRS). Power setting changes are frequent as is the use of the reticle for holds.....and often mandated for certain stages; all under time restraints. Just my preferences...

 

[Possum Cop]

I was recently talking to a PRS shooter that likes the FFP. He told me that it is easier to make second shot hits. I said why don't you concentrate on making the first shot hits lol. He was not amused.

I have both and prefer second focal plane for shooting small targets at long distance. The first focal plane covers the small targets up so you have to guess where to shoot, I don't like that concept....so in this situation I definitely give the second focal plane a heads up.
I mainly shoot Nightforce NXS, NX8 and Leupold Mark 4 and 5HD scopes.
I've never had an issue hitting targets while changing power settings on the SFP.
No math to do just work your loads up, adjust your drop and shoot.
A 15" drop at 400 yards is a 15" drop no matter what focal plane or power you are shooting on. You just adjust for it and shoot.

 

[jarnold37]

I was recently talking to a PRS shooter that likes the FFP. He told me that it is easier to make second shot hits. I said why don't you concentrate on making the first shot hits lol. He was not amused.

I have both and prefer second focal plane for shooting small targets at long distance. The first focal plane covers the small targets up so you have to guess where to shoot, I don't like that concept....so in this situation I definitely give the second focal plane a heads up.
I mainly shoot Nightforce NXS, NX8 and Leupold Mark 4 and 5HD scopes.
I've never had an issue hitting targets while changing power settings on the SFP.
No math to do just work your loads up, adjust your drop and shoot.
A 15" drop at 400 yards is a 15" drop no matter what focal plane or power you are shooting on. You just adjust for it and shoot.

I am old school. Dont hold it against me. I like SFP and do not like hash marks and holding over. I have both but prefer a cross hair and very small dot. My sight picture is clear and uncluttered. I click for all long shots and hold right on.

 

[Possum Cop]

I am old school. Dont hold it against me. I like SFP and do not like hash marks and holding over. I have both but prefer a cross hair and very small dot. My sight picture is clear and uncluttered. I click for all long shots and hold right on.

I agree with you 100%.

 

[D-mon]

Sfp make sens when you are using your turrets for wind age and elevation. You can dial up and hold for the wind , but that starts to become a bit random when you hunt different style and sizes of animal . Where I see a disadvantage with sfp, is when you do not dial up and only use a hold over reticle that only works for one magnification. Quite often it is at the highest magnification. And that does not work well on two occasions: when there is heavy mirage and when close to the hours of darkness. In both cases you have to dial down the magnification which throw away the hold over graduation the scope was originally set up for. Of course you can practice ( a lot) and stick all kind of reminders on your butt stock, but one day or another if you have to rush a shot that will turn into a miss.
Where the ffp shines is for hold over with the reticle. You can not stuff the magnification either you hold for wind or elevation or both.
I understand the complaint of some regarding certain reticles covering a good portion of the target. But the scope industry is evolving and there are now some reticles with more clever designs which resolve that problem.
At high magnification they are very fine in the middle. At low magnification the outside posts become thicker but still leaving a good opening on the middle.
This nightforce one is a good exemple of what can be achieved. I just wish it was available on higher magnification scopes:

https://www.nightforceoptics.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Reticle_Spec_Sheets/NF_FC-DMx.pdf

The Burris veracity reticle is another reticle that went in the right direction: https://www.burrisoptics.com/scopes/veracity-riflescopes-series/veracity-riflescope-2-10x42mm

If the scope is not illuminated, then the thick post at lower magnification are definitely an advantage when hunting close to the hours of darkness. First because you can see the reticle, and second because you should not risk taking a shot at long distance ,therefore if you take a shot at an animal below a 100yrds , even at a lower magnification you will not cover the animal and the thick post will still allow you to " bracket" the body of the animal.

With an illuminated reticle, that does not present a problem any more, as you can simply put the red dot on the body of the animal at any magnification that you see fit for the purpose.

 

[jarnold37]

Sfp make sens when you are using your turrets for wind age and elevation. You can dial up and hold for the wind , but that starts to become a bit random when you hunt different style and sizes of animal . Where I see a disadvantage with sfp, is when you do not dial up and only use a hold over reticle that only works for one magnification. Quite often it is at the highest magnification. And that does not work well on two occasions: when there is heavy mirage and when close to the hours of darkness. In both cases you have to dial down the magnification which throw away the hold over graduation the scope was originally set up for. Of course you can practice ( a lot) and stick all kind of reminders on your butt stock, but one day or another if you have to rush a shot that will turn into a miss.
Where the ffp shines is for hold over with the reticle. You can not stuff the magnification either you hold for wind or elevation or both.
I understand the complaint of some regarding certain reticles covering a good portion of the target. But the scope industry is evolving and there are now some reticles with more clever designs which resolve that problem.
At high magnification they are very fine in the middle. At low magnification the outside posts become thicker but still leaving a good opening on the middle.
This nightforce one is a good exemple of what can be achieved. I just wish it was available on higher magnification scopes:

https://www.nightforceoptics.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Reticle_Spec_Sheets/NF_FC-DMx.pdf

The Burris veracity reticle is another reticle that went in the right direction: https://www.burrisoptics.com/scopes/veracity-riflescopes-series/veracity-riflescope-2-10x42mm

If the scope is not illuminated, then the thick post at lower magnification are definitely an advantage when hunting close to the hours of darkness. First because you can see the reticle, and second because you should not risk taking a shot at long distance ,therefore if you take a shot at an animal below a 100yrds , even at a lower magnification you will not cover the animal and the thick post will still allow you to " bracket" the body of the animal.

With an illuminated reticle, that does not present a problem any more, as you can simply put the red dot on the body of the animal at any magnification that you see fit for the purpose.

Yes but as you said "if you hold over" I tend to think that having a ballistic chart and dialing to the exact yardage is a little less of a guess. A trained shooter said yes if we have time we will click but when in a hurry to send a round we can get close enough by using Mark's and holdover.

 

[Possum Cop]

Yes but as you said "if you hold over" I tend to think that having a ballistic chart and dialing to the exact yardage is a little less of a guess. A trained shooter said yes if we have time we will click but when in a hurry to send a round we can get close enough by using Mark's and holdover.

I've never had a problem holding over with a SFP.
Army trained using mil reticle MOA adjustments when I got in. Leupold Mark 4 variable power. Never missed anything that I intended to hit.
Example: If I zeroed my issued 168 grain bullet at 300 yards I would have a 73.2" drop at 600 yards.
You just hold over or dial and dope the wind and fire. If you dope 73.2" on 5, 10 or 16 power it's still
73" is 73" no matter if you use SFP or FFP.
You can work out your drop pretty easy on lower or higher powers just knowing how many inches it takes in the substend to reach your desired drop.

 

[skipglo]

I purchased a FFP this year and thought I might not like it based on all the opinions I have read, but surprisingly I like it. So, "don't knock it until you try it". Just saying.

Do you need a Hug Rick? I can UPS one to you! Anything to help a Brother

 

[LanceK]

I have gone back and forth on this. If I get a fixed power scope I don't have to worry about it at all!

 

[Possum Cop]

I have gone back and forth on this. If I get a fixed power scope I don't have to worry about it at all!

That's right.

 

[Jon Bischof]

I have been using SFP scopes with ballistic holdovers for years with great success and precision---but at intermediate range---not true long range. The trick is to Zero at longer range than 100 so that your holdovers are pretty close at farther ranges. At 30 yards or 100, it ends up not making any difference. But it gets you closer to exact at ranges under 500 yards.

I used holdover stadia on Burris Ballistic Mil-Dot to take a buck at 334 yards and it couldn't have been more spot on if I had dialed it. But when hunting a cut-over in Arkansas, you often don't have time to dial, so you have to know where your shot is going to hit at various ranges without dialing. It is not truly long range, but it is what you have to deal with in a matter of seconds in that terrain. If you can't get on him and shoot quick, He might as well be 3,000 yards away because you will never kill him.

I'm certainly not anti-long range; but when there's lots of cover and limited shots, you have to be prepared to make the shot quickly immediately without any ciphering or dialing. Yardages should be rangefound before you see the Buck so you know the range and can shoot quickly. Of course that usually only works if you hunt from a stand or a familiar set up.

 

[Possum Cop]

I have been using SFP scopes with ballistic holdovers for years with great success and precision---but at intermediate range---not true long range. The trick is to Zero at longer range than 100 so that your holdovers are pretty close at farther ranges. At 30 yards or 100, it ends up not making any difference. But it gets you closer to exact at ranges under 500 yards.

I used holdover stadia on Burris Ballistic Mil-Dot to take a buck at 334 yards and it couldn't have been more spot on if I had dialed it. But when hunting a cut-over in Arkansas, you often don't have time to dial, so you have to know where your shot is going to hit at various ranges without dialing. It is not truly long range, but it is what you have to deal with in a matter of seconds in that terrain. If you can't get on him and shoot quick, He might as well be 3,000 yards away because you will never kill him.

I'm certainly not anti-long range; but when there's lots of cover and limited shots, you have to be prepared to make the shot quickly immediately without any ciphering or dialing. Yardages should be rangefound before you see the Buck so you know the range and can shoot quickly. Of course that usually only works if you hunt from a stand or a familiar set up.

I agree with you on that. I have range cards hanging on each of my windows in my box stands. Lol I believe it gives me that edge on quick shots.

 

[Jon Bischof]

I'm sure it does save you a lot of time. but guys who hunt at ranges over 500 yd are hunting in places where they can see the deer travel and they usually have as much time as they need to dial in correct drop solution. I envy those hunters who can hunt in places where they can see game 800 yd away.

 

[DartonJager]

This is exactly for my why I ditched my FFP scope for hunting. In the twilight hours when you have to roll your scope way down in power to get that last little bit of light, the crosshairs are so tiny, I didn't like it. With that being said, all other times of the day it was perfectly fine.

May I ask if you ever gave a try or experimented with an illuminated FFP reticle at low power in low light?
Not trying to change your mind just wondering if you tried an illuminated reticle and still found it to be unusable in low light and low power.