huntsman22
Well-Known Member
Yeah, but…… do have those super cool quick-grip clamps?
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Favorite anti-cant level
- Thread starter DanMan
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Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
I might have to try one. I make shot into the 500yds range without a level., Didn't seem to have any problem. Going move range out to 700yds or so. I'll have to see if it makes any difference.
I have a Flatline Ops Halo level.
Clamps to scope tube. Tucks in nicely on the front portion of the tube right behind the turret.
In perfect view visible while sighting, don't have to move out of the scope or move your eyes up at all. Sighting eye stays dead on the target.
Clamps to scope tube. Tucks in nicely on the front portion of the tube right behind the turret.
In perfect view visible while sighting, don't have to move out of the scope or move your eyes up at all. Sighting eye stays dead on the target.
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Mikecr
Well-Known Member
I really need the level visible, dead on, just prior to trigger pull.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
Horizonal error;
www.ssusa.org
Level the reticle;
www.realavid.com
I have found that placing a bubble level on top of the elevation dial does not assure a level or plumb reticle.
Using the info in the first attachment:
The midrange trajectory of the pointy 140 grain Hornady ELDM bullet, having a sight height of 1.7 inches, MV of 2950 fps, at 1000 yards is close to 90 inches (my 6.5-06). The estimator for a line of sight thru bore is 4 times the mid-range trajectory or 90 * 4 = 360 inches (dimension PT). The calculation for a 3 degree cant would be the line of sight displacement * sine of the cant or 360 * .052 = 19 inches horizontal. The vertical displacement is negligible. This is another factor to consider when shooting deers & such at long range like 1000.
For a shot at a pop can size rodent at 650 yards with a easily overlooked 1 degree cant using a 87 Vmax at 3475 fps at 650 yards - the mid range trajectory is 26 inches > 26 * 4 = 104, sine 1 degree = .017, 104 * .017 = 1.8 inches. Another factor in addition to wind. The rodent target would be somewhat less than 4 inches wide - wait until they are belly to dirt before taking the shot - most misses are left/right.
Upon leveling the reticle install the bubble level thingy on the scope. Placing a level on top of the elevation dial/knob won't work so good if the reticle is tilted in relation to the adjustment knob/dial. Some of my Leupold scopes are affected with tilted reticles.
An NRA Shooting Sports Journal | Effects of Cant
Understanding rifle cant includes understanding physics, but the most errors come from not holding the rifle bore axis and scope axis on a vertical plane
Level the reticle;
Level-Right® Pro
ACCURATE SCOPE MOUNTING MADE EASY A level reticle is critical to long range Accuracy. For longer shots a canted (or unlevel) reticle will pull or push the bullets trajectory off of vertical center. It gets worse the further the distance increases. A level scope means that the reticle...
www.realavid.com
I have found that placing a bubble level on top of the elevation dial does not assure a level or plumb reticle.
Using the info in the first attachment:
The midrange trajectory of the pointy 140 grain Hornady ELDM bullet, having a sight height of 1.7 inches, MV of 2950 fps, at 1000 yards is close to 90 inches (my 6.5-06). The estimator for a line of sight thru bore is 4 times the mid-range trajectory or 90 * 4 = 360 inches (dimension PT). The calculation for a 3 degree cant would be the line of sight displacement * sine of the cant or 360 * .052 = 19 inches horizontal. The vertical displacement is negligible. This is another factor to consider when shooting deers & such at long range like 1000.
For a shot at a pop can size rodent at 650 yards with a easily overlooked 1 degree cant using a 87 Vmax at 3475 fps at 650 yards - the mid range trajectory is 26 inches > 26 * 4 = 104, sine 1 degree = .017, 104 * .017 = 1.8 inches. Another factor in addition to wind. The rodent target would be somewhat less than 4 inches wide - wait until they are belly to dirt before taking the shot - most misses are left/right.
Upon leveling the reticle install the bubble level thingy on the scope. Placing a level on top of the elevation dial/knob won't work so good if the reticle is tilted in relation to the adjustment knob/dial. Some of my Leupold scopes are affected with tilted reticles.
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Mikecr
Well-Known Member
This is true, and the reticle is often not plumb with elevation dialing. They can be skewed.
I'm an elevation dialer, SFP scopes.
Given this, I do not rely on RETICLE plumb, and instead, my ScopLevel is set for ADJUSTMENT plumb.
I find this and set it when I do scope testing.
The rest, stock, action, bases, rings, turrets, just don't matter.
And even reticle plumb doesn't matter -unless you vertical hold off with it.
KyCarl
Well-Known Member
I have a MPA chassis with a built in level that works pretty well.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I've never used a level, but I've not yet shot much at the distances where one would be beneficial so I'm following this with interest and looking up every suggestion.
This was something that several posters in a recent thread could not accept.
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- Nov 25, 2012
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I've been using the Vortex Pro lightweight level for several years now on three different long range hunting rifles and really like them.
Vortex Optics Lo Pro Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device 34mm Scope Matte
When it comes to long-range shooting every little detail counts. Having a quality level indicator is crucial to your accuracy. This slim, low-profile...
ads.midwayusa.com
Ed
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
What is ;your mounting devise or who makes it. That seem to me a better way to mounting a level. I don't like things sticking out anymore than has to be on a rifle. Your attachment seen to able to lay it down on the scope.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
I mount my level near the front left side of the scope & view it with left eye just before breaking the shot. Each to their own, getting the bubble at some distance from the eye makes it easier to view for me. The bubble then becomes a semi-permanent scope fixture being lined up with the reticle. I have a low-price Vortex bubble level and see no need to upgrade. I lapped the inside bubble ring. I also have a flip up bubble level as shown.
Bloopy high trajectory cartridges & high mounted scopes exasperate the cant error. I will make up an excel spread sheet to determine cant error. I use the Hornady ballistic calculator both 4DOF & G1 BC to determine mid-range trajectory heights then multiply that by 4. A 3 degree cant can make for a close to 2 foot windage (left-right) error at 1000 depending on ballistics. Looking at this stuff justifies a bubble level. The very best would be to have an internal level device (inside scope) so reticle & any cant could be easily viewed. Looking at the bubble with my left eye & reticle with my right eye might make me cross eyed or mess up my brain internals.
The bubble thingy helps when shooting at targets having out of plumb hangers or targets near tilted T bar (like 3 degree) fence posts.
Bloopy high trajectory cartridges & high mounted scopes exasperate the cant error. I will make up an excel spread sheet to determine cant error. I use the Hornady ballistic calculator both 4DOF & G1 BC to determine mid-range trajectory heights then multiply that by 4. A 3 degree cant can make for a close to 2 foot windage (left-right) error at 1000 depending on ballistics. Looking at this stuff justifies a bubble level. The very best would be to have an internal level device (inside scope) so reticle & any cant could be easily viewed. Looking at the bubble with my left eye & reticle with my right eye might make me cross eyed or mess up my brain internals.
The bubble thingy helps when shooting at targets having out of plumb hangers or targets near tilted T bar (like 3 degree) fence posts.
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