False Positive Pressure Signs

[BrentM]

Exactly why I use a PTG bolt face cutting and or lapping tool. Sometimes both. With my bighorn the ejector is a not a plunger hole so the issue isn't there, but any that use a plunger the hole needs to be checked.

 

[TheZigor]

@Chaddrx I have a defiance action and get the exact same marking on my brass. I was wondering the same thing but always thought it was pressure. Orkan thank you for this PSA

 

[rm76]

@Chaddrx I have a defiance action and get the exact same marking on my brass. I was wondering the same thing but always thought it was pressure. Orkan thank you for this PSA

Me too! A new defiant anti x action in 6.5 creed that is doing the same thing plus a swipe mark also sometimes. Will the burr resolve itself eventually or is intervention necessary?

 

[BrentM]

Me too! A new defiant anti x action in 6.5 creed that is doing the same thing plus a swipe mark also sometimes. Will the burr resolve itself eventually or is intervention necessary?

It's hardened and treated metal vs brass. It will take long long time to wear it down. True it to the bolt face is the best course of action

 

[orkan]

It's hardened and treated metal vs brass. It will take long long time to wear it down. True it to the bolt face is the best course of action

^ this.

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[BrentM]

^ this.

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Can you chime in on the thoughts about about the truing process..... Truing the bolt face to the action face etc. Seems that isn't needed on CNC actions etc but of course when truing an OEM, bolt face, lug face, and action face are trued as a package. I've never trued a custom action fully and the bighorn I run uses a floating design so it's not that critical.

 

[Revolting Peasant]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

 

[Buckys]

OP, can you post a pic of the ejector pin prior to deburring?

 

[orkan]

Can you chime in on the thoughts about about the truing process..... Truing the bolt face to the action face etc. Seems that isn't needed on CNC actions etc but of course when truing an OEM, bolt face, lug face, and action face are trued as a package. I've never trued a custom action fully and the bighorn I run uses a floating design so it's not that critical.

You know, I used to think I could just spend enough money on an action... and I wouldn't have to worry about it.

Fact is, I was wrong. Every action manufacturer I'm aware of, has turned out a bad action, more than one... and some have taken to it as a matter of course. In the last year, I've seen issues with literally every single company that produces an all-integral action. So the answer isn't with the action manufacturers... but a smith that will actually take the time to evaluate and fix them.

The action manufacturers either can't, or won't. Doesn't much matter which it is. That's why I'm using Stratton Custom Rifles. Every action... it all gets checked, and anything that's wrong... gets fixed, or the rifle doesn't leave the shop. They actually get test fired. A lot of shops, don't even fire what they build. Not even once. People don't realize how important that is, until they experience a problem like this.

Then when the customer finds the problem... it's a never-ending game of "well ship it back and we'll take a look."

So to sum up, an action is either all the way right, or it's not. There's no way you can know, without checking it all. A rifle isn't complete, until it has a trigger installed and perfectly timed, with confirmed pinfall and no drag. A barrel needs to be installed with a chamber confirmed true to the bolt face. This is just a fly by of what's needed... but the smith either knows it and DOES IT EVERY TIME... or he doesn't.

OP, can you post a pic of the ejector pin prior to deburring?

Didn't take a pic ahead of time. Fact is, there wasn't much to see without extreme magnification. By the time I discovered it, the burr had already accumulated a pile of brass anyway, so a pic would be a moot point. The burr was on the ejector pin hole, not the ejector pin. The pin is unmodified.

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[Taylorbok]

I had a Tikka action the the plunger had a burr on it and was scuffing the brass, Removed plunger and ran it on some high grit sand paper and polished it off. good to go.

 

[Rflshootr]

It looks to me that you also have a burr around the firing pin hole. I can also see it on the primer. If you do stone it off flat, do not break the edge of the hole. Leave it sharp.

 

[Rflshootr]

This is why the video I made about beating up your brass is so important to understand. Once you experience plastic deformation of a portion of the case that isn't designed to have elastic deformation... it will never go back. The very definition of plastic deformation. If you experience heavy bolt lift... that case will NEVER be what it once was.

These bolt face issues are the cause of so much frustration among shooters. Thus the need for this PSA.

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Exactly why I advocate fireforming with the bullet jammed in the lands on the first firing, with the case head held firmly against the bolt face. If everything on the action and barrel is square, you'll have a good piece of brass. You only get 1 chance to get good, square, straight brass.

 

[Dieselsteve]

I have a anti with that problem threw in the safe last year to be forgotten.

 

[Terry Lightle]

Thanks for the heads up