So you never tried any other powder?
Handloading is all about finding the combination that best works for your rifle. You cannot be discouraged just because you cannot get the accuracy goal out of 1 powder (IMR 4064).
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Expected accuracy of featherweight contour
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Handloading is all about finding the combination that best works for your rifle. You cannot be discouraged just because you cannot get the accuracy goal out of 1 powder (IMR 4064).
Rick Richard
Well-Known Member
If you have spent any time on this site, you will notice most reloaders shoot a variety of loads in many cases before they get the desired accuracy. So, it Looks like you may have to experiment with a different projectile with that powder. Remember, change only one variable at a time on your load build.
By the way, have you tried 168 AMAX yet? I found this bullet to be very forgiving with 4064 . Just a thought.
By the way, have you tried 168 AMAX yet? I found this bullet to be very forgiving with 4064 . Just a thought.
johnnyk
Well-Known Member
From the looks of the targets your rifle/barrel is pretty much a 1 MOA rifle. I don't reckon that too bad for a feather weight barrel and that might be all your going to get out of the reloading components you're using.
I know IMR4064 has been a staple for the .308 Win for a long time. Not sure about the Bisley or what it is. I would try some more powders close to the range of IMR4064.
I had a stubborn .308 once, could not get it to shoot anything inside an inch and a half. It was a new factory barrel and I tried every powder I had and even bought a couple to try in it. Several different bullets and primer types later I decided to turn my attention to the rifle. I epoxy bedded the action and free floated the barrel, adjusted the trigger to 2lbs and that got it a little tighter, about a inch, but not what I had envisioned this heavy barreled, target rifle was supposed to do. I mean, come on, it's a dang .308. At this point I had spent close to a year troubleshooting this rifle.
In my searching the internet I came upon a gent who used a round headed, brass screw, valve grinding compound and a cordless drill to polish the crown. At first I was skeptical but then figured what the heck do I have to loose.
I polished the crown using the above mentioned items and wa-lah! the rifle thought it was a benchrest rifle! At 100yds it would put five in the same hole, or at least touching; using Varget, CCI BR2's and 175gn SMK's.
Sorry for being long winded but don't overlook the small things and don't be afraid to try something different. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
P.S. About a month after I finally got it shooting I pulled the barrel and installed a Shilen 6mmBR Norma. I still have the barrel and have considered putting it back on a couple of times.
I know IMR4064 has been a staple for the .308 Win for a long time. Not sure about the Bisley or what it is. I would try some more powders close to the range of IMR4064.
I had a stubborn .308 once, could not get it to shoot anything inside an inch and a half. It was a new factory barrel and I tried every powder I had and even bought a couple to try in it. Several different bullets and primer types later I decided to turn my attention to the rifle. I epoxy bedded the action and free floated the barrel, adjusted the trigger to 2lbs and that got it a little tighter, about a inch, but not what I had envisioned this heavy barreled, target rifle was supposed to do. I mean, come on, it's a dang .308. At this point I had spent close to a year troubleshooting this rifle.
In my searching the internet I came upon a gent who used a round headed, brass screw, valve grinding compound and a cordless drill to polish the crown. At first I was skeptical but then figured what the heck do I have to loose.
I polished the crown using the above mentioned items and wa-lah! the rifle thought it was a benchrest rifle! At 100yds it would put five in the same hole, or at least touching; using Varget, CCI BR2's and 175gn SMK's.
Sorry for being long winded but don't overlook the small things and don't be afraid to try something different. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
P.S. About a month after I finally got it shooting I pulled the barrel and installed a Shilen 6mmBR Norma. I still have the barrel and have considered putting it back on a couple of times.
Husky user
Well-Known Member
I have a Weatherby Backcountry in 6.5 RPM.
I never shoot more than 3 shot groups,because a 5 shot group goes to hell.
Its a hunting rifle,I hope I never have to shoot more than 3 times at an animal!
I never shoot more than 3 shot groups,because a 5 shot group goes to hell.
Its a hunting rifle,I hope I never have to shoot more than 3 times at an animal!
Frenchie1
Well-Known Member
First off, Beautiful rifle Man! I cannot speak to the .308 part but I have a #2 contour (skinny one) in a Benchmark 24" bbl on my custom .270win and it shoots 1/2" and better on a regular basis but I do let it cool considerably between shots, knowing the heat factors in heavily. I typically only shoot 3 shot groups but have shot 5 shot a few times with the same consideration for cooling between shots. Mine will climb vertically and not horizontally though if I do try rushing the in-between time. Good luck and I bet someone on here will help you identify the issue because the thin tubes can shoot tight groups.
Some do I don't. Never seen much difference and I always check a new rifle I'm working on. I was taught 60 inch pounds back in early 90's. I never had one for guns only for motor toys and bought one for scopes because YOU HAVE TO HAVE ONE a couple years ago. Almost never use it and have never used it for actions. I was taught use only your thumb and first d*#k beater with a screw driver as tight as can and don't flippen horse it down. With the Allen and torx head it's the same.
waveslayer
Well-Known Member
I'd try some Varget with the 175's. That 11.25 twist is magic with the 175's and Varget. Anything around 43-44 grains at 2.8- 2.9 depending on your chamber
I also think the primers can and will make a difference in my experience.
Try a lighter bullet....my noodle barrels all liked them lite....
A little more speed from the lighter bullets vs the slower heavier....
Noodles don't like every bullet or every powder......
But a good load starts with a good fps..and then the lenght...at least they did in mine....
2 65284s....same Lapua brass(separated of course)...same powder(rl23)..withing .2grs.....but one shoots at 3.12" other at 2.93" oal......
Fine tuning......
A little more speed from the lighter bullets vs the slower heavier....
Noodles don't like every bullet or every powder......
But a good load starts with a good fps..and then the lenght...at least they did in mine....
2 65284s....same Lapua brass(separated of course)...same powder(rl23)..withing .2grs.....but one shoots at 3.12" other at 2.93" oal......
Fine tuning......
You are correct, but trying to address one component at a time.
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Skinny barrels get hot real fast and even proper bedding and floating can't change that.
I agree tweaking the seating depth might tighten things up a bit further but if you're looking to shoot dime size 5 shot groups with it I think you'll burn it up before you get there.
What matters in the field are 3 quick shots, one to kill and if necessary two for follow ups in the event your shot placement is off.
Under most circumstances you'll almost never be in a position to shoot more than that at a moving target before you lose it in cover.
slikmrc
Well-Known Member
You look to be getting good velocity with the 22" barrel. I may have missed it but how far are you off the lands with the Berger bullet? You should have 3.0 mag length with this rifle. Does the Bisley chamber have a longer free bore than SAAMI? I would try a slower powder first and if that doesn't help go to a heavier bullet to see if it helps. Would think that setup should shoot .5" or better.
