Epoxy in recoil lug

[Bucklowery]

You've clearly never disassembled a Tikka.

I have not. I have learned something new as usually from the people on this site.

Thanks
buck

 

[jarnold37]

I need to epoxy in the recoil lug on my tikka. I don't want to bed it. Is there a specific epoxy that would work better? Superglue? 2 part epoxy like jb weld? Is there something that's permanent but removable if needed? There is very little wiggle room, maybe 1/16" in the hole the recoil lug drops into.

If you have "wiggle room" around your recoil lug, accuracy will suffer. Each shot will waller (wallow) and increase movement. The entire action needs to be bedded for the least amount of movement. Even with lug properly bedded there will be flex of action and screws and will cause more and more movement. Lug should only contact on back of lug which necessitates needed support of entire action.

 

[Clem Bronkoski]

Devcon 10110 - just a bit where you need it and use a good amount of release agent. I like to use Johnson's paste wax. You should 'roughen up' the area first and you can remove any excess later after it sets.

 

[JDD]

There is only one thing worse than a un bed rifle , one that was done in a half *** manner! The plastic stocks as you have found out are not the end all of rifle design.


A you will need a release agent . A good wax too coats with time to dry between first and second , a light spray with furniture wax or Pam may also hedge your bet applied in addition to the paste wax . Use play do to fill all crevices you don't want jb weld to seep! The mag well of the reciever , the mag cut out of the stock ! Remove the trigger group fill the area with playdo! Spray and wax the reciever but not the recoil lug. You want it to stay in the stock. But two long bolts that match your reciever bolts and cut off the heads 6" long wax them good put heat shrink on them other than the depth they screw on.

De grease the inside of the stock Ruffin were you will glass I suggest fully glass the reciever the recoil lug and the chamber area of the barrel. You should have a 1/2 moa rifle or better when done

 

[ejg]

The recoil lug on a T3 only sits about 2.5mm deep in the action. Not much room for error. There is no reason to not bed at least the front action screw surface while gluing the recoil lug in position. The way we do it is open the recoil lug hole so that the recoil lug would not touch any surface when being bedded/glued in position. Apply release agent to your action (we use proper release agent for epoxies). We then remove a small bit of release agent inside the mid area of the recoil lug slot using a rubber abrasive. Then position the degreased recoil lug in the centre of the upside down action, measure with a Vernier that it is centre and push the lug to the front surface. (we get our own lugs made with just about zero slop). Take a drop of thin super glue on a needle tip and let it run into the action/lug. It should shoot in. Let it cure or add accelerator. This we would then bed in the stock in one go. After curing the super glue connection just cracks when one removes the action from the stock. Normally every other T3 just fits into this position, no need to re-bed for another T3.
We also use 7.9mm pins with m6 thread at one end and have the action screw holes at 8mm so that no part of the action screw touches the stock after bedding. No part of the barrel should touch the stock... therefore other actions can fit into that bedding. Even for my own rifles I always use our slave actions for bedding, not the action that is used in the stock. Reason is I swop rifles around in stocks depending on season or hunt.

edi

 

[justinp61]

I'm not a fan of gorilla glue on anything. I used J B Weld Marineweld (in the individual tubes) epoxy on the last couple of rifles I've done, and all have come out nice. It's not supposed to shrink and is chemical resistant.

I have also used Devcon 10110 and it works well. My problem is the remainder in the containers goes bad before I can use the rest of it.

 

[Danehunter]

USE RELEASE SPRAY ON YER ACTION!
Then bed it with Marine-Tex, Bisonite, etc. and be done with it. You will always be able to remove the action.

There is no such thing as "temporary bedding", at least that actually woks.

 

[ejg]

I'm not a fan of gorilla glue on anything. I used J B Weld Marineweld (in the individual tubes) epoxy on the last couple of rifles I've done, and all have come out nice. It's not supposed to shrink and is chemical resistant.

I have also used Devcon 10110 and it works well. My problem is the remainder in the containers goes bad before I can use the rest of it.

Epoxy can be revived by heating up the crystalized resin in say a tub of very hot water. Bit like gone hard honey.
edi

 

[spladi]

I need to epoxy in the recoil lug on my tikka. I don't want to bed it. Is there a specific epoxy that would work better? Superglue? 2 part epoxy like jb weld? Is there something that's permanent but removable if needed? There is very little wiggle room, maybe 1/16" in the hole the recoil lug drops into.

Some compounds work in plastic and some not so good in plastic / synthetic material. Have used "DEVCON" to set in pillars in my Tikka synthetic stock which is still holding up well.

 

[Clem Bronkoski]

I'm not a fan of gorilla glue on anything. I used J B Weld Marineweld (in the individual tubes) epoxy on the last couple of rifles I've done, and all have come out nice. It's not supposed to shrink and is chemical resistant.

I have also used Devcon 10110 and it works well. My problem is the remainder in the containers goes bad before I can use the rest of it.

Justin you know you can buy it in small 1 lb cans so you're not wasting too much?

 

[Bruce Treloar]

I need to epoxy in the recoil lug on my tikka. I don't want to bed it. Is there a specific epoxy that would work better? Superglue? 2 part epoxy like jb weld? Is there something that's permanent but removable if needed? There is very little wiggle room, maybe 1/16" in the hole the recoil lug drops into.

Do bed the recoil lug for better accuracy. The action will move back and forth during firing, clearance is necessary in the front , bottom and sides but not at the rear. Apply a single layer of tape on the surfaces that need clearance ie the front, sides and bottom but not the rear.
Any epoxy resin with a run free viscoty like 1/2" thick, not drooping, when on a vertical surface.
Don't forget to use a wax release agent on all surfaces including the tape and front action screw thread etc. Assemble the rifle allowing the epoxy to cure. A complete bedding job including the recoil lug, all done at the same time will give better results. Good luck

 

[sp6x6]

As others have said.Im a almost 40 yrs at building custom homes,gorilla glue is just that poyethlen glue,nothing like epoxy or a rifle bedding compound.Not that tough,good for light duty.

 

[WildRose]

Some compounds work in plastic and some not so good in plastic / synthetic material. Have used "DEVCON" to set in pillars in my Tikka synthetic stock which is still holding up well.

The big problem with plastics is that they are smooth and "oilly". Rough up the area and clean it with a degreaser and most epoxies will bond to it.

 

[Chrsm]

Slow set jb. Done!