Aoudad 101
Well-Known Member
Marinetex , or devcon is what I use.
Epoxy in recoil lug
- Thread starter Ucsdryder
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
I think you are misinterpreting words.
Bedding and glueing in the recoil lug is the same thing.
I bedded my recoil lug in my original T3. I was able to remove it without damaging the stock when I switched stocks.
Even if you couldn't remove it, there are aftermarket lugs for the Tikka cheap.
personally, I would Bed the lug with a good amount of Devcon 101110 or other epoxy that you prefer over just using a little glue.
There's only one right way. First, do NOT use Gorilla glue. Over time it breaks down into a brittle honeycomb. It's worthless for anything permanent much less an action job.
You have to do it with lug attached to the barreled action. It's actually simple and removable done with the right materials. Go to Brownell's and get proper bedding compound….it's an epoxy similar to JB Weld. And get Bedding Release agent.
You open up the lug area with a dremel or other tool. About a 3/32" clearance minimum on all four sides or compound isn't strong enough. 1/16" is not enough. Need to open up. I even open up the back side of the lug area 3/16" and then vertically along each side, cut a 90deg channel, like an overall "L" or U shape to give further purchase and bond/effectiveness of the recoil lug to stock performance. Then apply release agent along bottom of action, lug and front 2" of barrel. Let it dry completely. Then apply the bedding compound only in the lug area if that's what you want. But a FAR more accurate rifle will be had if you bed entire action and front 2" of barrel. Either way, Then run action screws into the stock and gently snug down the entire action so that it sits properly in your stock as designed; but do not cinch it up. That'll come later after it's all hardened. Let it sit overnight or 24hrs. Remove action screws a 1/4" and take a rubber mallet and begin tapping on screws. The action, lug and barrel will pop free. Clean up and you've got a properly bedded action that's permanent and removable and super enhancing for accuracy. Use modeling clay when you put the epoxy in the lug and action area to build a dam to stop the flow of epoxy in areas you don't want. The clay will simply compress and fill in voids when you mount the action. Don't use excessive epoxy or clay. Some epoxy may come up the sides and out the rifle stock/barrel gap. Do not wipe. Let it harden. You've put release agent everywhere and it's easy to trim with a knife or dremel. This is what you want to do. You CANNOT get a precisely positioned recoil lug bedded, permanently or otherwise without it being attached to the barreled action. You'll be very disappointed and have to destroy the stock to try again. It'll never work that way.
To be safe on your first bedding attempt, I'd use 2coats of release agent. But keep it thin. Thick won't release any better, but it will create an inprecise gun to stock fit. Tolerances for a proper fit are that tight. Zero/zero. Feel free to DM with questions. I only took this amount of time to write because you're headed for disaster with alot of really bad advice.
Last edited:
If you epoxy only the recoil lug good luck getting it apart later. Don't understand why you wouldn't just bed it properly it's not that hard to do it yourself?
esshup
Well-Known Member
We'll see how it works! Of course I didn't read the instructions first and it says to dampen the object. We're going to try no dampen!
Let us know how it works. Without doing more research in to the Tikka actions, my initial thought would be that I'd want to bed the action too, at the same time I'm gluing in the recoil lug. I was going to suggest the Brownell's Acraglas but since you already used the Gorilla Glue, I'd be interested to see how it worked after you've shot the rifle. Not only how well the lug was held in place, but also if you saw any difference in accuracy.
Ucsdryder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Messages
- 1,571
will do. Lots of good advice came on here after the deed was done. The other stock that was epoxied in shoots .25 moa when I'm doing my part so I'm hoping this one does the same. The manufacturer said most people just epoxy it in and the tolerances are tight enough that bedding isn't necessary. I guess I'll find out soon enough!!!
If it doesn't work I'll heat it, remove the epoxy and open up the channel. I was a little scared to dremel away at a 750 dollar stock.
+1, it'll work and heat applied will allow it to break free.
shooterntn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2017
- Messages
- 87
Gunweks has great video on this bedding lug.
You've clearly never disassembled a Tikka.
I know exactly what you mean, my T3x Superlite has the same kind of lug. What I did and I believe you should do is get some quality epoxy, apply release to the area around the recoil lug, then fill the hole with just enough epoxy for your purpose, reassemble the gun and properly torque the action screws. I am no expert at bedding by any means, but this worked perfectly for me. My lug had the same kind of play you speak of.
Make sure as your bedding it you square action and stock. Stress free bed the action and lug using a dial indicator does help in this process. Wax and buff as stated before, set barrel clearance, cooler curing epoxy as it expands, shrinks and less or glue. Not sure of the glue's sensitivity to temperature and possibly cracking.
Marine tex. Period. Put tape at bottom sides and front of lug. Only the rear bearing surface should touch.
Marine tex. Period. Rock hard. Doesn't shrink. Only contact rear bearing face of lug. Put 2 layers of tape at front, sides and underside. Dont forget release agent on anything you dont want to stick to.
Google search marine tex for action bedding. Accurateshooter.com. etc.
Google search marine tex for action bedding. Accurateshooter.com. etc.
