Epoxy for aluminum pillars?
- Thread starter SavageHunter11
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SavageHunter11
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the link. That's certainly going to be printed out at work tomorrow.
muleystalker
Well-Known Member
I use Accuglass Gel for pillars and such. I also use it with powdered SS or Aluminum to bed the recoil lug/action. Also use Devcon 100110 to bed action. These to work a lot better for me than the others listed that I have tried. The Accuglass Gell you can also dye to match the color of the stock and its thicker and doesn't drip and run all over everything making it easier to work with. Its also good for reaping stocks and building up the tang area say for a thick tang target action or making a palm swell or other modifications to the stock.
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I can't find the shrinkage comparison... maybe George Constanza can shed some light on this.
Call Robert at Manners , tell him 30 Hammer sent you. They will let you ship your barreled action to them and do the bedding / final inlet at Manners . They do incredible work.
SavageHunter11
Well-Known Member
what do they charge for that service?
SMK1000plus
Well-Known Member
JB Weld "STEEL" slow set. Works great for pillars and for stress free mounting of Picatinny and other bases.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Exactly.
On the recommendation of a High Power Comp/BR 'smith 30-odd years ago I use the same basic product, but aluminum filled.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065TMWQ/?tag=lrhmag19-20
Then for you weight-weenies who are concerned about every ounce (including how heavy your wallet is) I'll suggest the solution for all of your woes, including the heavy wallet:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065TM08/?tag=lrhmag19-20
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When I was 12 I installed aluminum pillars on my Fajen Sported Enfield .30-06 I purchase aluminum rod form the hardware store, drilled them, contoured them, I used Devconn 2ton epoxy to glue them in, and Brownell's ACRAGLAS to bed the action. I hand sanded the for-end until I could slide a dollar bill up to the action. I did this by myself, my old man ordered the Acraglas from my local smith. My father did not believe in doing anything to anything unless it was broken.. He was not happy I wanted to go above and beyond the basic wood inletting. I did this by myself at 12 years old. I had been building furniture for a few years at that point for our shop: so I had experience. Most kids these days would be hard pressed to do it alone let alone properly. It came out perfect, I mixed the Acraglas a little soft but I figured it would never crack that way. It was a great shooter.
Shot my first Buck with it, 185g SP at 200 yards standing shot, blew the middle of his heart out but he still had the mustard to get up and make a run for it as I stood over him: I tried to chamber a second cartridge but the **** thing jammed hard, I had to finish him with my hunting knife, he kicked me a few times but I was wearing thick wool trousers and long johns, and his hooves didn't penetrate thankfully. He weighed 139lbs dressed out. (he wasn't breathing when I approached him, but now I do the eye check and always have a second round ready to go).
I think it was $200.00. I liked it because if anything went wrong they fixed it before it shipped. Since it was their service and their stock I figured it the best way to go.
SavageHunter11
Well-Known Member
My local smith charges $325 to bed so that's a deal in my book
WindSurgeon
Member
Marine-Tex is the best out there. Used by the best gunsmith's in America. Shrinks less than any other epoxy. Available on Amazon for less than $20. I use the gray color.
http://marinetex.com/products/marine-tex-products/marine-tex-epoxy-putty/
My second choice would be Devcon 10110
http://marinetex.com/products/marine-tex-products/marine-tex-epoxy-putty/
My second choice would be Devcon 10110
ofbandg
Well-Known Member
I use JB Weld for synthetic stocks. For wood I use an almost clear industrial epoxy I buy at a wood working shop. This allows me to mix in powdered dyes I pick up at fabric stores and try and match up the colour of the stock. Slow cure epoxy is stronger in the long run. The traditional masking tape is a must for protecting any surface you don't want overflow on. The epoxy doesn't stick to it. I also use surgical tubing to hold the action and stock together while it is drying and I put a business card or two at the fore end of the stock to keep the barrel centred in the channel, which works for me because I float all my stocks. Years ago a well-respected gunsmith and shooter taught me that the barrelled action should be just sitting in the epoxy until it drys, with no real stress being exerted on any one part of it.
