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Effectiveness of Glass Bedding

I totally agree and know hanloading is the key.

Mark Chanlynn built a Remington 700 30-338 for me with heavy slightly tapered 26" barrel 1 1/8 inch at muzzle. He installed a Jewell trigger to top it off.

At a 500 Yard prone match it shot 10 rounds into a .342 hole. Used a Burris Blackdiamond scope. Watched every round go into thar paper target on a perfect day. Yes a moving backstop in the pits for these matches run by Jim Cloward at Machias HighPower Club.

I actually lost to a guy with a 6.5X284. That was a real disappointment.

They were handloads of course.

THAT is incredible shooting!!!
 
THAT is incredible shooting!!!
Thanks but the rifle is more than capable. It is the conditions that make it possible. 500 yards is really a range where these rifles shine. When you get out to a thosand plus things are way less forgiving for the shooter even with good conditions. Every little thing is more critical by a large margin.
All that really means is practicing what you can control phsically. Doping wind is an art and I am still not as good as I think I ought to be after 50 plus years behind the trigger. It ain't just the winds speed or it would be alot easier.
 
This.

Forget the glass, buy Devcon and be sure you use enough release agent.

Putting a couple of good coats of car wax on everything that you "don't" want the epoxy to stick to is "always" a good idea, and then put a good coat of masking tape all over everything that you don't want the epoxy to stick to on the outside and inside of the stock also is a good idea. I've found that "if" epoxy can stick to something that you don't want it to stick to, it will manage to find that exact spot and make life miserable!
 
I always recommend good Pillar and Glass bedding no matter the rifle unless it is completely factory. With a factory 10 twist barrel, factory spec'd stock, and a factory chamber, there are too many variables that "could" be affecting accuracy to expect one solution to change accuracy from 1.5 MOA to sub-moa.

Theoretically you could glass bed, change action screw in pounds, and ensure all parts are fitted correctly and still have issues due to your load. I recommend before you go through all that work, be sure your rifle is optimized for the best load.
Find the load that you get the absolute best groupings. Then once you have the absolute best group possible with the ammo's tested, go into all the other "issues" that my increase accuracy until there are non left. Go one by one and tighten your groups. Your rifle will then be as accurate as it can be without changing the barrel.

Changing the barrel will get you a significantly better barrel and a better chamber which could be an expense that will not be optimized unless you plan to hand-load. If you do change the barrel after all the work above, you will need to start over in finding what load the rifle likes which is the funnest part!

Wanna do it one time and one time only? Change the barrel, accurize the action, custom fit the stock with quality pillars and bedding, hand-load and turn the rifle into a tack driving badass.
 
I would recommend Bartlein, Benchmark or HawkHill, but of course those are just the ones Ive used and have had excellent results with, I'm sure there's many more great barrel makers.
Great choices...for the 300 WM specifically you may want to also consider Krieger, Proof, or Lilja as viable selections
 
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