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Dumb reloading question

There's always a chance a little case lube could get on a primer to make it misfire.
The Hornady One-shot case sizing wax will not degrade primers because it's not an oil-based lubricant. The wax comes in a tin, about the size of a tin of smokeless terbacky. Takes just a tiny bit to lube-up several cases; I've had my tin for several years and it's still over half full. It's cheap at $10 a tin and you'll never tip it over and have it run all over your reloadin' bench.

 
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Just in case anyone was wondering if they'd still work, I've carefully de-primed plenty of live primers because I goofed and primed them upside down, messed up the casing they were primed in, and every mistake in the book. As long as they didn't touch oil or humidity, I re-prime them into fresh casings all the time and they work just fine.

Of course whether you choose to reuse them is your prerogative but I'm just here to let you know that unless you're doing something different than me, they work just fine.
 
I had the same issue happen, I have some new nickel plated brass and I prepped some for load development and I started priming and loading, then realizes Ibwas using the unprepped batch that I had not put through the full size die yet, luckily I only fully loaded 5 of them so I need to pull the bullets but never in my life though about pulling the decaping pin, it'll save some primers and time.

Thank for the tip @Frog4aday
 
Yes; the seater must be so set that it will seat longer bullets, like a 55-grain FMJ into a .223 case. It's set too far down to seat a shorter bullet on the bearing surface. Raise the seater spindle and try again.

You'll see that same thing when you try to seat very long bullets (like 75-grain A-max bullets) into .223 cases. The ogive is very long and will fall inside the case mouth if the seater isn't raised upward enough to get the bearing surface gripped by the resized neck.
I did full l sizing it got it so the case will hold bullet. But not by much. If I force it the bullet will go in too far. I also lowered the sized as low as it would go. I guess ill try backing it out.
 
I did full l sizing it got it so the case will hold bullet. But not by much. If I force it the bullet will go in too far. I also lowered the sized as low as it would go. I guess ill try backing it out.
Maybe a bushing die so you can get more neck tension if they make one
 
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I did full l sizing it got it so the case will hold bullet. But not by much. If I force it the bullet will go in too far. I also lowered the sized as low as it would go. I guess ill try backing it out.
My good friend JR shoots the Ruger 204. He's 83, so anyone can do it. I'd try running the seater all the way up, place a bullet in the case mouth, slowly raise the ram, then screw the spindle down until you feel some resistance. Once you feel resistance, walk the spindle down in quarter-turns until you get a solid grip and the bullet seated to where you want it to be.
 
Ok Ill try it
You may have to run the locknut up in order to get the die body in such a position that you have some latitude to adjust the seater spindle to an appropriate position. I don't shoot tiny bullets; they're too hard for my huge fingers to handle. To those of you who do, I admire & praise your tenacity...
 
You may have to run the locknut up in order to get the die body in such a position that you have some latitude to adjust the seater spindle to an appropriate position. I don't shoot tiny bullets; they're too hard for my huge fingers to handle. To those of you who do, I admire & praise your tenacity...
It's not that bad maybe try latex gloves
 
FYI, for those who are very OCD about precise charge weights. I have pulled bullets, emptied powder and deprimed live primers to find a kernel of powder crushed into the primer. Even after forcefully tapping the case neck on the wood bench to get all the powder out I still find a kernel in nearly half the deprimed cases. When I'm nearing the end of my load development and need to use one of those cases i always deprime and use a fresh primer to make sure there are no kernels stuck to the primer. Why use an FX scale and weigh to the kernel if one may already be in the case?
he can dump them one at a time into a (reloading scale's) pan then re-size and refill to mitigate that issue. I don't worry about a single kernel of powder on most of what I shoot, but the smaller cartridges can be more unforgiving...
 
I don't worry about a single kernel of powder on most of what I shoot, but the smaller cartridges can be more unforgiving...
That is very true. I read an article several years ago about two men who designed a very small-capacity wildcat. It shot good groups for a while, then all went to helsinki. They couldn't figger-out why it started-out good, then went down the toilet after so many rounds. Turns out the powder residue lessened the case volume, which buggered-up the careful balance of case volume versus powder charge-- which blew-up the group sizes. Who would have ever thought such a thing?
 
Start by looking over your cases as you put them in a case tray. If you don't have the room to have two trays. 1 un-sized and and 1 sized cases trays. You can set up and hold one roll back then after sizing your case place it in the front roll. That way you will see where you left off to start again and moved back to the next roll. I always after resizing all the brass I check my overall case length as the next complete step. Long cases cause problems. My bench is set up to move from one step to the next. The only time I go back to the start place is to placement of the bullets in the case and complete the process. In loading powder never start off with the hottest load in the reloading manual.

SSS

Mike
 
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