Drilling hole in Redding sizing die

[Rardoin]

Thanks @L.Sherm. If the vent works then I'll be fine with the current die. If it doesn't I can part off the 1/2 of the die and have my ring die and ream out another FL to use after the ring die. I have a high degree of certainty that the venting will solve the problem. I'll have to get the vent drilled at the proper angle to hit mid shoulder but I will work with my gunsmith and use his mill to spot face the 40deg angle on the die and peck drill with a very small bit to get it done. A Cratex point on the interior to debur should finish it. I'll follow up with before and after pics of the brass.

 

[L.Sherm]

I forgot you have a die reamer.

 

[Dean2]

I really do not understand how air can be getting trapped between the shoulder of the case and the shoulder on the die. If it did, Redding would have a vent hole on all their dies already as I can see no reason it would happen on some and not others. I will be very interested to see if this vent hole actually solves the problem you are having.

 

[L.Sherm]

I can see it happening if the brass is fully formed and he's taken most of the taper out of the case.

 

[Rardoin]

@Dean2 Like Sherm stated, on a fully formed AI type case, minimal body taper and long neck, the neck and the lower portion of the body can simultaneously 'seal' in the sizing die trapping enough volume of air to produce a significant force when that volume is compressed when the case is run in the die fully. This would not happen on a case with more body taper and a shorter neck. This is a unique situation. Look up Lee's explanation for their rationale for a vented die.

 

[MNbogboy]

Most dies are case or quench hardebnedand extremely hard on the outside surface. I have shortened dies for wildcats using abrasive cutting wheels.
If you anneal them first they will soften a little. Drilling a hole would be extremely difficult without special tooling. Contact the die mfg for their take on this explaining the problem may just get them to remedy your problem
Good luck

 

[L.Sherm]

. Contact the die mcg for their take on this explaining the problem may just get them to remedy your problem
Good luck

He already did thats what they told him to do

 

[Rardoin]

It is melonited which is a form of case hardening. I will spotface it with a carbide endmill to get below the hard surface then spot drill it before peck drilling it to the cavity. I have a 3/32" AlTi coated drill to make the vent. My only concern is penetrating the inner hardened surface but I think I'll be fine. I'll debur the inside hole with a Cratex point. If that craps out then it will become my base sizing die.

 

[Blackhawk]

I'm wouldn't drill hole I have 8 sets of Redding dies no problems

I would not alter the die in any way, shape ,or manner.
It has been stated that you will void your warranty ,which of course you will. I personally would send it back to Redding and let them check out the die itself, after all you paid good money to have a custom die made and if any modifications need to be made let the manufacturer decide.
In the aforementioned light. I would send three case samples to Redding for analysis. However the first thing that I would do is to call and ask to speak with any one of the technicians at Redding describing your problem., as they are all wonderful problem solvers ( at least anytime in the past I've had any questions or issiues they have always talked me through it ) I am also assuming that you have correctly annealed your brass shell cases beforehand.
Additionally before you return your die set to Redding I would remove the insides from your FL resizing die (You did not state whether or not you are using an expander ,or bushing style of die) and thoroughly clean and degrease this Fl die body as well as its components.
Please note if you find any brass or steel shavings and remove them note the location and see if they line up with your dimpled brass case shoulders.
(Judging from the image that you submitted they appear to be in approximately the same location)
If possible you may want to use an ultrasonic cleaning machine to remove any residual shavings /chips left from the factory. It doesn't take much to to create a dimple in soft brass ,however the real danger would be to Gaul the sizing die body at the shoulder and neck juncture creating a deep grove or scratch in the die itself which if left unchecked will result in a useless die unless you can polish it out under power.
OBTW If you go the Ultrasonic route please make certain to thoroughly dry your die and then spray it down with something like Hornady's One Shot Cleaner and Lube in order to prevent any issiues with rust.
So please examine your die closely for any foreign material and as I have already stated you must anneal your brass as work hardened brass can also yield similar results simply by dimpling at the juncture between the case neck and shoulder during the FL sizing of your brass.
You must rule out everything and anything one step at a time including the type as well as the amount of case lubricant that you are using.
Hope this helps ya out or at that the very least will give you something to think about !

 

[L.Sherm]

I would not alter the die in any way, shape ,or manner.
It has been stated that you will void your warranty ,which of course you will.
In the aforementioned light. I would send three case samples to Redding for analysis. However the first thig that I would do is to call and ask to speak with any one of there technicians describing your problem., as they are all wonderful problem solvers ( at least anytime in the past I've had any questions or issiues they have always talked me through it ) I am also assuming that you have correctly annealed your brass shell cases beforehand.
Additionally before you return you die set to Redding I would remove the insides from your FL resizing die (You did not state whether or not you are using an expander ,or bushing style of die) and thoroughly clean and degrease this Fl die body as well as its components.
Please note if you find any brass or steel shavings and remove them noting the location and see if they line up with your dimpled brass case shoulders.
(Judging from the image that you submitted they appear to be in approximately the same location) If possible you may want to use an ultrasonic cleaning machine to remove any residual shavings /chips left from the factory. It doesn't take much to to create a dimple in soft brass ,however the real danger would be to Gaul the sizing die body at the shoulder and neck juncture creating a deep grove or scratch in the die itself which if left unchecked will result in a useless die unless you can polish it out under power.
So please examine your die closely for any foreign material and as I have already stated you must anneal your brass as work hardened brass can also yield similar results.
You must rule out everything and anything one step at a time.
Hope this helps ya out or at that the very least will give you something to think about !

He has already talked with Newton and THATS what they recommended, any his die is on a blank for a reamer he speced so no warranty

 

[Blackhawk]

He has already talked with Newton and THATS what they recommended, any his die is on a blank for a reamer he speced so no warranty

Thank You I guess that I didn't read all the posts.

Again apology's extended !

 

[quigley257]

I just found this thread. I have a set of Redding 6.5/300 SAUM dies that will dent the shoulder without fail on almost every case. I called Redding asking about a vent hole and/or a possible solution. My die causes the dents to form between the shouldwer and neck area versus on the body like the OP showed. They replied that no vent hole should be needed. They automatically assumed I was using too much lube (a fair assessment for shoulder dents), which I am not. I have tried cleaning the die multiple times and using just the bare minimum amount of lube. I have tried One Shot as well as Imperial paste. Immediately after cleaning the die, I can get a couple cases to come out with no dent, but inevitably the dents reappear after a few cases have been run. I have put so little lube on the case that I can tell they are very near getting stuck. Of the dozens of Redding dies I use and love, this particular 6.5 SAUM is the only one to do this, or give any problems at all for that matter. I may try popping it in the lathe and lightly polishing the shoulder/neck area to see if that helps at all. Reddings final advice to me was to use less lube. We shall see...

 

[Dean2]

I just found this thread. I have a set of Redding 6.5/300 SAUM dies that will dent the shoulder without fail on almost every case. I called Redding asking about a vent hole and/or a possible solution. My die causes the dents to form between the shouldwer and neck area versus on the body like the OP showed. They replied that no vent hole should be needed. They automatically assumed I was using too much lube (a fair assessment for shoulder dents), which I am not. I have tried cleaning the die multiple times and using just the bare minimum amount of lube. I have tried One Shot as well as Imperial paste. Immediately after cleaning the die, I can get a couple cases to come out with no dent, but inevitably the dents reappear after a few cases have been run. I have put so little lube on the case that I can tell they are very near getting stuck. Of the dozens of Redding dies I use and love, this particular 6.5 SAUM is the only one to do this, or give any problems at all for that matter. I may try popping it in the lathe and lightly polishing the shoulder/neck area to see if that helps at all. Reddings final advice to me was to use less lube. We shall see...

I would send it back to Redding with a couple of dented cases and let them fix or replace it.

 

[Ckleeves]

I just found this thread. I have a set of Redding 6.5/300 SAUM dies that will dent the shoulder without fail on almost every case. I called Redding asking about a vent hole and/or a possible solution. My die causes the dents to form between the shouldwer and neck area versus on the body like the OP showed. They replied that no vent hole should be needed. They automatically assumed I was using too much lube (a fair assessment for shoulder dents), which I am not. I have tried cleaning the die multiple times and using just the bare minimum amount of lube. I have tried One Shot as well as Imperial paste. Immediately after cleaning the die, I can get a couple cases to come out with no dent, but inevitably the dents reappear after a few cases have been run. I have put so little lube on the case that I can tell they are very near getting stuck. Of the dozens of Redding dies I use and love, this particular 6.5 SAUM is the only one to do this, or give any problems at all for that matter. I may try popping it in the lathe and lightly polishing the shoulder/neck area to see if that helps at all. Reddings final advice to me was to use less lube. We shall see...

I have a set of Whidden 6.5 saum dies that do the same thing. Can't even get 1/2 thou of shoulder bump without getting a dent. It's 100% not a lube or dirty die issue. When I first saw it I thought no big deal, dirty die. Cleaned it really well, tried every type of case lube I had on the bench etc. Same results every time. I have measured resized cases against the reamer and fired unsized cases to see if there is a conflict in size somewhere. Nothing make sense except an airlock of sorts.

Here is the interesting part, a 7saum bushing die with a 6.5 bushing in it works perfect and the dimensions between the two dies are the exact same. My theory is the the clearance between the shoulder and the bushing is enough to let it "breath".