Does anyone make premium brass for the 264 WM?

[Equalizer]

No dog in the fight but You probably set your dies per manufacturer instructions instead of to your chamber. That will cause case head separation....

 

[codyadams]

No dog in the fight but You probably set your dies per manufacturer instructions instead of to your chamber. That will cause case head separation....

"Screw sizer die down against ram and send it!!" LOL ALMOST verbatim from Lee dies ha ha

 

[Majopikeras]

No dog in the fight but You probably set your dies per manufacturer instructions instead of to your chamber. That will cause case head separation....

No more fight from my side!!

Sure I did that... 264 WM was the first cartridge I reload for, and the first time I posted here was seeking advice for this round!

In any case, as per MY experience, the first shot with a belted case can cause a great affect in the case web. If your chamber is "tight" maybe it´s not an issue. But my factory W70 will show signs of case head stretch when firing virgin, unsized brass. Run that same brass trhough a 7mm expander, resize to 6,5 creating a false shoulder and cases will form perfect.

I was trying to help the OP. I don´t know if he knows how to properly size cases or adjust dies. Following my advice he may get good results when fireforming.

That´s, at least, my thoughts...

I don´t post a lot and allways tryed to help and never intend to be in the middle of a discussion in this way...

Cheers to all!

 

[Majopikeras]

"Screw sizer die down against ram and send it!!" LOL ALMOST verbatim from Lee dies ha ha

Fully agree... but it SHOULD WORK OK... if you want to go with SAAMI specs...

I was using old hornady dies BTW

 

[codyadams]

Fully agree... but it SHOULD WORK OK... if you want to go with SAAMI specs...

I was using old hornady dies BTW

Ya, the only issue is it will work ok....for maybe 2 or 3 firings. Then you will have case head separation, especially of the chamber is reamed on the longer side of SAAMI spec, and the factory brass was on the shorter side. Assuming a chamber is within spec, making a false shoulder for the first firing isn't necessary, however it also doesn't hurt, it is just an extra step. In conjunction with that, every following needs to be set proper to the chamber so that your not oversizing your brass, or you will almost certainly encounter case head separation, or cracks, at some point. A die in a belted magnum does need to be set proper for brass longevity, and there are methods that do not require any special tools.

Now, my uncle had a 300 win mag that would get case head separations occasionally on the first shot with factory ammo, the chamber was way long. It was right before hunting season and he didn't want to send it back to Winchester to get it fixed until after, so a temporary fix was to create a false shoulder, shortening the already short 300 wm neck slightly, and make sure it had a crush fit. It fixed it, no more separations, and we were able to put together a load that functioned properly for him for that season. I don't remember how much longer the chamber was reamed, but it was significant, and this was not a good permanent fix, it needed a proper chamber. The rifle was sent back to Winchester after season, and after confirming what we told them, they replaced the barrel free of charge. The next one had no such issues, fire your rounds, set the die proper for the chamber so your not oversizing your brass, and they lasted until the primer pockets no longer held primers.

 

[scope-eye]

I have a 6mm Mach IV which is a 264 WM or 257 WBY necked down to 6mm, anyways the smith who chambered it said humor me and set the headspace on this one by the shoulder instead of the belt. I did and they end result was that it shot great then after finding out you could do this and never leaving well enough alone, I started screwing around with with my other belted mags and head spacing them off the belt. Going from a really tight headspace to really loose and I was surprised how it changed the dynamics of the rifle, it actually tightened up the grouping on most of them and was also able to load hotter before seeing any of the tell tail signs.

Dean

 

[roninflag]

norma and nosler

 

[Majopikeras]

Ya, the only issue is it will work ok....for maybe 2 or 3 firings. Then you will have case head separation, especially of the chamber is reamed on the longer side of SAAMI spec, and the factory brass was on the shorter side. Assuming a chamber is within spec, making a false shoulder for the first firing isn't necessary, however it also doesn't hurt, it is just an extra step. In conjunction with that, every following needs to be set proper to the chamber so that your not oversizing your brass, or you will almost certainly encounter case head separation, or cracks, at some point. A die in a belted magnum does need to be set proper for brass longevity, and there are methods that do not require any special tools.

Now, my uncle had a 300 win mag that would get case head separations occasionally on the first shot with factory ammo, the chamber was way long. It was right before hunting season and he didn't want to send it back to Winchester to get it fixed until after, so a temporary fix was to create a false shoulder, shortening the already short 300 wm neck slightly, and make sure it had a crush fit. It fixed it, no more separations, and we were able to put together a load that functioned properly for him for that season. I don't remember how much longer the chamber was reamed, but it was significant, and this was not a good permanent fix, it needed a proper chamber. The rifle was sent back to Winchester after season, and after confirming what we told them, they replaced the barrel free of charge. The next one had no such issues, fire your rounds, set the die proper for the chamber so your not oversizing your brass, and they lasted until the primer pockets no longer held primers.

Hi Cody

This post, I think, confirmed my comments.

If the OP will use 7 RM (as many suggested), the false shoulder will be the same steps (one) as fully resizing. It´s easier as he doesn´t need to check for chamber or brass dimensions... just adjust die by trial until bolt closes with some resistance and enjoy shooting! You can get accurate fireforming loads without much trouble.

Regarding your brass lasting until they no longer hold the primers, you can still use loctite to hold them in place until you can fit 50 BMG primers.

 

[codyadams]

Hi Cody

This post, I think, confirmed my comments.

If the OP will use 7 RM (as many suggested), the false shoulder will be the same steps (one) as fully resizing. It´s easier as he doesn´t need to check for chamber or brass dimensions... just adjust die by trial until bolt closes with some resistance and enjoy shooting! You can get accurate fireforming loads without much trouble.

Regarding your brass lasting until they no longer hold the primers, you can still use loctite to hold them in place until you can fit 50 BMG primers.

Ha ha, ya, if you search there is actually a good write up where a guy uses a ball bearing on a vice, and a punch, sets the primer pocket on the ball and punch inside the case and peens it until it crimps slightly, you can get a couple more fireings if your in a pinch. May be useful information actually considering the current state of things.

 

[Majopikeras]

Ha ha, ya, if you search there is actually a good write up where a guy uses a ball bearing on a vice, and a punch, sets the primer pocket on the ball and punch inside the case and peens it until it crimps slightly, you can get a couple more fireings if your in a pinch. May be useful information actually considering the current state of things.

Noooooo way!! Far more easy to open them up and use 50bmg primers. You also save 2 gr of powder due to primers being hotter LOL

We should take a look in order to learn how to refill primera too... i think you could get C4 to refill (one pound last a couple thousands primers)

 

[FEENIX]

A simple query by the OP now officially hijacked.

 

[Mike Matteson]

YOU ARE ALL WRONG. ha ha. I have been reloading belted mag for 58+ years. Probable not many have that length of time, and grade with belted mag. I load for several of them. (264, 7mm, 308 NM, 300 WM, 338 WM). Cases do separate at the belt. I seen it starting in 3 firing or my primer pocket open up in 8 to 12 firing, I detect case separation. The case goes into the recycling bend. Back to best or quality brass. Look at Peterson 300 Win Mag brass. Resize it to 264 Win Mag, fire form it, and go on. Check for volume. If I remember correctly they are within 1 grain of volume. Now there brass may not hold up as good as Lapua brass. I don't know for fact how volume stack up in Lapua. I have on my desk Lapua 30-06, and Peterson 270 brass. Which I will converting them to 6mm-280AI brass. If I could have gotten Peterson brass in 280IA brass to start with I would have. Presently not available, but I have them on order. I check all my case for case separation withing 3 firing, and check there after. Part of the job of reloading. It's not the time,it's the accuracies that everybody is working towards. This the place to put it out there for people to go over, and think about. Weather you use the info is a different thing.

 

[codyadams]

YOU ARE ALL WRONG. ha ha. I have been reloading belted mag for 58+ years. Probable not many have that length of time, and grade with belted mag. I load for several of them. (264, 7mm, 308 NM, 300 WM, 338 WM). Cases do separate at the belt. I seen it starting in 3 firing or my primer pocket open up in 8 to 12 firing, I detect case separation. The case goes into the recycling bend. Back to best or quality brass. Look at Peterson 300 Win Mag brass. Resize it to 264 Win Mag, fire form it, and go on. Check for volume. If I remember correctly they are within 1 grain of volume. Now there brass may not hold up as good as Lapua brass. I don't know for fact how volume stack up in Lapua. I have on my desk Lapua 30-06, and Peterson 270 brass. Which I will converting them to 6mm-280AI brass. If I could have gotten Peterson brass in 280IA brass to start with I would have. Presently not available, but I have them on order. I check all my case for case separation withing 3 firing, and check there after. Part of the job of reloading. It's not the time,it's the accuracies that everybody is working towards. This the place to put it out there for people to go over, and think about. Weather you use the info is a different thing.

.264 win mag has 81.7 grains capacity and the 300 win mag has 93.8 grains capacity, as well as being .120" longer. I'm assuming you meant 7mm rem mag (introduced commercialy in 1962), as it is based on the .264 wm (introduced commercialy in 1959) necked up.

 

[Mike Matteson]

.264 win mag has 81.7 grains capacity and the 300 win mag has 93.8 grains capacity, as well as being .120" longer. I'm assuming you meant 7mm rem mag (introduced commercialy in 1962), as it is based on the .264 wm (introduced commercialy in 1959) necked up.

Yes 7mm Rem Mag.