did I anneal too long or what else is going on?

I agree with all of that but You didn't answer my question, but now I have a question for you, how do you know what your doing is correct, did you read it somewhere, is it in the bench source instructions or are you just guessing at it ?
Results.
U know u have it right with ur vertical groups on the target at long range.
 
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So you are just guessing and you have nothing other than a target to backup all your comments that the OP and myself are doing it wrong ?
Good grief buddy
Do u want to shoot well or argue?
Do what u want. Maybe the OP isn't as hard headed and will try to learn something.
See ya.
 
Good grief buddy
Do u want to shoot well or argue?
Do what u want. Maybe the OP isn't as hard headed and will try to learn something.
See ya.
No offense intended but First off I'm not your Buddy, I'm here to help folks in any way that I can , So for you to tell the OP to trash his brass and buy a machine and that I am absolutely wrong when you really have no idea what your even doing other than your following instructions and have a really nice target and good numbers on your chrono is really impressive to say the least , I'm going to make this as short as possible, I have the good fortune to be in the position where I can test hardness levels and I have done extensive test's over the years and I can tell you that the torch and socket method done correctly which is a dark room heated to soft glow yields 67-72 HV, new brass averages 63-75 HV depending on what brand, I'm sure your high dollar machine is doing a fine job but is not necessary to provide the correct quality annealed brass, It's not that hard to do, It's folks like you that think you have to have all this high dollar equipment to shoot well and it's not the case at all, Seems to me your not here to help at all, I'll agree it's very nice to have but not necessary at all, I hope the OP did learn something from this, That he is doing a fine job and his brass will be just fine, No need to throw it away and start over, for what its worth you can do it by hand if you don't have a socket
 
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Please see picture. I am getting this small dent on resizing my once fired brass which I also annealed. I used tempilac to time how long I should anneal but I also noticed some of the pieces of brass starting to faint glow orange so I think I went too long. I checked my die and there is nothing inside causing the dents when sizing and not all the pieces are doing this. Im thinking the case neck wall is collapsing because it is too soft. Are these no longer safe to use? This would be a total bummer as I did about 75 pieces this way. Thanks....
Look great to me a dent from too much lube is all! Choot em all is fine.
 
Some of you may laugh, but I have switched to STP. Put a little on a cloth, run your fingers through it, and roll your cases in your fingers. Believe me, a little dab will do ya. It cleans up great, and dosent build up in the dies.
I can hear the snickers now.
Not getting off of the OP's picture, it does appear to be lube dents, but if the brass is in fact over annealed, the resizer can actually crush the brass, and cause it to kink, when you attempt to resize, after annealing. I ran into that when I first started doing it, and realized I had gotten it TOO HOT. When you have hydraulics going on, and weak brass, kinks happen. All the best!
I used STP for years, on an RCBS pad, and never got dents. When I ran out of it, I bought RCBS Caselube, and got a few dents.
 
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