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Cooling a barrel 🤔

Man am I behind the times!!??!! Back in "The Day", when out prairie dog, or ground squirrel busting, going through 200-400 rounds per day, per gun, we shot until the point of impact started changing. {usually 10-20 rounds in summer} Then open the action and switch guns. On "dog patches", that might be 15 mins. or 30.
 
I'll shoot 5 in a row of .223, maybe four in a row of "standard" type chamberings, then only two or three of magnums. I use a baterry powered "chamber chiller". A guy in Austin makes them. Small, robust and effective. I don't need to worry about too much heat in the winters here in Colorado, the summers however…
I'm very impressed with this gadget based on what I've read on his website and have a couple of questions.

How loud is it when it's running? I use electronic ear muffs when I shoot so I can hear and yet protect what little is left of my hearing from further damage and the sound of a loud fan would probably be very annoying.

What is the approximate battery life of the AA batteries with continuous use?

Thanks.....
 
Whitches brew?????
 
I've always done the shoot and clean for 20-25 rds and then go to 3 shot groups and clean for 20-25 rds. This has been for factory barrels and has worked fairly well over the years. I do this even with used rifles that I wasn't sure of the round count and/or abuse. Did it help? Not sure as I've never done a "scientific as found, as left" scenario. After this "break-in" period I just go straight in to serious load development.
The best or easiest barrel was a Savage 112, 6.5-284 Norma. The very first 3 shots (and 3 shot group) was a .3" group. It just got better with more shooting and more cleaning.
The worst or hardest barrel was a Remington Sendero, .300WinMag. It hovered between 1.0-2.0" for 100-150 shots. I was thinking I had a lemon but once it started it ran .5" MOA with everything, until I traded it off.
For the custom barrels, I follow the mfg's directions. Shilen, Pac-Nor and Lilja all have their respective directions. Lothar Walther said no break in is necessary as their barrels are hand lapped before leaving.

For cooling barrels; I have used wet/damp rags, from ambient temp. bottled water. A couple years ago I put a 12v mattress pump together with various hoses from a local hardware. Total cost, IIRC, was less than $40.

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I attach the respective Hornady modified cases in the hoses for the particular rifle(s) I'm shooting that day. With this setup I can cool two barrels while I'm in the bed of the truck shooting another one, or two. If I only have one barrel to cool, I just stick a fired case in one of the tubes.

I use one of these air pumps. I have an MTM plastic bore guide (cost about $8). I removed the back of the bore guide (plastic ring), and attached the plastic tubing from the pump to the bore guide. The bore guide stays in the chamber really well, and I sometimes bring a small ice chest with the plastic frozen ice packs inside the ice chest. I put the air pump into the ice chest which makes the air blowing into the chamber/barrel area cooler than ambient air which could be near 100*. Cools the barrel really well.
 
Along this same line, (hope I I didn't miss it here), for standard target shooting or dawg shooting, (excluding rapid-fire), what hot barrel temperatures near the breech have some of you seen or recorded? I've always just depended on my hand.
I know that I can hold 200° F but I've seen several barrels that I couldn't hold. (I too have seen them so hot that you could see the bullet exiting but I'm not talking about that) Thanks!
 
like I said I am not a fan of cooling hot steel fast your barrel probably isn't hot enough to damage it by rapidly cooling it. But the cold wet rag before you start sounds like a good idea am thinking I'll get the wife to sew an old towel so it slips over the barrel then leave it on while shooting it should keep the barrel cool and I won't need a mirage shield then ?
 
like I said I am not a fan of cooling hot steel fast your barrel probably isn't hot enough to damage it by rapidly cooling it. But the cold wet rag before you start sounds like a good idea am thinking I'll get the wife to sew an old towel so it slips over the barrel then leave it on while shooting it should keep the barrel cool and I won't need a mirage shield then ?
You may be on to something here....might just get rid of mirage.
 
wind powered
 

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These work really well, I have a couple of them on my match barrels and F class rifles. Had to slap one on my 28 nosler proof barrel because it was heating up so fast after 3 shots. Best part is you'll know what the temp is outside!
What is exactly are those temperature strips called and what kind of shop would I find them in please
 
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CO2 cooling system: Fitting a ball valve is all is needed. A 20lb tank is minimum. The hose should be tapered at the chamber end for ease of sliding it into position. The CO2 is released with low flow. It only takes 20 - 30 seconds to reach ambient temp unless the barrel is quite hot. Feel the barrel is approaching close to the same temp at the scope, the CO2 is turned off. It will continue to cool from inside out. Many at the range have adopted this system. Need a bore guide for the uses. (Run your tubing from the CO2 tank into an un-ported Delrin bore bore guide for ease of application. This was copied from another location. Just where I don't remember.
 

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