Converting 308 brass to 6.5 creedmoor? anyone try this? suggestions please.

[Locknload]

Supposedly the Cr is based on the 30 IHMSA which in turn is based on the 300 Savage with the shoulder set back to reduce the capacity for use in an XP-100. Why no one mentioned that there was a 6.5 IHMSA I have no idea. But if you can find Savage brass, like 300 or 25 the job would be simple with no neck turning.
Ed

 

[300jcc]

Converting 308 to 6.5creed can be done I guess, but I'd like some fine details. I have questions like.
How long to trim the 308?
What brand of brass works?
Does this require neck turning?
Does this require aneling?
Any other steps missing not mentioned.
I have a good lot of federal, Hornady, and Lapua brass to try with.

I'm the guy who's silly enough to actually do this and document the process(which started in about 2010). I wrote a paper on it and shared it on another forum...but I can't find it at this moment. I used .308 Palma (SRP) Lapua and I still use this brass for my hunting loads because it's so thick I can use less powder, and making it was so painful that I can't stomach using it in a match for fear of losing a stick. Here are the steps as best I remember. If I find the full paper I wrote, I'll send it to you.
Steps -
-Anneal brass to where the Creedmoor shoulder WILL be(ie set flame lower than the .308 shoulder)
-Using a Slightly shortened Lee 7mm-08 FL die, bump shoulder back to within about .020" of final shoulder dimension (3.559" on my SP/Hornady OAL Gauge)Note-I can't remember how much I turned off - but I know I used a very tough grade of carbide to do it - maybe .050"?)
-Using the Hornady Match Grade bushing/bump die with no bushing and with an expander measuring .267, bump the shoulders to final length(*expander is .267 to match a reamer & mandrel I made for my neck turner).
-ream case necks (K&M turners can do both in one step)
-turn case necks
-trim
-Use Whidden Hydraulic form die to pop the body/shoulder out for snug bolt closure
-re-measure and then neck size for desired tension.
-Fireform

forgive me that I don't have all of my measurements noted. The actual expanders/reamers don't matter so much as they work together to keep the fit of the turning mandrel(s) a snug slip-fit (they don't wiggle on mandrel). I use the Hornady paste lube (cause I got it free) on my turning mandrels and One shot for all case sizing.

The theory goes - Expand, then neck turn to relieve the donuts; or, FL size and then ream to get rid of the donuts. I did both. SDs on these are such that I don't weight sort them anymore.

I know that some guys have simply run their brass through a Creedmoor die and trimmed - and they say they work fine. It might for them but that has not been my experience. I got tired of Hornady's magical neck thickness and hardness qualities...as in not the same and too soft at the case head.

My process solved the problem...and then Lapua REALLY solved the problem by making 6 and 6.5 Creedmoor SRP brass! Honestly, the neck thickness is essentially identical to mine.

All the case spinning was done with a Sinclair power case holder/adapter, and I reamed either on a modified Lyman case trimmer (made PTFE bushing to use my .267 chucking reamer) OR on a Wilson trimmer with same modification; and I do like the Wilson's results a tad better. Trimming was done on a Giraud and boy is that handy!
I don't have any more boxes of .308 Palma or I'd take pics and post at different stages.
Oh - and you CAN use 22-250 cases, but they will be a tad short.
Good luck!

 

[cetacea]

Thanks... sounds like I'm gunna have to check into neck turning and annealing...which I'm shure is not time or effort effective... but I like to tinker....and doubt I'll reload 308... I just shoot factory hunting loads for hunting and keep the brass...so why not try to use it... even if it's just for plinking...I guess I could sell 308 brass and buy quality creedmoor... but there is time and effort in that too
I do plan on buying some Lapua brass for precision hunting loads in a ar10. That opens a whole other can of worms... large primer or small primer?

Strongly consider neck turning. Made a huge difference on my 6mm/284W

 

[25WSM]

Don't use the small primer pocket on hunting loads. In cold weather the small primer is very inconsistent. I shoot 1000yd and used the creed last yr. In the first matches couldn't keep the small primers in tune. They all go bang but the speeds are erratic. Switched to large primers and all was good. Even lapua released a statement saying it was meant for target shooters. Shep

 

[300jcc]

Don't use the small primer pocket on hunting loads. In cold weather the small primer is very inconsistent. I shoot 1000yd and used the creed last yr. In the first matches couldn't keep the small primers in tune. They all go bang but the speeds are erratic. Switched to large primers and all was good. Even lapua released a statement saying it was meant for target shooters. Shep

Yes - good point. Test for yourself in re: SRP. I don't get much sub-zero in Central TX. I haven't noticed any diff. in the winters we have have vs summers other than a few fps diff, but YMMV. Process works for either, so be safe if you're gonna be in other than reasonable conditions.

And I forgot to mention that the 6.5 Creedmoor parent case is the .30 TC

 

[Locknload]

Ok, think I see what has happened, folks get confused with different case IDs. Example I was just reading an article about Witchita that said the 30 IHMSA was the same as the 30 International which is dead wrong. So it is not surprising that with the close association of Thompson Center and the IHMSA for many years that the 30 TC might incorrectly be thought to be, or the same as, the 30 IHMSA, which it is not at all.
Ed

 

[hubb]

Converting 308 to 6.5creed can be done I guess, but I'd like some fine details. I have questions like.
How long to trim the 308?
What brand of brass works?
Does this require neck turning?
Does this require aneling?
Any other steps missing not mentioned.
I have a good lot of federal, Hornady, and Lapua brass to try with.

The Creedmoor case is made from a .300TC not a .308. I have a few years back read that there was a way but I would just stick with buying the brass and you will be better off for it.

 

[Kaptoe]

308 isn't the same parent case

Buy the brass!

 

[blitzfike]

I think everyone knows it's not worth the time, but some of us just need to tinker! Nothing wrong with that! I have never done Creedmoor from .308, but I do like to keep notes on what cases can be made from others.......I have played with making .260 brass from LC 308 brass, just so I knew how should the need every come up. I think it's easier to figure out when you don't NEED to, and have time to waste, than when Everybody is in the same boat if brass is not available........ The below is info that I have "Stole from the Web" just so I'd have notes as an option! Once again, I have not done this, but if I did, it's where I'd start! Hope this helps, and good luck!
PS....I think .250 Savage, or 22-250 would be easier...??

Convert .308 brass to Creedmore:
Deprime/Clean
Trim to 1.920"
Redding 6.5 CM type S die without the bushing using ample sizing wax.
Trim to 1.910
Turn necks to Spec thickness
Size on SMALL BASE 6.5 CM die.
Final trim

Edit to add: I think I would for sure anneal when sizing this much....

Anneal after necking down to 6.5. Annealing before results in about a 50 percent failure on military brass. Definitely need to turn the necks and use the small base die to FL resize them. I did about a hundred cases when I couldn't get factory brass. I much prefer to use factory brass for this. If you don't turn the necks and have a tight throat as I do, they won't chamber after being loaded. Brass was checked prior to loading for proper fit to chamber. I ended up pulling bullets and turning necks to get them into spec. GO for it, everyone needs to experience converting brass at some time.

 

[blitzfike]

Would u anneal before or after resizing?

After in my experience. I had about a 50 percent failure rate if I annealed before. That was with military brass, mostly lake city. Anneal after for best results.

 

[Cold Trigger Finger]

Supposedly the Cr is based on the 30 IHMSA which in turn is based on the 300 Savage with the shoulder set back to reduce the capacity for use in an XP-100. Why no one mentioned that there was a 6.5 IHMSA I have no idea. But if you can find Savage brass, like 300 or 25 the job would be simple with no neck turning.
Ed

30 TC is the parent case for the Creed.
Simplest way to make Creed brass from something else is 22/250.
I load it with 18 gr Unique , 1 cc of corn cob media and a twist of tp in the neck. Chamber and fire. Instant 6.5 Creedmoor brass that Never needs trimming.

 

[Sflutes]

I ran a federal 308 case through my FL hornady die the other day. The neck definitely need to be turned and nothing crushed, it was once fired and not annealed.
I have a Dillon progressive loader and the problem I had was the die can't be lowered enough to bump the shoulder far enough back.
I was going to pick up an rcbs 308 die and have it shortened to set the shoulder first then run it through the 6.5 die. I looked for 30 TC dies, but they are all on backorder.

I have a neck Turner on its way so maybe ill get a 308 die and experiment with it.
A single stage press may have more flexibility with adjusting the sizing die.