Contender: Getting the 7-30 Waters going….

No. Best not to mess with the internals. Two set screws, one in front of the trigger is weight. One behind is over travel. Set front one out until hammer will not cock. Screw it in until it does. Adjust inward for more poundage. Set the back one to stop over travel. Makes a world of difference in trigger feel. Of course the front screw could be screwed the other way, haven't had enough coffee this morning for proper brain function.
You are not cutting the spring
 

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I remember shooting with Wayne vanswoll in early 90's. He had a contender in 7-30 he was going to write about. First shot it flipped back hitting him in the face cutting his nose with the sight. He kinda laughed and said he did not expect that.
 
I've shot encores, stronger version frame of the contender. Loaded with a 30-06. Wasn't a lot of fun to shoot, but it never flew up and bit me. Sounds like he wasn't used to shooting hand guns that would recoil and held it with a loose grip. Bet it was fun to watch. I love seeing the outdoor writers get surprised by a gun they are unsure about. I hunted for quite a while with a encore handgun with a14 inch barrel in 7-08. Used 120 nosler ballistic tips. Heck of a muzzle blast. Takes a lot of concentration to shoot them well. Arthritis in my wrist has me shooting the .357 ,.223 and .22 LR now. At 75 to 80 yards the .357 is a flat out killer. I can hit further but that is my max yardage on deer.
 
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No. Best not to mess with the internals. Two set screws, one in front of the trigger is weight. One behind is over travel. Set front one out until hammer will not cock. Screw it in until it does. Adjust inward for more poundage. Set the back one to stop over travel. Makes a world of difference in trigger feel. Of course the front screw could be screwed the other way, haven't had enough coffee this morning for proper brain function.
What does that upper screw do? How does it reduce the weight of pull?
 
What does that upper screw do? How does it reduce the weight of pull?
Its the weight adjustment screw. Back it out until the hammer will not cock. You can pull it back but it won't catch. Then slowly turn it back in half turn at a time until hammer will stay back. The trigger will be very light at that point. Adjust inward until you are happy with the trigger pull. Be careful, it can be set scary light. I'm sure there is a you tube video about it. The screw behind the trigger is the over travel setting. Screw it inward towards the trigger. Once it touches back it off until you can get the hammer to fall. You're all set then. Be aware that they will move due to vibration. I don't advise thread locker on them. Just watch out for them. One more thing, if your unhappy with the weight of the top of the shoe adjustment. You can disassemble them and remove one coil of the spring at a time. Unless you have the tools and the ability, I'd use a gun smith. The set screw I'm talking about adjusts the creep more than the weight. But most of the older contenders have great triggers.
 
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Ok, it's been a while sense I played with the trigger on mine. Here is how it works, because just did it. Screw it in until the hammer will not cock. Back out until you are happy with the trigger. At one full turn mine is 1#11ozs. Hope this helps you.
 
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