3 shot groups need to be 5 and cold bore or not the first better be where it supposed to go
Cold bore and a warning shot are the same thing
Cold bore and a warning shot are the same thing
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Next time you go out, cycle through the first round and then shoot the next two. See what you get. Rinse and repeat. Be smart ... video yourself ... analyze. Is your cheek to stock-weld changing in the video. Don't lie to yourself as it only takes a little to matter a lot. Post the video here if you can.
Is your rifle bedded?
Is there any damage to the crown?
What are the two types of ammo you're shooting?
When you cleaned, did you eyeball it or did you borescope it?
Buckskinner
Well-Known Member
I also swab with 99% isopropyl and then graphite. Pretty much eliminates first shot issue.
I've heard of moly/graphite lubing the barrel after cleaning to eliminate or minimize fouling shots being needed. In this thread people mention iso alcohol as well to remove the lube. I'm not that keen on that idea due to increased rust potential. I'm curious if the video you saw and/or your practice is to remove the oil lube before adding graphite?
Buckskinner
Well-Known Member
I do not put any oil in my barrels unless I'm not going to be shooting it for several months. And even then it is very sparingly and cleared with 99% isopropyl before shooting.
Appreciate the suggestion and think videoing would be a valuable coaching tool.
- The rifle is glass-bedded.
- The rifle barrel was replaced in February by Christensen Arms (CA). CA did say that the previous barrel was the reason for accuracy issues. The current barrel has around 60 rounds on it.
- The ammo that has been used is Hornady ELD-X 212gr (recommended by Christensen Arms). Multiple different ammo brands/grains have been tried with similar results: Hornady ELD-M 225gr, Hornady Outfitter 190gr, Berger Elite Hunter 205gr, Berger Hybrid Target 215gr, Berger Elite Hunter 245gr, and Barnes LRX 208gr.**BRG3883 also had Copper Creek Cartridge Co. hand load Hornady ELD-X 212gr, Berger EH 205gr, Berger HT 215gr, and Berger EH 245gr.
- When he cleans it he mainly looks at the color of the patches coming out. If nothing is on the patch, he assumes it is clean. When he looks down the barrel it "appears" clean. Defiantly may look into getting a borescope.
Shane Lindsey
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 13, 2010
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Looks like the Christensen test shots are doing the same as being described by OP.
Is the stock glass bedded or the lug bedded by Christensen?
I have a Ridgeline (6.5 PRC) that I got the lighter FFT stock for. I bedded the lug, but I tend to do it a bit thicker than what I have seen Christensen do. Maybe worth a look.
Another option, maybe if handloading get crazy deep with seating depth and see if it pulls that one in. I did this with mine after trying to load close to the lands and it just didn't like it.
- The stock is bedded. The stock was bedded by a recommended gunsmith in our area.
- We are not handloading ourselves but have paid for Copper Creek Cartridge Co. to do a "Stage 1 Development Pack" where we select our projectile and brass type. Then they send us 25 total rounds each of the five rounds has a different charge weight. This had minimal success. They do offer a "Stage 2 Development Pack" where you measure your internal rifle chamber dimensions with a straight OAL gauge, a modified case in the same cartridge of your rifle, the same projectile you are shooting in your Pack, and a set of calipers. We have not done a stage 2 pack for this rifle because we didn't have great success with stage 1. I should also mention that we used Copper Creek Cartridge Co. for another rifle and had great success.
Whew ... tough one.
The thread is already filled with good suggestions.
As for the borescope, it really makes a difference if you're cleaning down to bare metal with the intent of prepping the bore. You'll also see for yourself what products work ... what they clean and what they won't. And, if you can't get one fast enough:
Check Your Crown’s Condition with a Q-Tip « Daily Bulletin
The last half-inch or so of your barrel is absolutely critical. Any damage (or abnormal wear) near the crown will cause a significant drop-off in accuracy. Here are ways you can check the end of your barrel, using a common Q-Tip.
Insert a Q-Tip into your barrel and it will reflect enough light so that you can get a real good look at the last half inch of rifling and the crown of your barrel.
340 in Va
Well-Known Member
Same here, watched the cleaning video with Speedy. Put a few bb's in bottle to help shake it up.
I feel the same about alcohol and have never used it but by no means am I saying it's bad. My routine is to clean down to bare metal, verifying with a bore scope and running several dry patches followed up with a graphite patch and two dry patches. I them put them in the safe muzzle down and there are good to go. It may be a few days or a couple of months and the cold bore shot has been right where it was left off.
I'd agree with you 3 shot groups aren't telling us much, but the title of the thread is cold bore flyers. The user is trying to figure out how to eliminate or reduce the first round flyers.
The rifle is accurate after the first round. It can hit POA after it has fired one round. Any suggestions on how to get the first round to hit POA?
