Cold bore blues.

Cleaned my243 couple weeks ago. First couple of groups from a cold clean barrel were not so good! After that fourth and fifth got tighter . Let it cool s bit and proceeded to shoot two, one hole 3 shot groups. I typically like about 20 shoots down the tube before I get serious about how accurate groups are!
 
Generally I think a large coldbore issue comes down to a couple things, something mechanical is seating at the first round, this can vary from bedding, optics mounts to the optic. The second thing is cold bore shooter, the nut on the trigger, it takes a lot of practice and developing a check list when getting serious about cold bore shooting. Bag firmness and hand position, setting parallax, head position then trigger control and follow through.
Dry firing is a critical component for me to settle down and have my system locked down ready to go on the first round.
If I can't fix a cold bore issue and it's in the barrel I scrap it, I will not endure a cold bore shot out of the normal group.
 
Generally I think a large coldbore issue comes down to a couple things, something mechanical is seating at the first round, this can vary from bedding, optics mounts to the optic. The second thing is cold bore shooter, the nut on the trigger, it takes a lot of practice and developing a check list when getting serious about cold bore shooting. Bag firmness and hand position, setting parallax, head position then trigger control and follow through.
Dry firing is a critical component for me to settle down and have my system locked down ready to go on the first round.
If I can't fix a cold bore issue and it's in the barrel I scrap it, I will not endure a cold bore shot out of the normal group.

This step gets overlooked far too often!!!
 
I shoot only cut rifling barrels in competition, and some of them take up to 8 shots to settle down until they group well from a clean barrel.
That seems a simple fouling issue.
For cold bore accuracy you need to prevent leaving any petroleum products in the bore.
It needs to be dry fouling/dry pre-fouling.

That doesn't mean cleaning a bore less. It means cleaning out -the cleaning solvents, and dry pre-fouling the bore. You can do this with a bunch of shooting after cleaning, or with your cleaning plan.
 
Generally I think a large coldbore issue comes down to a couple things, something mechanical is seating at the first round, this can vary from bedding, optics mounts to the optic. The second thing is cold bore shooter, the nut on the trigger, it takes a lot of practice and developing a check list when getting serious about cold bore shooting. Bag firmness and hand position, setting parallax, head position then trigger control and follow through.
Dry firing is a critical component for me to settle down and have my system locked down ready to go on the first round.
If I can't fix a cold bore issue and it's in the barrel I scrap it, I will not endure a cold bore shot out of the normal group.
I agree 100%. My button rifled stock barreled Savage consistently shoots to the same place with a cold fouled bore. It will place the next 2 right in there with it. After that it will start to drift up and right as it gets warmer. It's a pencil thin factory sporter profile though, I can't really complain. I also know the bedding, and everything on the rifle is solid. If the first shot is off in my rifle it's the nut behind the butt. (Or I just cleaned it.)
 
I am leaning more towards it being my fault. I hadn't shot that gun in about a month.
 
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