375fan
Well-Known Member
Same here.
Clean cold MOI
- Thread starter James DeTorre
- Start date
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BrentM
Well-Known Member
Never ever take a stripped clean barrel in the field. I'll pull carbon every 50-100 and leave copper until the rifle doesn't shoot. However handlapped barrels usually don't copper foul much so it's a non event.
only thing I do is run a dry patch or a dry snake if the rifle sat for more then a week with carbon. Carbon changes and often the first shot is a little off. A quick swipe and it's good to go. I never worry about cold bore shots with this method and my cold bore tests are almost always 1000 yards.
only thing I do is run a dry patch or a dry snake if the rifle sat for more then a week with carbon. Carbon changes and often the first shot is a little off. A quick swipe and it's good to go. I never worry about cold bore shots with this method and my cold bore tests are almost always 1000 yards.
FWIW, get a custom barrel. Of the ones I own there is no cold bore vs warm bore variance. I also fall into the camp of cleaning less and shoot more...and when I do clean my goal isn't to take it back to bare metal. I use KG products- I run a patch of carbon remover down the bore, scrub with a nylon brush ~a dozen times, run a dry patch, run a patch of copper solvent, scrub with a nylon brush ~1-2 dozen times, run a dry patch, run an slightly oiled patch, and then 2-3 dry patches and call it a day. I expect my 1st shot to be in the group but to be certain I fire 3-5 rounds and call it good until it tells me it needs to be cleaned. I tried HBN, and this is only my experience, but I thought it was huge waste of time for multiple reasons and actually hurt my accuracy. I wouldn't use that stuff.
Here's a group I shot last week at ~525. Rifle has only had the carbon removed in the last ~300 rounds.
Here's a group I shot last week at ~525. Rifle has only had the carbon removed in the last ~300 rounds.
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Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
Wow, don't know what cartridge you are shooting, I have a couple of really overbore ones that the carbon in the throat will pull the bullets when you try and unload in less than 50 rds. If you don't clean it. My .224tth is one of the worst. I think a 28N has it beat though with RE33. This is with good barrels, one is a Proof, one is a Shilen, and one is a Hart.
That's with a 6mm Comp Match, 6.5 Creed, and 7mm Rem Mag. Here's a picture of the quick group I literally just shot to reconfirm zero with the 6.5 Creed. Only 3 shots at 100 but it's pretty telling. I also don't jam any of my loads into the lands because they are all hunting rifles. I start at 15-20 thou off and chase them when the groups start to open up...could be why I don't see what you're seeing.
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Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
Makes sense, faster powders and smaller capacity cartridges. I never had this issue with RE22, 7828, or faster powders, or smaller capacity cartridges. May only be relevant with really overbore stuff and the slowest powders. I do know when I switched to 8133 in the 28 the problem either went away or was greatly diminished.
That's actually very interesting. What all are you shooting?
milo-2
Well-Known Member
Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
Maybe so. I've been playing with it for several years. I do not sell it so I don't have a dog in the fight other than to say I've had very good luck with it after a long learning process. It is a lot of trouble to do right.
milo-2
Well-Known Member
Lol, not directed at you. I probably ran moly longer that you've messed with HBN, so I was poking fun at myself as well.
James DeTorre
Well-Known Member
Good advice from the group. CA Ridgeline 280ai groups MOA with fouled barrel and factory muzzle break. Thanks guys
Orange Dust have you ever had a bullet move in the case with HBN?
That stuff is slicker than snot on glass.I put it in bearing grease and you can really see the difference but worry about it being so slick it allows the bullet to move under recoil.
If it works for you then that's the important part.
I too have switched to KG products for cleaning James DeTorre and that's why I am confident in my poi maintenance.After a dozen shots then that's another story but 1st shot in cold barrel is fine as long as the barrel is clean.
But that's just me.Others may see it differently.I like you rifle choice!
Old Rooster
That stuff is slicker than snot on glass.I put it in bearing grease and you can really see the difference but worry about it being so slick it allows the bullet to move under recoil.
If it works for you then that's the important part.
I too have switched to KG products for cleaning James DeTorre and that's why I am confident in my poi maintenance.After a dozen shots then that's another story but 1st shot in cold barrel is fine as long as the barrel is clean.
But that's just me.Others may see it differently.I like you rifle choice!
Old Rooster
Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
No, but it does bring up one of the things i like about it. No cold weld. Important to me for magnum hunting rifles. I can load up a couple hundred rounds and it will last awhile in those. Every round is the same start to finish. I do use .002 neck tension instead of the more common .001.might even go more with a compressed load.They stay put in my RUM so id say GTG
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WildRose
Well-Known Member
I"ve gone the opposite route using the Machine gunners Lube as my protectant for all my barrels.
The chemistry is complex but you can read about it here:
https://www.sprinco.com/mgl.html
I've been using it for about six years now in all of my rifles and all I can say is that it seems to do exactly what they claim it will.
You will never have to worry about it building up in your bore either if you simply apply it on a wet patch then run a dry patch or two to remove the excess.
