Christensen Arms pressure issues

When I called CA, I asked if reloads would void the warranty. The rep told me it wouldn't provided they weren't hot enough to cause damage. Not sure how that could be determined if warranty work was needed. As it stands I've got an accurate hunting rifle despite the bumpy start up.
 
When I called CA, I asked if reloads would void the warranty. The rep told me it wouldn't provided they weren't hot enough to cause damage. Not sure how that could be determined if warranty work was needed. As it stands I've got an accurate hunting rifle despite the bumpy start up.
Just for info I'm loading for two different 6.5 prcs one a Bartlein and the other Proof carbon 25 in and 26 in 124 gr hammer and123 gr hammer absolute easy 3300 and 3400 fps with n165 with a cci 250 .004 neck tension and crimp I'm up too 3458 with the absolute think I have a little more in it hope too finish at 3500 fps . You might need more neck tension too get pressured up
 
RL26 will get you some more speed but those numbers you posted with the powders you mentioned doesn't seem that far off. Is that staball 6.5 you were trying? I've got some and it didn't yield as much velocity as I thought it would. RL 17 was a good bit faster before hitting pressure, and that made no sense to me, being that staball is supposedly slower burning than RL17. I'm not recommending RL17, I was just checking it as a comparison.
 
RL26 will get you some more speed but those numbers you posted with the powders you mentioned doesn't seem that far off. Is that staball 6.5 you were trying? I've got some and it didn't yield as much velocity as I thought it would. RL 17 was a good bit faster before hitting pressure, and that made no sense to me, being that staball is supposedly slower burning than RL17. I'm not recommending RL17, I was just checking it as a comparison.
I did use the Staball 6.5. I was following a load posted in the 123 Absolute Hammer thread on here. It did produce some decent speeds but I hit pressure a lot sooner than the original poster. I'm guessing the issue for me is the tighter chamber in my Mesa. So far, 4831sc has produce the most accurate load at around 3080fps. That was right n the middle of a node that spanned about 4grs. in the ladder. Everything after 3080fps got slower until I was out of the node
 
Has anyone else been getting pressure signs at lower powder charges with their Christensen Arms rifles with factory barrels? I just bought at Mesa in 6.5 prc and am unable to reach the speeds I want because I keep getting pressure signs before I get to max powder charge. I am using the 123 Absolute Hammers. I want to hit between 3200 and 3300 fps and am having no luck. I've tried some of the loads posted on the Absolute Hammer thread and can't seem to get the speeds. I've tried Staball, RL22, 4831sc, and just last night was able to order some RL26. I haven't been able to get over 3213fps and that was with heavy bolt lift. I've also tried 215M and CCI 200 primers. The 4831sc produced numbers similar to the load data for the 127LRX on Barnes website. A friend of mine was getting pressure signs with the factory Hornady eldm's in his Ridgeline. Is this the way CA makes their barrels or am I doing something wrong? Thanks everyone

PS- I still love the gun and plan on keeping it if I can't reach my speeds. In that case I will adapt.
I have answered this many times over the years. If you are sure your formula is good and there's nothing in your processing that might be responsible. Check that gun's headspace and chamber right %^*+#ing now. In my experience Christensen sometimes treats headspace and chambering tolerances as a suggestion rather than a rule.
 
I have a new 6.5CM Ridgeline that shows ejector swipe marks with Hornady factory 140gr HP and 143 ELDx Precision Hunter ammo shooting suppressed. Only 20 rounds down the tube, and accuracy at 200 yds is not inspiring yet. I let it get too hot this year before completing break-in, so I'll put some more factory ammo down the pipe unsuppressed before making any conclusions. Contacted CA and was told their chambers are minimum spec and to clean the barrel more (had cleaned to bare metal between every shot for the first 10, then after each 5 for the next 10). They didn't seem to have an answer as to why the gun would exhibit pressure with factory ammo.
 
Thought I would throw it out there, but I have been dealing with a problem Christensen Arms ridgeline also, and think I have identified the problem. Mine is 280AI, I did complete break-in as they recommended and then started tinkering to come up with a good mono bullet combo. My results were all over the board with being inconsistent and seeing pressure signs very early (well below listed max). I've been reloading for years for numerous rifles and have never experienced such issues. I had gone through everything on the rifle including changing the scope twice trying to identify the problem. I also regularly cleaned rifle (every 20-30 rounds), but was ready to throw it off a cliff. I finally decide it must be the dreaded carbon ring. Not having a bore scope, I took it to a local smith that did, and found the problem. The last 12-14" of the bore was completely covered in copper, and no carbon ring at all. It took 2 days of soaking and scrubbing on the barrel to finally get perfectly clean patches.
Next trip to the range my first 6 groups (18 rounds) were all very good, all between 3/8 - 3/4. Then things started to open up again, so I scrubbed again with copper remover and it immediately started shooting well again. I have never owned a gun that was this bad for copper fowling. I'm guessing that it is just a very rough (sh**y) barrel. I guess on the bright side, I know if I keep it very clean it will shoot to my expectations.

Wanted to let everyone know, as I would not have known without looking in the barrel, and yes I have already ordered my own borescope. hope this helps someone.
 
Thought I would throw it out there, but I have been dealing with a problem Christensen Arms ridgeline also, and think I have identified the problem. Mine is 280AI, I did complete break-in as they recommended and then started tinkering to come up with a good mono bullet combo. My results were all over the board with being inconsistent and seeing pressure signs very early (well below listed max). I've been reloading for years for numerous rifles and have never experienced such issues. I had gone through everything on the rifle including changing the scope twice trying to identify the problem. I also regularly cleaned rifle (every 20-30 rounds), but was ready to throw it off a cliff. I finally decide it must be the dreaded carbon ring. Not having a bore scope, I took it to a local smith that did, and found the problem. The last 12-14" of the bore was completely covered in copper, and no carbon ring at all. It took 2 days of soaking and scrubbing on the barrel to finally get perfectly clean patches.
Next trip to the range my first 6 groups (18 rounds) were all very good, all between 3/8 - 3/4. Then things started to open up again, so I scrubbed again with copper remover and it immediately started shooting well again. I have never owned a gun that was this bad for copper fowling. I'm guessing that it is just a very rough (sh**y) barrel. I guess on the bright side, I know if I keep it very clean it will shoot to my expectations.

Wanted to let everyone know, as I would not have known without looking in the barrel, and yes I have already ordered my own borescope. hope this helps someone.
Mine coppered up bad during single shot break it, took a little JB paste on a patch and basically polished the barrel, have done a few time since then also after cleaning
 
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