Checking Headspace Question

[CadillacCowboy]

If you set back the barrel .002 what will it change?

Headspace. Also - stamped lettering location on the barrel, possible marred cerakote, bedding fit due to a non-pinned lug, stock inletting (I know that's getting picky). I wouldn't have a problem with it being done, if I was confident it would be done correctly. Function is more important than form to me, but I prefer to have both. Have to set back enough to allow fluting to index upward, so recutting the chamber would be necessary. Like I said, we aren't seeing eye to eye on the situation and it's not worth getting into a square off over one or two thou. I'm a stickler for detail, so if it wasn't done to exact specs on the second go-round, it would drive me to insanity. I'm better off controlling the issue with loading adjustments and accepting that I have a brass eater. In 30 years or so I will burn the barrel out and need a new one anyway. It's not ideal, but life is too short.

 

[CadillacCowboy]

Jesus, Bigngreen nailed it on the absolute freaking head. Why anyone would waste time on here instead of going to a gunsmith is beyond me. Stop wasting your time asking what anyone online would do, and go talk to your smith. It's really that simple.

I never asked what anyone would do. Read carefully. I've asked for technical clarifications and have received some. I appreciate those who are offering to share their technical knowledge. I'm not going back to the guy who can't drill a hole. It is the most important part of the job and he's already proven his lack of ability. I did ask him his opinion and he confirmed my suspicions. His level of atttention to detail isn't what I look for in a "smith". Therefore he's not my smith.

Now if anyone can tell me any tricks to getting the roll pin in without taking a full lumberjack swing, that would be helpful.

 

[bigngreen]

Aim for the opposite hole and knock it in, as long as your not letting it tip to the middle it'll go, they can be a pain until you get used to just smacking them in, I have fat fingers and struggle to hold them in line. You can crush one side just a little with pliers so it'll start and stand there while you aim.

Your brass will not suffer at all, set your die like any other round and rock on.

 

[bigngreen]

This has prompted a little more research, there is no SAAMI spec for a no go guage, the only specs are a min and Max which are .010 apart on the data sheet. Researching a little farther and found out different manufactures set there no go anywhere from .004 to 006 from the min spec. I have seen this in different manufactures and I have started only using one guage that matches the make of the reamers so the specs track all the way through the process.
I found a couple of highly regarded Smith's who set headspace to a slight drag on the no go and clean drop on go, this is in spec as the no go seems to just be a reference point. Also many Smith's set headspace to a lot of brass so your not firing out brass to match headspace, I know I've seen lots of WSM brass fire out over .004 when headspace at 0. Then again you have Smith's who set headspace to the dies, I have seen also, if you set a 28 Nosler 0 on a go guage a Redding die won't touch the shoulder, set it to a slip on the no go and your perfect and in SAAMI spec.
Personally I set my chambers .001-002 using brass shim stock but I've started giving them more room than trying to be right at 0 because at every point there is a tolerance and setting up too tight seems to cause more end user issues unless dies are also custom.

 

[shortgrass]

This has prompted a little more research, there is no SAAMI spec for a no go guage, the only specs are a min and Max which are .010 apart on the data sheet. Researching a little farther and found out different manufactures set there no go anywhere from .004 to 006 from the min spec. I have seen this in different manufactures and I have started only using one guage that matches the make of the reamers so the specs track all the way through the process.
I found a couple of highly regarded Smith's who set headspace to a slight drag on the no go and clean drop on go, this is in spec as the no go seems to just be a reference point. Also many Smith's set headspace to a lot of brass so your not firing out brass to match headspace, I know I've seen lots of WSM brass fire out over .004 when headspace at 0. Then again you have Smith's who set headspace to the dies, I have seen also, if you set a 28 Nosler 0 on a go guage a Redding die won't touch the shoulder, set it to a slip on the no go and your perfect and in SAAMI spec.
Personally I set my chambers .001-002 using brass shim stock but I've started giving them more room than trying to be right at 0 because at every point there is a tolerance and setting up too tight seems to cause more end user issues unless dies are also custom.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ good post![/B On most hunting rifles I 'aim' for the middle of the excepted tolerance. Too many 'issues' with 0 headspacing. Too much difference in brass from one manufacturer to the next, and sometimes from lot to lot within the same manufactuer. Too many who get all their information off the net.......

 

[J E Custom]

I never asked what anyone would do. Read carefully. I've asked for technical clarifications and have received some. I appreciate those who are offering to share their technical knowledge. I'm not going back to the guy who can't drill a hole. It is the most important part of the job and he's already proven his lack of ability. I did ask him his opinion and he confirmed my suspicions. His level of atttention to detail isn't what I look for in a "smith". Therefore he's not my smith.

Now if anyone can tell me any tricks to getting the roll pin in without taking a full lumberjack swing, that would be helpful.

I feel your pain.

So here are your options as I see them.

Don't take the rifle back to someone that cant set head space !

If you cant fix the problem, I recommend that you buy some new brass and fire form using the minimum load data and that should size but not stretch the web of the case (Use the lighter bullets for this)

Then re set your dies just enough to chamber without forcing the loaded rounds.

If you don't bump the shoulder after the fire forming, the brass should last fairly normal.

As far as getting the roll pin back in the bolt = look at the end of the bolt and you will see that the ejector plunger hole is off set to the end of the roll pin holes. start the roll pin in the the farthest hole and tap it in just short of the plunger hole (IF you go to far just use a punch of the correct size and tap it back until the plunger will go in.

Next insert the plunger spring and line up the flat spot on the plunger with the roll pin and push it in. you can use an empty case under the extractor to hold it flush with the bolt face.

With the plunger pushed in with the proper alignment and while holding it with the case, you can tap it in with a small mallet until it is about/almost flush with the bolt. then you can remove the empty case and finish taping the roll pin in just below flush (On both sides). using the punch.

Try the roll pin first and if it needs a slight chamfer on the starting end that can be done with a file or a buffer/grinder wheel.

This is a little awkward but you can do it.

Hope this helps

J E CUSTOM

 

[J E Custom]

I never asked what anyone would do. Read carefully. I've asked for technical clarifications and have received some. I appreciate those who are offering to share their technical knowledge. I'm not going back to the guy who can't drill a hole. It is the most important part of the job and he's already proven his lack of ability. I did ask him his opinion and he confirmed my suspicions. His level of atttention to detail isn't what I look for in a "smith". Therefore he's not my smith.

Now if anyone can tell me any tricks to getting the roll pin in without taking a full lumberjack swing, that would be helpful.

This is a great tool for removing and installing ejector plungers if you do more than one or two.

SINCLAIR INTERNATIONAL SINCLAIR REMINGTON EJECTOR SPRING TOOL | Brownells

I now use one and it makes the task much easier.

J E CUSTOM

 

[J E Custom]

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