Chambering a rifle at home

[birdiemc]

.108 is what I have written down, but I will double check.
I bought the action with bolt from a forum member, he had it for a build then changed direction. That's about all I know.

 

[ThrdKllr]

I just checked my old factory Savage bolt head and it measures.1085.

 

[birdiemc]

I just measured my bolt I got .1083,
Measured 2 more savage bolts, .1092 and .1086
I know those are factory stock...I bought them both from cabelas myself.

 

[ThrdKllr]

How much go gauge protrusion did you wind up with? If you set it at .114-.120 you should be good. If you've got much more than that you can hand ream it if you think you need to. That's how all short chambered barrels are head spaced.

 

[birdiemc]

Just found out about my 3rd graders music concert tonight, so wont be able to check today, but I'll get it apart and see hopefully tomorrow.

 

[tobnpr]

https://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?322-Barrel-Chamber-Depth-Verification

 

[birdiemc]

https://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?322-Barrel-Chamber-Depth-Verification

Measure the depth of the bolt face. Now add .005-.006". That's how far the GO should stick out of the chamber when using a nut. When the nut is tightened, it'll add a few more thou gap between the end of the bolt and the end of the barrel depending on barrel to receiver thread fit. The opposite is true when a shoulder is used instead of a nut, the gap would be reduced. Make sure you have enough gap that the extractor can engage. You don't want the end of the barrel and bolt to contact each other at any time. It's basic mechanics, don't make it complicated.

Doing it the way Shortgrass outlines makes much more sense because you are taking actual measurements from your actual components and setting the distance from the bolt to the barrel, the way referenced in that article is just a generic catch all method, but what shortgrass outlines is in line with Hinnant's book recommending .005 gap.
I'm sure many have done it the way referenced in that linked article but I figure if I'm going through all the trouble of trying to learn to do this myself I should do it the best and most accurately as I can. Lots of comments from lots of Smith's lead me to believe that it probably doesnt make a whole lot of difference, but then again I just read a comment from JE Custom where he spoke about tightening up the tolerances has resulted in more accurate rifles. Under. 010 group sizes...and I think it's pretty well accepted around here that he is somebody worth listening to.

 

[tobnpr]

Not going to make a bit of difference on a factory action, but no reason not to do it if you don't mind taking the extra time.

I haven't chambered many nutted Savage barrels for customers, but when I have they are done to spec, in case the owner decides to sell the barrel.

Adhering to specs, means the barrel will work with any Savage, regardless of minor differences in boltface-to-rim or receiver face to lug abutments measurements.

 

[ThrdKllr]

@tobnpr,
I think you hit the nail on the head. The spec was set so it could be used on any Savage action without having to be setback for one with a slightly deeper bolt face.

 

[birdiemc]

How much go gauge protrusion did you wind up with? If you set it at .114-.120 you should be good. If you've got much more than that you can hand ream it if you think you need to. That's how all short chambered barrels are head spaced.

I finally got this thing back apart and measured my go gauge protrusion, I got .115, so that gives me .007 clearance between the bolt and the barrel, which I'm perfectly ok with. That's. 002 more than I thought I had from all the crazy measuring and math I did, but probably better that way.

 

[ThrdKllr]

You're good to go. A little load work and you should have a bug holer. Probably do even better when you get it broke in.

 

[birdiemc]

Yeah I been working on breaking it in trying what JE Custom said in a recent thread, shoot, clean, shoot, clean, over magnetospeed and watch for velocity to level out. So far I'm still seeing 10-15 fps per shot fired. Only about 10 shots so far...I never have enough uninterrupted time to just sit down and do it all at once. Got 40 cases prepped, so ready to start playing just as soon as that velocity stabilizes.

 

[ThrdKllr]

Keep a log of the average velocities and you should be able to see it level off. ES may get better but that's usually your loading procedures and components. It should gain some velocity and then level off but I wouldn't wait to start the load development. If you find a good load and it gets out of the node after it settles, you can usually adjust the charge up or down a couple of tenths and be back in it. No use in wasting barrel life or components.

 

[birdiemc]

Keep a log of the average velocities and you should be able to see it level off. ES may get better but that's usually your loading procedures and components. It should gain some velocity and then level off but I wouldn't wait to start the load development. If you find a good load and it gets out of the node after it settles, you can usually adjust the charge up or down a couple of tenths and be back in it. No use in wasting barrel life or components.

Definitely planning on keeping a log with this barrel. It's not something I've done before, but want to start.
As to load development while running the break in and checking velocity, how will I know if the velocity change is due to powder increase or just the barrel speeding up? I would surely like to do all simultaneously, but don't fully understand how it works