70oldsracer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2016
- Messages
- 118
Very nice machines guys, I wish I had the room.
Chambering a rifle at home
- Thread starter birdiemc
- Start date
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keithcandler
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- Joined
- Jan 30, 2005
- Messages
- 650
NO! Those actually work! You've obviously NEVER chambered a rifle
Seriously, the bones of a dead black cat are SO much better!
birdiemc
Well-Known Member
How you like that 6jaw?
Danny1788
Well-Known Member
6 jaw set tru & copper ring is the only way to go on a manual lathe. You will never change the chuck again, And it keeps clamping pressure even an consistent on the barrel.
Not the only way to go
My 4 jaw with copper or aluminum ring does alright toobirdiemc
Well-Known Member
I finally got that chamber cut that I mentioned. It's for a savage action and I toyed with the idea of ditching the barrel nut, but was scared since it's my first time to ever do this and the barrel nut provides a little margin for error on threading depth. But I have to say, next one I do is definitely going to be shouldered instead.
Can I throw out a few numbers just to verify I got everything right? I had Hinnant's book on the table, Gritters book, my phone with articles pulled up, drawings I had done, as much resources as I could get.
For my final reaming/fitting, I threaded on the barrel nut, lug and action, bottomed out onto the bolt head, then tightened down the nut against the action. Then held the nut in place while unthreading the action enough to get the go gauge in. Tightened the action down against the go gauge, checking the feel of the bolt, then once I had it where I liked it, checked the gap between the barrel nut and the lug with a feeler gauge. Got .042, so cut the chamber another .037 deep to maintain a .005 gap between the ends of the bolt and barrel. Sound correct? It sure makes sense in my head.
Can I throw out a few numbers just to verify I got everything right? I had Hinnant's book on the table, Gritters book, my phone with articles pulled up, drawings I had done, as much resources as I could get.
For my final reaming/fitting, I threaded on the barrel nut, lug and action, bottomed out onto the bolt head, then tightened down the nut against the action. Then held the nut in place while unthreading the action enough to get the go gauge in. Tightened the action down against the go gauge, checking the feel of the bolt, then once I had it where I liked it, checked the gap between the barrel nut and the lug with a feeler gauge. Got .042, so cut the chamber another .037 deep to maintain a .005 gap between the ends of the bolt and barrel. Sound correct? It sure makes sense in my head.
.005" is a pretty small gap for a hunting rifle. I use .005" on benchrest stuff and strictly range stuff, but prefer .010"+ for hunting rigs since there is always something wanting into the action. Just my 2 cents which ain't much. Get some target pics. Nice work
To be honest....I think the four jaw is more versatile...
The adjust tru is more difficult to get that last .001 out of...at least for me it is. I've had the thing completely apart, all new screws...etc..etc...
At 12" it is quite heavy to swap back and forth so the 4 jaw stays on more than not....just my take and believe me that's really not much...
birdiemc
Well-Known Member
Interesting...I haven't had too much trouble dialing in my 4jaw to under .0005, I dont have a .0001 dti so anything under .0005 is just speculation... never can achieve perfect zero though.
I agree completely....I can get the 4 jaw to my expectations without too much trouble.
My adjust tru is a good condition Buck so I feel I have one of the best but when I tighten the bolts going thru the face of the chuck after I get it "dialed in" it always seems to move +/- .001 or .002.....very frustrating.
That's the reason I took it all apart, cleaned, installed new bolts, skim cut the surfaces to clean it up as new and still fight the movement on final tightening....
With the 4 jaw, as you know, you dial as you tighten so no extra steps...hence my comments. I'm definitely no expert...far from it, but I find the four jaw very capable and easier for me to get a part dialed in.
Unless, one wants to drill an offset hole in a flat piece of aluminum (I know could be done on the mill)
but I miss the scroll of the 6 jaw when initial install of most other parts...i.e barrels and such.
I used a live center to turn the contour after I recut the center. Repositioned closer to the chuck for reaming.
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birdiemc
Well-Known Member
Today I hope to get the crown cut, then get this thing into a stock...i plan to make a stock specifically for it down the road, but for now just going to yank my .223 out of the factory plastic it came in and use that to hold onto this bad boy so I can satisfy my goal of firing a round before the year ends.
