Carbon Rings and Build-Up in Barrels

[Patriot007]

This is an example of the clean I get using Wipe out, Bore tech, and CLR...Factory bbl, .rsbhunter

Sweet!!!

 

[Far North Hunter]

I have been using CLR as my first process to get the carbon out of the tube prior to using boretec products to tackle the copper.
This past week I was cleaning my muzzle loader in prep for opener. To my dismay I discovered I failed to clean following last years hunt! it was a mess and the breach plug was very sad. Here's my point. I have been using a product called Krud Kutter on a multitude of cleaning tasks. The container states it is safe for stainless.
Why not, ran a patch through the bore. I was impressed at what a great job it was doing. After another soaked patch, the third came out clean. The stainless breach plug soaked for a couple minutes looks like brand new. I followed that up with a couple patches of IPA gas line antifreeze to neutralize and clean any residue.
I haven't tried it on blueing, that will happen the next few days.
Long story short I got on to CLR from Chris's posts, now I'm going to give Krud Kutter further testing.

 

[new2mud]

I have been using CLR as my first process to get the carbon out of the tube prior to using boretec products to tackle the copper.
This past week I was cleaning my muzzle loader in prep for opener. To my dismay I discovered I failed to clean following last years hunt! it was a mess and the breach plug was very sad. Here's my point. I have been using a product called Krud Kutter on a multitude of cleaning tasks. The container states it is safe for stainless.
Why not, ran a patch through the bore. I was impressed at what a great job it was doing. After another soaked patch, the third came out clean. The stainless breach plug soaked for a couple minutes looks like brand new. I followed that up with a couple patches of IPA gas line antifreeze to neutralize and clean any residue.
I haven't tried it on blueing, that will happen the next few days.
Long story short I got on to CLR from Chris's posts, now I'm going to give Krud Kutter further testing.

Always nice to hear of new methods. Keep us posted!

 

[Rardoin]

N570 makes the carbon buildup remarkably faster than the other powders I use. So much faster that I am working on Reloder 23, 26 and H1000 loads. I'm gonna give up some velocity but its gonna be worth it. When I get it worked out, gonna sell a pot load of N570/565. I can chip it off of my brake. Just sayin

Hmmm... expect the same with RL-23. In the .284 Win with a threaded tuner I also had very hard caked on carbon on the muzzle that I chipped off with a nylon pot scraper. Dirty powder but it shot well. Consider N160 in place of RL-23 if you can get some. It burns clean and cool; the throat erosion was significantly slower than RL23 and the precision was about the same.

 

[Patriot007]

I have been using CLR as my first process to get the carbon out of the tube prior to using boretec products to tackle the copper.
This past week I was cleaning my muzzle loader in prep for opener. To my dismay I discovered I failed to clean following last years hunt! it was a mess and the breach plug was very sad. Here's my point. I have been using a product called Krud Kutter on a multitude of cleaning tasks. The container states it is safe for stainless.
Why not, ran a patch through the bore. I was impressed at what a great job it was doing. After another soaked patch, the third came out clean. The stainless breach plug soaked for a couple minutes looks like brand new. I followed that up with a couple patches of IPA gas line antifreeze to neutralize and clean any residue.
I haven't tried it on blueing, that will happen the next few days.
Long story short I got on to CLR from Chris's posts, now I'm going to give Krud Kutter further testing.

Hey,, If the Krudd Kutter doesn't take the bluing off, Please lets us know. It sounds Like some GOOD stuff.
Thank You.

 

[WahooYahoo]

Hmmm... expect the same with RL-23. In the .284 Win with a threaded tuner I also had very hard caked on carbon on the muzzle that I chipped off with a nylon pot scraper. Dirty powder but it shot well. Consider N160 in place of RL-23 if you can get some. It burns clean and cool; the throat erosion was significantly slower than RL23 and the precision was about the sameGreat to know. Thank you Sir

 

[Tommyrexx]

CLR works like a champ on carbon, but heed the warning about finish removal. I soaked a nitrided brake that was very dirty in CLR and ended up with a mottled copper color brake. Works great on carbon rings though and it took every bit of carbon off my brake with zero scrubbing. Luckily I have a good friend who cerakoted it for me.