Wish me luck. Here it is in the mold with the epoxy poured. Built an enclosure to heat it to 100f to get rid of bubbles and aid the curing process. The epoxy is discolored from different batches with and without fillers.
Wish me luck. Here it is in the mold with the epoxy poured. Built an enclosure to heat it to 100f to get rid of bubbles and aid the curing process. The epoxy is discolored from different batches with and without fillers.
View attachment 227907View attachment 227908
Yeah we watched it when we first started up. We also saw what gunwerks was doing and our buddy used to work at Christensen arms. So we looked at a bunch of processes. We decided the hand layup was the best for us at the risk level. As for seams You just wrap a piece around the seams on the foam if that makes sense. Then you overlap and create I believe it's called flashing that has be cutoff. It was getting a stiff enough mold with it closing tight enough that's been are overall issue. It also took us an enternity to make the inletting/chassis area. I will say as a whole the chassis is very cool that we made and functional.
I wish... I might get I to that at some point. I have a printer capable of it, but all the material storage and drying requirements for peek are rediculous. I'd need another $5-7k worth of equipment.Do you by chance print in peek?
I see, I never used the inflatable bladder. We did layup directly to both sides of the mold and then closed it the mold and poured the foam in the butt pad area. But I have no experience with a bladder.Using your 3d printed foam core I understand the overlap and how the seems works perfectly.
I was questioning the seams if doing the the CF layup directly to the 2 piece molds and using an inflatable bladder to finish form it.
Hope to see more of your project soon.
We have been considering printing out entire inlet/chassis whatever you'd prefer to call it in PEEK. We don't know if it would strong enough but like you didn't want to buy the printer needed or go through all the annealing(I think that's what they called it) of it for the strength. Just so much money to find out it won't work.I wish... I might get I to that at some point. I have a printer capable of it, but all the material storage and drying requirements for peek are rediculous. I'd need another $5-7k worth of equipment.
Abs, nylon, and petg have served me pretty well so far. Did you have something specific in mind that would require peek?
We have been considering printing out entire inlet/chassis whatever you'd prefer to call it in PEEK. We don't know if it would strong enough but like you didn't want to buy the printer needed or go through all the annealing(I think that's what they called it) of it for the strength. Just so much money to find out it won't work.
I explained how it is remedied in an earlier post.Using your 3d printed foam core I understand the overlap and how the seems works perfectly.
I was questioning the seams if doing the the CF layup directly to the 2 piece molds and using an inflatable bladder to finish form it.
Hope to see more of your project soon.
if only they had a big hug and kiss emojiSpeaking of 3d printed parts... @Mram10us If something 3d printed would help you figure this out, I'd be happy to print something and send it down. I have a handful of different materials and printer types.
if only they had a big hug and kiss emoji