Can you get by with “Basic” dies?

Morning, it's all a matter precision. I like barnes bullets. the
jump of different of bullets can make a world
of difference in accuracy. I use match precision dies for
the seating depth of different bullets. I normally do not
buy new dies. I purchase the dies from gunbroker at
a reasonable price. the highest I have paid is for a custom
die set for my 340wbee. has the different neck
tension bushings. justme gbot tum
 
Dies are a pretty simple machine. As long as they meet specs. and are made with quality materials, they all do the same thing and should last forever. Micrometer seating dies are very nice and will cost more, but are not necessary.
 
I've been reloading for at least the last 15 years, with basic dies, never had issues. I load both pistol and rifle. All my rifles shoot MOA or better. The only thing I do, is build my rounds one at a time, no progressive presses for me.
 
What a great topic because it affects every single one of us who handload. Some topics impact a few elite shooters and while I learn from most of the topics, we all relate to this one. As with so many who've already posted, I'm one of the "nuts behind the butt plate" who is always trying to improve my accuracy. But the basic equipment I started with (RCBS system with an upgraded balance scale) is still allowing me to form my cartridges one at a time because that's the way I shoot them. So measure, load, shoot, and repeat - often.
 
I started reloading later part of the 60 and when I got in BR 70's I started using bushing Wilson and custom. When I started to rebarrel my existing hunting rifles I started using bushing dies and you could get die blanks. I had bushing dies made for my 35 WhelenAI.

Neil Jones been making bushing die long before Redding
https://www.neiljones.com/

Last time I used seater like RCBS was 1993 and I still have all my old dies. Reason I know year we moved from Ft Collins Co To Black Forest Co and those die still packed.
I've got to say this, If I had talent like JE Custom I'd be making my own dies
 
I got by for 30 yearswith basic dies forall my hunting applications out to 500. When I went long range I upgraded because of concentricity. If you're on a budget a simple Lee collet die will help you correct that.
 
Dies are a pretty simple machine. As long as they meet specs. and are made with quality materials, they all do the same thing and should last forever. Micrometer seating dies are very nice and will cost more, but are not necessary.

For my money, the add-on micrometer Seating Stem for Redding Seating dies are worth every penny. The vast majority of my seating dies have been standard redding anyway, so popping for the add-on micrometer seating stem was pretty painless.

To be clear, these stems don't turn your seating die into a competition die, but they make changing seating depths a total piece of cake. Anyone who loads different bullets for a given caliber will benefit more than they might guess. Increasing or decreasing depth is as easy as dialing it in and seating the bullet. Same goes for changing bullet weights or brands. I just keep track of the settings used for each application, dial them in, load a bullet, check it to make sure it's right, and load however many I need.

They beat the hell out of playing with that darn screw and lock nut till you get right. And ya, I know that you can count turns, but that isn't anywhere near as easy as turning a graduated knob.

I bought micrometer heads for all my Redding Seaters and have never looked back.
 
The answer is YES. Some of us have been shooting for 50+years and did fine with the standard dies. In fact in some cases we did very well. Some of us are never satisfied with existing accuracy and want to take advantage of all the new powders and technology to improve even more.

I replace my older dies "Only" if i think I will see an improvement. (An improvement is anything that will reduce the group size or brass life)

As recommended by others, If accuracy is acceptable don't mess with it. New dies require a learning curve and can get frustrating at times so hang on to the old die set and don't strip them for parts until you are satisfied
with the new set.

J E CUSTOM
yes i agree, we always try for better accuracy and that usually means whidden dies and k&M reloading stuff
 
You already made your decision and as usual I'm slow trying to help. For anyone else.....save your money....use standard dies....shoot more!!
I just used some evil standard RCBS 223 dies to find what was wrong with a buddy's load. I laughed when I saw the 83 stamped on the die. Those same dies have loaded for at least a dozen factory as in affordable $2-500 rifles with .3" groups. The same dies can't make loads for a full custom (edit 223) HB shoot even close to .5" groups. The "custom" as a factory 223 HB shot .25-.3" groups for a decade until I drank the cool internet grape kool aid and paid for a "custom".
 
Last edited:
A couple of tricks I used-still use with regular RCBS Dies.
I use good brass,
Clean Dies
I turn the necks to hopefully get concentricity and neck tenson with the FL sizing die.
When I use the Seating die I will turn the case 90, 90, 90, 90 while gently pushing the bullet into the case to get more uniform bullet to case concentricity.
Always shot great groups with doing it that way and still do.
I do use Bushing Dies and Match Seater which makes me feel like they shoot better, but have some god old RCBS dies for some cartridges for hunting and they shoot<1/2" MOA.
When reloading you need good uniform case capacity, same powder load & Primer, then very important to have the same neck tension & CONCENTRICITY relating to the case & bullet.
 
Well, I'm basically gonna say what the others have said. I have generally bought basic Hornady die sets used/new for each caliber.

I have loaded a lot of good ammo on those. Sometimes you can't get to a goal. Then you have to find out what is stopping you. Sometimes it is neck tension, oversizing, runout, etc. With more expensive dies, sometimes these things get a little better, sometimes they don't. Then you try other things.

I guess I would focus on measuring results tools before "better" dies. Calipers, micrometers, run out tool, chrony, case length tools, etc.
 

Recent Posts

Top