Can a 300 RUM be converted to 338 edge

losthelegend

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
69
Location
Rock Bottom WY
I am very new to this long range game! I am looking to build a long range elk hunting rifle for canyon to canyon shots or long high plains desert shots. I currently own a Remington 700 Police 300RUM. What does it require to change to a 338 Edge? Is it possible? How long of a barrel should I get? What kind of break? What twist? What should I expect the whole conversion to cost? I am open minded and any suggestions would be appreciated. Are there other calibers I should be considering? What would I gain by changing to a 338 edge? Are there any stock suggestions(currently have HS Precision Stock). Again, I am a novice and am looking for all the knowledge that I can! Thanks again for all you advice!
 
What kind of accuracy do you get out of the rifle currently? The 300 RUM will get you quite a bit of performance for long range shooting out to 1K even on elk. It might be worth wearing that barrel out first and getting lots of practice before going the 338 route. The conversion is just a new barrel and magazine box if you want to feed them, bedding job and trigger work/replacement. 1Kilobuck or so in work.
 
lazylabs is right, the 300RUM loaded with 210grain bullets going 2800fps carries sufficient energy to kill an elk at 800 yards. If you can push the the bullet at 3000fps, then you can kill an elk at ~1k yards. So before you go down the road of swapping your barrel, determine whether or not your current rifle is sufficiently accurate enough and whether its exterior ballistics are able to take an elk at the range you wish.

If the answer to both of these questions is no, then rebarreling to 338Edge is a good alternative. It is as simple as rebarreling which you can have done for ~$600.

lazylabs is also right though, that with your rebarreling you will probably want to have some additional work done at the same time. This would bring your cost to ~$1kilobuck (love that term!).

For more specifics on your rebarrel job....

Barrel Length: 28 to 32 (a non-shooting consideration here is getting the rifle to fit in a case. 28" of barrel is about the most you will get in a 'regular' case)

Twist Rate: 1:10 as this will stabilize the 300grain bullets

Muzzle Brake: personally, I like the Muscle Brake from Center Shot Rifles Center Shot Rifles - Products / Sales - Muzzle Brakes. There are other good brakes from Defensive Edge, Fat Bastard, Pain Killer

What do you gain by converting from 300RUM to 338Edge: more energy downrange and less wind deflection. You can easily see the differences in exertior ballistics by using JBM's online calculators at JBM - Calculations

Stock: depends on the use for the rifle. If you intend to carry the gun, the more 'traditional' style stocks will work nicely (HS Precision is a good stock). If you are planning on a dedicated longrange/prone rig, I would ecourage you to look at McMillan A5, A3; Manners T2. These are top of the line stocks. If you are a bit more $$ sensitive, look at Bell & Carlson and laminates at Stocky's New Rifle Stocks - America's Gunstock Specialist!

As a point of comparison, here's my 300RUM that is a dedicated longrange rig:

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-300rum-mcr-70809/#post494570
 
I've built quite a few rifles chambered in 338 Edge. All have performed beyond expectation.

The Remington 700 Long action with a Magnum Bolt face will work. Most are drawn to shooting the 300 grain Sierra Bullets with this cartridge. To achieve a seating depth that'll still facilitate using the case capacity, it requires some machine work on the action. The magazine box needs to be modified. Wyatt makes a longer box that completes the modification.

Beyond that, it's pretty straight forward. If you plan to shoot 300's, a 9.5 ROT barrel is the better choice. If you stick to 250's then a 1:10 is fine. Nothing wrong with shooting 250's from a 1:9.5 either if you want to dabble with the 300's as well. Just know it'll need to be throated in the chamber for the heavier bullets.

If you build a medium weight gun (15-17lbs) and equip it with a brake, it'll be a baby to shoot. Recently I completed one like this for elk and long range "plinking" on a Stiller action that falls into this weight class. It's tame enough that the owner's mother shoots the snot out of it with no complaints. She lays down some impressive groups with it too.

Choose a stock that you like. If you want to do some of this on your own at home then a drop in chassis stock isn't a bad choice. I personally don't care for them, but there's no reason no to use one. It'll shoot just fine.

This is a fairly big cartridge with a lot of steam behind the bullet. To take advantage of the powder charge and get the best velocity, I'd suggest a barrel length of at least 28". 30" is even better.

Have fun and good luck.

C.
 
I've used both the 338 Edge and more currently a 300RUM. Loaded with 200gr Accubonds at 3200+ (30" bbl) the 300 RUM is more than capable of killing an elk at 1000 yds very handily. If as stated above, if your 300 RUM shoots well enough, it is more than capable of doing what you want, of course if you just want to play with another caliber, that's all the reason one needs to change it.
 
I've built quite a few rifles chambered in 338 Edge. All have performed beyond expectation.

The Remington 700 Long action with a Magnum Bolt face will work. Most are drawn to shooting the 300 grain Sierra Bullets with this cartridge. To achieve a seating depth that'll still facilitate using the case capacity, it requires some machine work on the action. The magazine box needs to be modified. Wyatt makes a longer box that completes the modification.

Beyond that, it's pretty straight forward. If you plan to shoot 300's, a 9.5 ROT barrel is the better choice. If you stick to 250's then a 1:10 is fine. Nothing wrong with shooting 250's from a 1:9.5 either if you want to dabble with the 300's as well. Just know it'll need to be throated in the chamber for the heavier bullets.

If you build a medium weight gun (15-17lbs) and equip it with a brake, it'll be a baby to shoot. Recently I completed one like this for elk and long range "plinking" on a Stiller action that falls into this weight class. It's tame enough that the owner's mother shoots the snot out of it with no complaints. She lays down some impressive groups with it too.

Choose a stock that you like. If you want to do some of this on your own at home then a drop in chassis stock isn't a bad choice. I personally don't care for them, but there's no reason no to use one. It'll shoot just fine.

This is a fairly big cartridge with a lot of steam behind the bullet. To take advantage of the powder charge and get the best velocity, I'd suggest a barrel length of at least 28". 30" is even better.

Have fun and good luck.

C.

Chad,

Did the stiller require additional machining to fit, or is it just the Remington actions? I was under the impression that the predators were set up to accept the wyatts box. Just trying to clarify, as I am getting the itch myself.
 
Chad,

Did the stiller require additional machining to fit, or is it just the Remington actions? I was under the impression that the predators were set up to accept the wyatts box. Just trying to clarify, as I am getting the itch myself.

The Predator comes cut for the Wyatt box and the TAC comes cut for the factory mag box.
 
About a month ago I got a 338Edge, built by Chad Dixon. The rifle was built with a Stiller predator action, 30" Brux barrel and a McMillian A5 stock. Worked up a load for it. 96 grains H1000 pushing the 300SMKs at 2950. Rifle shoots 1" 5 shot groups at 500yds constantly. Haven't shot paper at a 1000yds yet but rings 10" steel plate with ease at 1200yds. I've hunted elk this year but did not see any to shoot at. Very confident that it will do the job just fine. Have not reloaded any 250gr. bulletes as I see no need for them. Have not wieghed the rifle but have shot it without the brake and the recoil is about like a light 30-06.
 
Wouldn't be this one would it??? :)

DSC_0001-1.jpg


DSC_0034.jpg


DSC_0031.jpg


DSC_0047.jpg


DSC_0036.jpg
 
Warning! This thread is more than 13 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top