Caliber choice

[ayers21]

If you stay with your present 300 wsm you could simply upgrade the stock (HS precision/KRG $399), thread the barrel 5/8x24 (depending on the smith $40 to $150), add a break (APA gen2 LB $160), upgrade the optic (Athlon Midas Tac 5-25 or other , this is just an example but for the money and purpose would be a good choice, $850 plus rings, $100 MDT) , add a bi-pod (Harris S-bmr 6-9 $99) and Cerakote the barreled action ($150-250). I think you would have a pretty nice set up.

So I decided to stick with my present 300 wsm, purchased a sig tango 4 6-24 with the standard moa reticle, also planned on going with a bell and Carlson (also considered the HS precision) but now my question is what do you think about the clamp on breaks? and saving the money for smithing to put somewhere else. Have seen several options of clamp on breaks but honestly didn't even know they made them until recently.

 

[FEENIX]

So I decided to stick with my present 300 wsm, purchased a sig tango 4 6-24 with the standard moa reticle, also planned on going with a bell and Carlson (also considered the HS precision) but now my question is what do you think about the clamp on breaks? and saving the money for smithing to put somewhere else. Have seen several options of clamp on breaks but honestly didn't even know they made them until recently.

Good call! There are a few threads here about clamp-on muzzle brakes as well as satisfied end-users. "I" am not a big fan of it. Where in MT are you, and do you have access to a reputable gunsmith? It will cost you an average of $100 to have your barrel threaded. So, it's $100 + the cost of the muzzle brake. You have a wide range of effective muzzle brakes at reasonable/competitive prices to choose from, including self-indexing types. Although one of my .300 WSM sports a radial brake, "I" am also not a big fan of it. The advantage of a self-indexing muzzle brake over the standard and clamp-on is that you can easily use it to any rifle that is threaded the same and rated for caliber/chambering clearance. Good luck!

Ed

 

[Rick Richard]

So I decided to stick with my present 300 wsm, purchased a sig tango 4 6-24 with the standard moa reticle, also planned on going with a bell and Carlson (also considered the HS precision) but now my question is what do you think about the clamp on breaks? and saving the money for smithing to put somewhere else. Have seen several options of clamp on breaks but honestly didn't even know they made them until recently.

You should reconsider your thoughts on the stock. My experience with Bell and Carlson has not been positive. You will be much better satisfied with the HS Precision in my opinion anyway. Good luck.

 

[Paladin300]

So I decided to stick with my present 300 wsm, purchased a sig tango 4 6-24 with the standard moa reticle, also planned on going with a bell and Carlson (also considered the HS precision) but now my question is what do you think about the clamp on breaks? and saving the money for smithing to put somewhere else. Have seen several options of clamp on breaks but honestly didn't even know they made them until recently.

I like the HS stock better than the BC stock but they are very similar for your rifle. Quality on the HS will be a little better for fit and finish but I don't know that you would see any accuracy differences. Whichever one you choose you should see an improvement over your present configuration.

As for the clamp on breaks, I am not a fan. I would have the barrel threaded 5/8x24 and a break installed. That would be your best option. I like the APA LB gen2 (I have a gen 3 as well but not sure the tuning ports are worth the extra cost). The APA LB is an awesome break, but it is extremely laud, deafening if used without hearing protection. I use them on a 300 WM and a 6.5 Creedmoor, both guns are set up identical to each other and honestly you cannot tell which gun you are behind, both can be shot all day with no issues.

A competent gun smith should be able to thread it for you for, as has already been mentioned, around $100 (my local guy, a friend, charges $40, my builder $150). They can also recommend a break for your intended purpose and some manufacture their own which they may include in the price to install at little extra charge. There are tons of break options out there for just about any budget, that work well. We have an OEM here in Alabama that manufactures there own break that is very effective and can be had for around $40. I have several on some ARs and a couple of 308s. I even at one time tried one on my 338, though they are not rated for that. They work fine. I'll post a pick or two of them, nice breaks for the money. My son has a PA break on his 308 I picked it up for about the same money on sale a few years ago. My 308 sports a Sure Fire, threaded for a suppressor which also works well ($90). These are just some option to consider, which ever you choose I am sure you will find it more effective than what you have and a great improvement to your old gun.

I think the Sig scope is a solid choice as well as sticking with your 300 wsm. I don't own a wsm or a weatherby any longer but for your intended purpose they will serve you well. Hope this helps!

 

[Paladin300]

I like the HS stock better than the BC stock but they are very similar for your rifle. Quality on the HS will be a little better for fit and finish but I don't know that you would see any accuracy differences. Whichever one you choose you should see an improvement over your present configuration.

As for the clamp on breaks, I am not a fan. I would have the barrel threaded 5/8x24 and a break installed. That would be your best option. I like the APA LB gen2 (I have a gen 3 as well but not sure the tuning ports are worth the extra cost). The APA LB is an awesome break, but it is extremely laud, deafening if used without hearing protection. I use them on a 300 WM and a 6.5 Creedmoor, both guns are set up identical to each other and honestly you cannot tell which gun you are behind, both can be shot all day with no issues.

A competent gun smith should be able to thread it for you for, as has already been mentioned, around $100 (my local guy, a friend, charges $40, my builder $150). They can also recommend a break for your intended purpose and some manufacture their own which they may include in the price to install at little extra charge. There are tons of break options out there for just about any budget, that work well. We have an OEM here in Alabama that manufactures there own break that is very effective and can be had for around $40. I have several on some ARs and a couple of 308s. I even at one time tried one on my 338, though they are not rated for that. They work fine. I'll post a pick or two of them, nice breaks for the money. My son has a PA break on his 308 I picked it up for about the same money on sale a few years ago. My 308 sports a Sure Fire, threaded for a suppressor which also works well ($90). These are just some option to consider, which ever you choose I am sure you will find it more effective than what you have and a great improvement to your old gun.

I think the Sig scope is a solid choice as well as sticking with your 300 wsm. I don't own a wsm or a weatherby any longer but for your intended purpose they will serve you well. Hope this helps!

APA FB Gen 3 $260
APA LB Gen 2 $160 (my personal favorite)
Precision Armament break (I don't remember the model) $50
The Armory break (2 pics) $40
Dead Air Armament (not Sure Fire, the SF is on an AR) $90
The Armory break (again) manufactured in Pelham, AL (last 3 photos) $40

All of these breaks are extremely good and accurate (meaning they don't affect the accuracy of your gun.)

 

[436]

Just purchased the Sig Tango 4 6-24 in MOA today. Seemed like a good option to throw on my current gun to get started, we'll see how it works out. Thanks everyone.

Ayers21
Good start.

 

[slikmrc]

I put a Witts clamp on brake on a 300 Wby I bought for an eventual 300 PRC rebarrel. The Witts break works great, POI change was minimal. With that being said, If I was going to keep the barrel I would have threaded the barrel.

 

[Orange Dust]

So I decided to stick with my present 300 wsm, purchased a sig tango 4 6-24 with the standard moa reticle, also planned on going with a bell and Carlson (also considered the HS precision) but now my question is what do you think about the clamp on breaks? and saving the money for smithing to put somewhere else. Have seen several options of clamp on breaks but honestly didn't even know they made them until recently.

Good decision. Thread the barrel. Everyone, including me sometimes gets hung up on cartridges. The cartridge you use is meaningless. It is just a means to propel a bullet. The bullet you choose, however, is everything. Choose one that will still expand well at your maximum range, is accurate, and has enough remaining energy at that distance to get the job done. Any cartridge that will push it with enough speed to make this happen will work. Every bullet has a working velocity range. Exceed it in either direction and it will perform poorly. That's why earlier I posted to try the 190gr ABLR. They expand at very low velocity, and have a great BC. I had trouble with them up close in my RUM. I exceeded the threshold on the high end. whatever bullet you choose, you will want one both heavier and sleeker than you might normally use. They retain energy better and have less wind correction usually.

 

[Paladin300]

Good decision. Thread the barrel. Everyone, including me sometimes gets hung up on cartridges. The cartridge you use is meaningless. It is just a means to propel a bullet. The bullet you choose, however, is everything. Choose one that will still expand well at your maximum range, is accurate, and has enough remaining energy at that distance to get the job done. Any cartridge that will push it with enough speed to make this happen will work. Every bullet has a working velocity range. Exceed it in either direction and it will perform poorly. That's why earlier I posted to try the 190gr ABLR. They expand at very low velocity, and have a great BC. I had trouble with them up close in my RUM. I exceeded the threshold on the high end. whatever bullet you choose, you will want one both heavier and sleeker than you might normally use. They retain energy better and have less wind correction usually.

I would second the ABLRs using the 210s in my 300 and 30-378. Excellent bullet but needs to be seated at least .050 off the lands to group well. They don't shoot well if you crowd the lands like a Berger.

 

[Orange Dust]

I would second the ABLRs using the 210s in my 300 and 30-378. Excellent bullet but needs to be seated at least .050 off the lands to group well. They don't shoot well if you crowd the lands like a Berger.

Thats why I suggested the 190's. He ain't got a lot of room.

 

[xsn10s]

Thats why I suggested the 190's. He ain't got a lot of room.

Yeah there are some new 190-195gr tipped bullets out that have higher BC's. Something to explore with the 30-06 and 308 Win also.

 

[baldhunter]

APA FB Gen 3 $260
APA LB Gen 2 $160 (my personal favorite)
Precision Armament break (I don't remember the model) $50
The Armory break (2 pics) $40
Dead Air Armament (not Sure Fire, the SF is on an AR) $90
The Armory break (again) manufactured in Pelham, AL (last 3 photos) $40

All of these breaks are extremely good and accurate (meaning they don't affect the accuracy of your gun.)

Any idea what kind of break this is?It was on a 300 Win Mag I bought and the recoil is unbelievably light with this break.There is no markings on it.

 

[Bull_Mtn]

The .300 WSM is no slouch, esp, with the right load. I have two .300 WSMs (24" and 26" barrel), the 24" is pushing the 215 Berger at 2800 FPS with RL-17. RL-26 gives you more velocity. If you can push it above 2800 FPS, it is a 1KY elk rifle. I am not sure what you mean by your gun is not set-up to reach out accurately. You might need a tweak here and there; who knows, it might be a simple and cost-effective option for now until things settle... and hopefully soon. I got my fingers and toes crossed.

I agree with Feenix, I have a .300 WSM, in an off the shelf, Mod 70 Winchester. A couple of years ago I had a gunsmith bed the action and barrel, install a Gentry brake and adjust the trigger to 3 lb. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I now have a rifle that is pleasant to shoot, and is capable of .5moa groups with my reloads and < moa groups with Federal Terminal Ascent factory loads. I have killed elk out to 670 yds with it. Which is about as far as I feel comfortable shooting anyway.

 

[ayers21]

I like the HS stock better than the BC stock but they are very similar for your rifle. Quality on the HS will be a little better for fit and finish but I don't know that you would see any accuracy differences. Whichever one you choose you should see an improvement over your present configuration.

As for the clamp on breaks, I am not a fan. I would have the barrel threaded 5/8x24 and a break installed. That would be your best option. I like the APA LB gen2 (I have a gen 3 as well but not sure the tuning ports are worth the extra cost). The APA LB is an awesome break, but it is extremely laud, deafening if used without hearing protection. I use them on a 300 WM and a 6.5 Creedmoor, both guns are set up identical to each other and honestly you cannot tell which gun you are behind, both can be shot all day with no issues.

A competent gun smith should be able to thread it for you for, as has already been mentioned, around $100 (my local guy, a friend, charges $40, my builder $150). They can also recommend a break for your intended purpose and some manufacture their own which they may include in the price to install at little extra charge. There are tons of break options out there for just about any budget, that work well. We have an OEM here in Alabama that manufactures there own break that is very effective and can be had for around $40. I have several on some ARs and a couple of 308s. I even at one time tried one on my 338, though they are not rated for that. They work fine. I'll post a pick or two of them, nice breaks for the money. My son has a PA break on his 308 I picked it up for about the same money on sale a few years ago. My 308 sports a Sure Fire, threaded for a suppressor which also works well ($90). These are just some option to consider, which ever you choose I am sure you will find it more effective than what you have and a great improvement to your old gun.

I think the Sig scope is a solid choice as well as sticking with your 300 wsm. I don't own a wsm or a weatherby any longer but for your intended purpose they will serve you well. Hope this helps!

Absolutely thanks man, unfortunately I already ordered the clamp on break, hopefully it will work okay.