• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Caliber change on existing Rem 700

I'm a can guy for sure and I generally I find shooting without them to be uncivilized, I have an Omega and it makes a big difference even on my .270. My .300 barrel is only 22" and I know before threading it they have to face off the crown and my concern is losing more barrel which is why I was pursuing the possibility of a new caliber...

The material machined for the crown is neglible and I doubt you or the game can tell the difference. Threading it and using a muzzle device is definitely the way to go. My .300 WSM is pushing the 215 Berger at 2800 FPS and with muzzle tamer brake it is comparable to that of .308.

Check out the material removed to re-establish the crown.

 
Last edited:
My 30-06 Rem 700 is only 18" long and I am getting 2700 fps with a 180 accubond. It was getting 2800 fps at 22". So about 25 fps per inch. My suppressor has me at 24" oal now.

A lot of times a suppressor gives you a 10-20 fps bump on velocity. So chopping a half inch off your current barrel just seems like a really easy answer in order to utilize your suppressor.
 
Unless you really just want some thing different I'd add on a good recoil pad like a decelerator and/or a recoil reducer.
 
RM06 ~
Would be a shame to do away with your 300 WSM. As a long time 270 and 300 Rum guy I have descovered the trick nitch the 300 WSM fills. Besides the obvious shopping for great brake and pad you might consider actually adding a bit of weight. I am totally convinced that caliber is actually gaining respect and demand as we speak.
Keep us in touch.
 
Ten years ago I purchased a Remington 700 RMEF edition in 300 WSM. I had a gunsmith install and bed a McMillan Ultralight Hunter's Edge stock along with some Talley lightweight scope rings and Leupold VX3. This was to be my primary elk rifle, nice and light, great trigger, excellent bedding work, great to carry around all day however it is real unpleasant to shoot. I don't consider myself to be recoil sensitive but this thing really packs a wallop.

I hunt with a bow for the most part now though I do take pronghorn with my .270 and make my annual application donation for sheep and goat. I've been thinking about converting the 300 to 6.5-284 since it is a short action, has great ballistics and isn't punishing to shoot.

My question is does it make sense to do this? I will need a new bolt and barrel at minimum and obviously someone to do the work as I'm not equipped or capable. Or would it be easier to sell the rifle and buy something else... Your thoughts are appreciated


A really good brake will do wonders for recoil. It's also a lot cheaper than a rebarrel.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I will definitely get the barrel threaded and see where that takes me, in all likelihood I will simply hang my suppressor off the end. I certainly understand and can appreciate the application of a muzzle brake but I absolutely cannot stand them.

I need to get my paws on some dies and start tailoring some loads for this, I salvaged all my brass from the recycle bin the other day.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I will definitely get the barrel threaded and see where that takes me, in all likelihood I will simply hang my suppressor off the end. I certainly understand and can appreciate the application of a muzzle brake but I absolutely cannot stand them.

I need to get my paws on some dies and start tailoring some loads for this, I salvaged all my brass from the recycle bin the other day.
I'm like you I can't stand muzzle brakes. So far recoil does not bother me. My wife is a little recoil sensitive, but a decelerator pad on her .270 Win., she loves it and it is very noticeably less then both my .270 Wins. I new a older guy that used a decelerator pad, muzzle brake, and recoil reducer on a .300RUM, he said the recoil was close to a .243 with all three. He also said the recoil reducer reduced recoil same amount as a muzzle brake. In a few weeks I will be getting a .338 Win. Mag. from my Uncle, he had a recoil reducer installed in it, I had shoot the rifle before he had it installed, so I will get to see how well it works.
 
I thought I would update this thread as I finally got around to having my barrel threaded. I had to get a 9/16"-24 direct thread adapter for my suppressor as my barrel wasn't fat enough to use 5/8"-24. After I reassembled the trigger, stock and scope, it wasn't too far off but it was super windy at the range and I need to get my 200 yard zero dialed in a little tighter.

The change in recoil management is tremendous, the rifle without suppressor is just over 7 lbs and I used to be able to handle about 5 rounds and I would be done. This trip I was disappointed that I only brought 15 rounds as I wanted more. The recoil impulse is a much slower push and is now probably equivalent to a light .270 or robust .243. We have steel targets from 200-500 and they produce a good slap sound with .223 and .270 when shooting suppressed and not competing with rifle blast. Those plates are now ring like gigantic church bells when hit with 180gr bullet moving at speed, it is quite impressive.

Of course there is no free lunch and now my rifle is a pound heavier and the balance point further forward. As a backpack hunter I allow myself a few small luxuries like an insulated steel coffee cup and now a suppressed rifle.
 
Glad to hear how things ended up. The suppressor is a great "fix" on a hard kicking hunting rifle & it seems the extra weight helped get the recoil velocity & force to a more manageable level.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top